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kane_schutzman
Feb 12, 2007, 10:37 PM
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I know there are probably other threads out there about this, but I would be much more comfortable asking questions and getting fresh and up-to-date answers.
My first question will be about gear. What will I need outside of normal sport climbing gear? Also, there are alot of different devices out there. I am looking for the safest and most redundant one to operate. Would this be the Gri, Gri?
Now, is it ok to take repeated falls soloing?
I want to be able to go ground up, because at the place I climb, already having to be at the top to set it up would severely limit the routes I can climb.
I am sure I ll have more,
mainly I want to learn because I can't really find a reliable partner. This would hopefully be used working harder routes that maybe out of my ability.
Thanks,
I know I know, find someone to show me.
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deadhorse
Feb 27, 2007, 8:02 PM
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Yeah, there are a bunch of other threads about this, and MOST of them have up to date info. But the question your asking is usually asked by people that have been rope soloing for awhile- see, lead solo (what you're saying) is a big step away from rope solo. I have done both and I would strongly recommend that you accept that your routes will be limited and only do rope solos, theyre a big enough step up.
The reason solo leading is such a tricky procedure is that you have to anchor the rope to the ground (or close) and then you typically will bring the rest of the rope with you. There are lots and LOTS of ways to f--- this setup and operation up. for rope solos a modified gri gri or cinch is usually a good bet.
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moose_droppings
Feb 27, 2007, 8:29 PM
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If your competent at setting anchors and placing gear, then it should be simple for you to figure out a system for you that will keep you safe in event of a fall.
As for what device to use, that depends on the system that works best for you, but yes, there are a lot of threads with current advice on the different devices used in roped soloing. I use a soloist, and many feel uncomfortable with it. To each their own.
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healyje
Feb 27, 2007, 8:39 PM
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The answer is - it depends on your anchor. You posted this in 'sport climbing' so your anchor at times might be just the first bolt. Probably not a situation where I'd wing with wild abandon. But on a solid anchor and over reasonable terrain that can likely sustain falling without injury, I'll wing soloing as often as belayed. Figure out the climbing part of roped soloing to a fair level of competence before planning on tripping the light fandango on a regular basis.
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redpoint73
Feb 27, 2007, 8:44 PM
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Lots can go wrong when you take a belayer out of the equation. Soloing doesn't seem ideal for pushing grades on sport routes, and I have never once seen someone rope solo on a sport climb.
My advice would be that your time and effort are better spent finding some climbing partners. It might be hard at first, but once you meet one of 2, your groups tends to bloom exponentially. Best part, a good group of climbing pals is a great way to motivate and learn from each other.
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healyje
Feb 27, 2007, 9:18 PM
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redpoint73 wrote: ..I have never once seen someone rope solo on a sport climb.
I've roped soloed a few when I've ended up at sport venues. I once even roped soloed some pitches of PoD in Red Rocks until I was bored out of my wits. It felt as monotonous as climbing an antenna tower so I bailed after a few pitches.
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ihategrigris
Feb 27, 2007, 10:02 PM
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Roped lead-soloing is slow and unsuitable to sport climbing for many reasons, lots of which are mentioned here.
You're best bet would be to aid-solo or sport-solo lead a VERY easy route, then set top ropes on the harder ones to solo on. That being said, I think even roped top-roping would prevent you from really pushing the grades just from all of the non-climbing work required.
If you want to push grades and you can't find a partner, why not just boulder? Wait till you have a reliable partner to push grades with.
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healyje
Feb 27, 2007, 11:20 PM
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ihategrigris wrote: Roped lead-soloing is slow and unsuitable to sport climbing for many reasons, lots of which are mentioned here. You're best bet would be to aid-solo or sport-solo lead a VERY easy route, then set top ropes on the harder ones to solo on. That being said, I think even roped top-roping would prevent you from really pushing the grades just from all of the non-climbing work required. If you want to push grades and you can't find a partner, why not just boulder? Wait till you have a reliable partner to push grades with.
Roped soloing only takes about 2/3's of the time over the same number of pitches climbing with a partner takes - when you have it dialed it's quite fast. There's nothing about sport climbing that is a problem for roped soloing unless the hard moves are off the deck and the first two clips are desperate and supposed to be your anchor. What you can't do quite as easily is dog your way up routes while roped soloing. In general, anchoring on the first bolt or two represents the primary issue; but if you can anchor some other way (tree, rocks at base, etc) then there is no issue. Pushing grades is just a matter of what falls you're willing to entertain. I rope solo pretty close to my regular leading level with a partner, trad or sport, but roped solo free climbing has comprised about 50% of my climbing year in and year out for several decades.
(This post was edited by healyje on Feb 27, 2007, 11:21 PM)
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