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acacongua
Feb 26, 2007, 8:24 PM
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I'm currently climbing in the women's anasazi, but I'm curious to know for the ladies climbing hard steep stuff if I should check other shoes. I have a narrow fit so the anasazi fits beautifully, but I'm curious to know if there is a higher performance shoe. I basically started with anasazi and never ventured away.
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gblauer
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Feb 27, 2007, 3:50 AM
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I like Evolvs. They have several womens models and they fit my foot quite well. I usually climb in the "Rockstar" but I do believe they have more aggressive shoes. YOu can email Brian (the owner) and he could tell you more about his shoes and what might work for you.
I used to wear the Anasazi lace up, but, they were too wide for my heel.
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overlord
Feb 27, 2007, 7:37 AM
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evolv talons. the best agressive shoes i have ever tried.
if they fit offcourse
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granite_grrl
Feb 27, 2007, 1:09 PM
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I have a pair of the old 5.10 dragon velcros. Not woman specific, but was narrower than the anasazis. Don't wear them around here, there's nothing that steep that I play on.
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acacongua
Feb 27, 2007, 2:35 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: I have a pair of the old 5.10 dragon velcros. Not woman specific, but was narrower than the anasazis. Don't wear them around here, there's nothing that steep that I play on.
I didn't know dragons came in velcro! My bf wears the lace ups and absolutely loves them.
Has anyone tried FiveTen's ballet slipper (I think it's called Prima)? It's on clearance for ~30 bucks from their site.
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overlord
Feb 27, 2007, 2:43 PM
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at first dragons were velcros, then they were slayed (well, discontinued) only to be reborn as laceups.
its not easy to slay a dragon
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granite_grrl
Feb 27, 2007, 2:50 PM
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acacongua wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I have a pair of the old 5.10 dragon velcros. Not woman specific, but was narrower than the anasazis. Don't wear them around here, there's nothing that steep that I play on. I didn't know dragons came in velcro! My bf wears the lace ups and absolutely loves them. Has anyone tried FiveTen's ballet slipper (I think it's called Prima)? It's on clearance for ~30 bucks from their site.
I got mine at the 5.10 outlet in Cali almost 3 years ago. I think they were already discontinued at that time.
Too bad, pretty nice shoes. Just wish I could get to a place like to use them where they'd really shine.
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acacongua
Feb 27, 2007, 3:38 PM
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Spring break to the Red or Obed. =-)
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granite_grrl
Feb 27, 2007, 3:50 PM
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acacongua wrote: Spring break to the Red or Obed. =-)
Thinking of trying the Red at easter....but I'm weak!!! And I guess I didn't need a better shoe than my anasai velcros for the 5.10s I get pumped out on.
Maybe I should stil bring them along just so I get a chance to use them, even if I don't need to. :P
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jakedatc
Feb 27, 2007, 4:03 PM
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you may wanna try the new Womens Miura narrower and a bit down turned. Testarossas might work too and are built for steep terrain.. my friend has size 2.5's and they fit her
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gblauer
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Feb 27, 2007, 4:47 PM
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acacongua wrote: Has anyone tried FiveTen's ballet slipper (I think it's called Prima)? It's on clearance for ~30 bucks from their site.
A woman boulderer (v6+) in my gym swears by them. But, they are REALLY soft, super sensitive and I highly doubt they would hold up on real rock. I will ask her tomorrow night...
Here is her response regarding the primas:
"I do wear my primas outside. They are good for bouldering (usually) but really bad for crack climbing/trad. It is pretty annoying to have to toe hook in them because the rubber does not go up the front of the shoes too far so that kind of thing hurts. They usually stay on for heel hooks. I do have a pair of moccasyms for all the things that the primas don't do so well.
They have been holding up alright, but they fit me well (post wearing them in). They are an aggressive pair of shoes (arched toe box and not much heal support) so they are ideal for some things and not so great for other applications. "
(This post was edited by gblauer on Feb 28, 2007, 4:30 PM)
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climberterp
Feb 28, 2007, 2:31 AM
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gblauer wrote: acacongua wrote: Has anyone tried FiveTen's ballet slipper (I think it's called Prima)? It's on clearance for ~30 bucks from their site. A woman boulderer (v6+) in my gym swears by them. But, they are REALLY soft, super sensitive and I highly doubt they would hold up on real rock. I will ask her tomorrow night...
yeah, I have some primas but I think they're pretty useless. Super soft, yes, but sensitive.....not so much. Plus you can't heel hook in em. I for one do a lot of heel hooking on steep stuff, I don't think they'd be much good. I've been very happy w/my women's anasazis too, hey, if it ain't broke don't fix it, right? If they work for you, you may as well stick with em!
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noell
Feb 28, 2007, 2:39 AM
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Steep sport climbing shoe:
For the Red and Obed, I LOVE my testarosa's (spelling???). They are aggressive, downturned lace up La sportiva goodness, in which you can healhook OR toe in like a mad woman.
The muira's in my opinion are better on facier climbs than the Red, but good in some crags at the Obed (Tierrany for instance, since you gotta climb the face before you get to the roof).
I just went back to the RRG after a winter hiatous. Man did I miss the RRG!!! Just LOVE it! The Obed is my local crag, let me know if you need any beta!
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noell
Feb 28, 2007, 2:41 AM
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Oh yea, and the prima.. last year I was looking into getting some new shoes and I looked into the prima. Bottom line is that I never found a gal that climbed alot outside that actually wore these shoes. AND I just couldn't see how they'd stay on my feet anyway, there's so little to them.
My advice - keep a look out for the new La Sportiva slipper, that will be in the testarosa last. It'll be snug and downturned and a slipper. Sweet for steep. 
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iamthewallress
Feb 28, 2007, 9:21 AM
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I took up bouldering in the gym this past year and found that I needed a better steep shoe that could head hook too.
Any slipper I tried that didn't cinch down w/ vecro would peel off when heel hooking, and the guys models had too much dead space in the heal to do the deed.
I got the Ladies' Katanas and have been really happy with them. The fit that I get is down turned enough to get good foot tension/stiffness, but not so much that I can't leave them on. W/ that fit, there's no dead space in the heal. My foot is much stronger in these than in smooshier shoes like Mocasyms.
My disclaimer here is that I only do really steep climbing in the gym. Outside it's granite and/or cracks, so not so much need for the steep edging and facey stuff.
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lmcwil
Feb 28, 2007, 3:58 PM
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Well, I dunno- how steep is "Steep"? I climb 9s w/ no problems, get up a lot of 10s, and flail around a bit on 11s.
I absolutely *LOVE* my Mad Rock Flash. that's right, the ugly orange velcro shoes that everybody at the crag wears. the reason they're so popular is that they are the best shoes around, especially for the price.
I tried the Anasazi Southwest and was appalled at the lack of touch-sensitivity. Also the rubber isn't nearly as sticky as the Mad Rocks. I have to admit I haven't tried a whole lot of other shoes, b/c most of the shoes I've tried on hit me too high on the back of my heel. I have never owned a pair of lace-up shoes because 1) i could tell just from trying them on in the store that they wouldn't hold their own on real rock, and 2) it would take too long having to constantly untie and retie between climbs.
I climb almost exclusively outdoors, but when I have climbed in the gym I do fine w/ the Mad Rocks. However, in the gym i have to remind myself to take them off every now and then to give my feet a break.
I'm on my 2nd pair and I'd also like to add that this year's model is more comfortable than my old pair from about 2 years ago. Also don't bother trying to soak them to get rid of the orange color; it won't work and it will actually cause the orange-ness to leach out even more onto your feet.
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bizarrodrinker
Feb 28, 2007, 5:17 PM
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I am not a woman, but do have a very narrow foot and the 5.10 galileos fit like a glove. Especially around my instep which is great. I currently have two pair, one ultra tight fitting (1/2/ size too small) for bouldering and one that fits right for climbing routes.
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acacongua
Feb 28, 2007, 7:55 PM
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lmcwil wrote: Well, I dunno- how steep is "Steep"? I climb 9s w/ no problems, get up a lot of 10s, and flail around a bit on 11s.
Although 9s tend to be more vert, you can have a range of steepness in the 10s but more so in the 11s and up. I guess any where from 20° to 45°.
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acacongua
Feb 28, 2007, 7:57 PM
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noell wrote: Oh yea, and the prima.. last year I was looking into getting some new shoes and I looked into the prima. Bottom line is that I never found a gal that climbed alot outside that actually wore these shoes. AND I just couldn't see how they'd stay on my feet anyway, there's so little to them. My advice - keep a look out for the new La Sportiva slipper, that will be in the testarosa last. It'll be snug and downturned and a slipper. Sweet for steep.
After I posted the question, I used that nifty feature called Search and essentially found that I don't want the Primas. Thanks all for your tips.
I might have to reconsider the testarossas if a slipper is coming out.
Oh, and the weather last weekend was great! When Bodde isn't traveling so much, we'll make it down there to see you guys. I might have to go without him so I can learn roof climbing.
(This post was edited by acacongua on Feb 28, 2007, 8:02 PM)
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