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dniemi
Feb 17, 2007, 12:47 AM
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I'm interested in doing solo climbing. I've considered the Silent Partner, but wow, I hate to spend that much just to try it out. I've heard stuff about a clove hitch (with no SP)and stuff, but I do not understand that technique if it is used without aiding. It seems that adjusting a clove hitch while leading would be a huge pain. Does anyone have any good suggesions on how I can stay protected while lead climbing and TP'ing? Also, if anyone has a SP they want to sell, please let me know.
(This post was edited by dniemi on Feb 17, 2007, 12:56 AM)
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dniemi
Feb 17, 2007, 1:15 AM
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The techniques I've seen require a lot of effort, such as using a grigri. I would like to climb as if I'm free soloing with no rope, I don't really want to have to yank on a rope everytime I go to clip in. I'm sure the response is going to be to just buy a SP. If that's the case, then that's what I'll do. Like I said if anyone has one in good condition that they want to sell inexpensive, let me know.
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Deux
Feb 26, 2007, 8:14 PM
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FYI
I have a silent partner and it is by no means simple and akin to free soloing.
Leading with it requires you to haul loads of rope tied into backup knots on your harness; this is required for proper rope feed.
I would not suggest spending the money if you are looking for something simple.
I would not suggest solo climbing if you are looking for something simple.
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Tree_wrangler
Feb 26, 2007, 8:46 PM
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In reply to: It seems that adjusting a clove hitch while leading would be a huge pain. Does anyone have any good suggesions on how I can stay protected while lead climbing
You're right. It is a pain. But there is a way to do it that you might even enjoy.
I beg your pardon if this doesn't make sense the way I describe it, OK?
A clove hitch is essentially two crossed loops with a strand of rope leaving each direction. You can only manipulate one loop at a time, dig?
So, as you move away from your anchor, you begin to run out of slack. Hang out, and pull as much slack as you think you'll need until "next time" out into the loop closest to your slack end of the line (non-anchor side). Hold this bight of rope in your teeth (you're doing this one-handed), and then you can grab the rope leading to the anchor, and pull that slack all the way through. Now you're ready to move again.
What this means, if I didn't confuse you, is that you are constantly climbing with lead fall potential, and you can manipulate the knot one-handed if you're strong and patient. If you need two hands to manipulate your clove (other than teeth), you'll need to clip in or place pro and hang on it while you get organized.
Another way to work this that WOULD take two hands, but is simple...............estimate from the ground how high you want to climb before re-organizing. Tie a butterfly in at that length of rope, clip in, and go. Always clip pro between your tie-in and the anchor, like always.
When you get to the re-organization point, place pro, hang on it, and tie another butterfly into a desireable length of rope. Clip it, and then unclip your first knot. Untie the first knot before dropping the slack. This is the same as the clove-hitch system, but it can't be adjusted "on the fly" to any length.
Be very careful, and practice on easy routes with lots of available protection. You'll need to re-define what your limits are for roped soloing.
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erolls
Feb 26, 2007, 9:33 PM
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Myself, I wouldn't get an SP unless I was going to solo more than anything else. There are so many ways to solo (gri gri, clove hitch, basic or any number of acsenders or combinations there of) If you haven't done it before, get a taste of it first. I solo only when I can't get a partner but just have to climb. I use a modified gri gri w\ a clove back up. Any way you slice it its a lot of work and sometimes you feel like you're dicking with gear and taking small climbing breaks. There's a ton of threads here. Do a search on soloing or self belay. There's much more to it than just choosing a device.
That said, have fun and don't get kilt
-E
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Deux
Feb 26, 2007, 10:02 PM
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There is probably more clearly stated information in another thread, but I thought I'd a few more points that are specific to the SP.
One, you can't use it when the weather is close to freezing as the device may be made useless on a frozen rope, or if water freezes inside of the device.
Two, one of the main benefits of the SP is that it will still catch you if you go head down. If you just want to try soloing you could rig up a chest harness and use a grigri or other comparable device.
Note, do not use an ascender which is not intended to catch falls.
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deadhorse
Feb 27, 2007, 8:16 PM
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the cinch is supposed to work well for this, I'm looking at getting one. You should try rope-solos because they are the closest thing to free-solo (solo) you can get. A modified grigri and chest sling is a pretty solid setup that requires no maintaining while climbing.
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healyje
Feb 27, 2007, 8:48 PM
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First off, there is no way of roped soloing that isn't a pain in the ass. None of them are like free soloing - they're more like leading with bad belayer who is constantly either paying out too much or too little rope.
There are two main grigri mods, removing the triangular tab back by the biner hole so the rope runs easier and drilling a hole for attachment to a chest harness or loop. I've done the tab mod and use the grigri on my belay loop - I very much dislike the chest harness mod. The SP is also too much of a pain in the ass for me. I've recently switched to an Edelrid Eddy and a 9.8mm rope to go with it which, while still a pain, is an improvement over every other device or knot system I've used.
As others have said, please use the search function for "roped soloing" and you'll find a ton of discussion on the topic.
[ Edit: oh, there are no Cinch mods I'm aware of and Trango would very much prefer you not use a Cinch for soloing. ]
(This post was edited by healyje on Feb 27, 2007, 8:50 PM)
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moose_droppings
Feb 27, 2007, 9:07 PM
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Knowing the way your system is set up would be a lot of help in determining what device to use and which way to orientate it. A knot clipped into your harness at intervals works just fine.
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