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pazreal
Nov 17, 2003, 9:21 PM
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Registered: Oct 28, 2002
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Is there an updated and recent guidebook for the sport climbing at El Potrero Chico, who wrote it, and where is it available for purchase? I have never been there before and am trying to get some beta to throw together a trip if i could.
Thanks for the help
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junnos
Nov 17, 2003, 9:27 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
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This was discussed already, but to get some beta buy "Mexican Rock". Any good store will have it. Buy a new guidbook when you get there from Tami at Homero's.
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gentry
Nov 18, 2003, 7:51 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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I know about the guidebook and have searched the database on everything about PC but still have a few questions..
How crowded was it around X-mas?
Does the camping/lodging fill up due to crowds?should reservations be made?
are there new routes going up everyday?
is there a new route application process?
Is it pretty easy to find partners?
Are there theft issues?
is there routes to climb when its raining?
did you find the grades to be soft?
Did you have a good time and are you planning on going back?
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junnos
Nov 18, 2003, 8:06 PM
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It does get crowded around X-Mas, but you can always find something out of the crowds. I wouldn't worry about making reservations. Just show up and throw your tent down. I've never had a problem with finding a site. New routes do go up. Not everyday, but I would say about 50-100 routes a year, mostly extentions to already great routes. New route application process? Well for the F.A's , just go up and bolt what you want. The new routes are posted in the Kitcken at Homeros. Finding partners is no problem at all. I will be there for a while by myself and am not worried about it. I went down with my partner for 2 weeks last year and I think we climbed together like 4 times. Theft? Well, there are doosh bags wherever you go, just use your head. Commonly not though. You can climb in damp to rainy weather, just depends how hard you can crank. As for the grades, it depends on who bolted it. I've walked up 12's there, where some 11's shut me down. The place is awsome, especially if you like adventure. A lot of people go down there expecting to just clip bolts for 1,000 feet. Sure, that's how it is, but there is a lot of adventure involved too. TONS of LOOSE stuff, even on the classic routes. There is a lot to climb there, even some really great trad lines. Those will wake you up!
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tripl
Dec 11, 2003, 11:37 AM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2003
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My First forum post - this may be a bit late... Whatever you do down there, get with Tami at Homeros for the latest guidebook (I think it went up to $12 this year). Ask to meet her husband, Magic Ed. He's the one with the long pale-green enclosed truck type vehicle and a small pack of dogs). He and Alex Caitlin are, currently, the most prolific bolters down there. They will know everything about bolting if you have any questions. Meet Homero - very friendly. Also, ask for Milton if you really need some translation help.
Personally, I avoid Thanksgiving and X-mas/NewYears at Potrero. Two Reasons: 1. The rockfall increases dramatically. 2. The nice dirt turns to mud around all the showers and restrooms because of all the traffic. Oct-Nov and Mar/Apr are really the best months to be there. Bolting during the holidays is generally a bad idea because of the potential rockfall on people below. I have a few photos of Potrero posted on my picture site if you want to catch a glimpse of how great it is: Tripl.com
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davedude
Mar 5, 2007, 3:14 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2006
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The best book for El Potrero Chico, is The Whole Enchilada the new book by Dane Bass. It is a comprohensive guide that covers all the routes in El Potrero. Find out more at www.potrerokrew.com
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potreroed
Mar 12, 2007, 7:49 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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Sorry, dude, but the general concensus is that The Whole Enchilada sucks. Dane decided to downgrade most of the routes which is going to sandbag a lot climbers--the photo topos are mostly incorrect, the star system is a joke--some of the worst routes in the Potrero have stars, while some of the best have been ignored--and there are countles spelling, grammatical and other typos on virtually every page.
For a good book to get before you come down go to www.climbingcentral.com for a copy of my Potrero Select. Once you arrive you can pick up the plain-jane version which has all the routes and is still only 12 bucks--price hasn't changed in 4 years.
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potreroed
Mar 12, 2007, 7:53 PM
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Make that countless on my previous post.
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potreroed
Mar 12, 2007, 7:57 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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New route application process??? We don't have no stinkin' route application process.
Seriously--there are miles of untouched BIG walls down here and there are only two rules: 1. Thou shalt not alter an established route. 2. Anything goes.
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kitakat
Mar 17, 2007, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Aug 9, 2005
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Ed, how childish that you feel you must post that The Whole Enchilada Sucks. What poor taste. Have you even read your own books? Why haven't you talked about your own plentiful typos and inconsistencies!
The Whole Enchilada may have minor mistakes, as every guidebook does, but it was never meant to be a competition with you or your "guidebooks"; only a labor of love for the place and a means to advertise the town of Hidalgo and El Potrero Chico to the rest of the world as one of the premier multi-pitch sport climbing areas of the world, to boost tourism and to help EVERYONE around the Potrero, including YOU! It's a shame you selfishly attack anything or anyone that you feel threatens your percieved fame. Come on, act your age, not your climbing shoe size.
For those of you that would like to make a true comparison, The Whole Enchilada, A Climber's Guide to Potrero Chico, Mexico is available in the Potrero directly from Dane and at La Posada and online at www.potrerokrew.com. We are also in the process of making it available at climbing shops around the US, Canada and Mexico, so you may soon be able to find it at your local climbing shop or gym.
PEACE!
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michaelmcguinn
Mar 17, 2007, 8:26 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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I have three guides to Potrero. My fav is the photocopy/staple version that I picked up for Tammy while down there.
I have a copy of Potrero Select - El Potrero Chico Guidebook by Magic Ed and it is good.
You can get it at Gearexpress.com for $18.
I have the 1995?? Mexico Rock too.
Have fun down there and wear a helmet.
Michael
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potreroed
Mar 23, 2007, 3:13 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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Kita--you're right, it sounds as though I'm attacking your book but that was not my intention. I was merely refuting Davedudes assertion that your new book was the best one available. PEACE.
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cologman
Mar 23, 2007, 4:00 AM
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Registered: Sep 29, 2002
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Ed, good to see your at least posting. Sorry for your unfortunate accident. You weren't in to good of shape last I saw you up on the face. I will be down again next year and maybe we can get on the rock together but under different circumstances.
As for guide books, I carried Ed's little one in my hip pocket and it worked quite nicely. I have his "Select" and my partner picked up Danes book. We had it pretty well covered.
Great Place.
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