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gb3985
Mar 19, 2007, 5:39 PM
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I'm looking for an opinion here.
Thinkin bout gettin a set of Rock Empire Durangos,but would like some opinions first.I have read that they are ok,but don't know anybody that has any.They are stupid cheap!!!! Should I try them or save my $$$$$ and buy just a few of the sizes I need (.5-2) in a more expensive brand and get some of these to "fill in" later?????????
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johnathon78
Mar 19, 2007, 6:00 PM
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Rock Empire's cams are CE and UIAA certified, and, cheap. But that doesent mean you should buy them first. I would guess that 9 out of 10 people on here who have a trad rack are using Black Diamond or Metolius, as they are the best cams on the market. My preference: BD or Metolius.
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grinspoon
Mar 19, 2007, 6:26 PM
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Depends on how strapped you are for cash..
I have a set (1-5) of Rock Empire Robots which appear to have the same cam geometry, but are U-stem. I've fallen on every size and trust them completely. Their downside is the cam range, I've noticed a gap in the sizes more than a couple times while trying to place a piece. They served their purpose until I bought a set a C4s..I still use them though..they're just not placed first
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dynamo_
Mar 19, 2007, 9:21 PM
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gb3985 wrote: ...or save my $$$$$ and buy just a few of the sizes I need (.5-2)...
Yes. A set of nuts, a handful of tricams, these four size cams in a quality brand (BD, Metolius, Wild Country), and, depending on your location, a half set of hexes will serve you fine for a long time.
gb3985 wrote: ...and get some of these to "fill in" later?????????
No. When the time comes to double up, do it the same way...slowly, over time, with quality gear as you can afford it...just my opinion.
Yeah, RE cams will hold, but do it right the first time.
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norsk
Mar 19, 2007, 9:40 PM
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My vote is for the Durango's, IF you can't afford BD. If you can afford BD, then get them. They are considered the standard for a reason. However, I love my Durango's. They are the same exact cam that Trango used to make (called Flex cams), until Trango updated the design. The Durango's are smooth, solidly hold falls, and don't seem to walk easily. However, a definite downside is the gaps between the different sizes. I have yet to be 'stuck' somewhere where neither cam A nor B won't work, it's just that neither A nor B will be a perfect placement. But, I think that has happened to me only a few times relative to the vast majority of good placements. If you want to save the money but are concerned with Durango's gaps, check out the Pulsar cams.
All in all, in an ideal world I would have Camalots, but the world is not ideal and I love my Durango's.
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coach_kyle
Mar 19, 2007, 11:46 PM
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You can get more of them in with smaller range. It's a compromise. And, they're a little heavier than the BD's. But for cragging, where you won't be carrying your whole rack, that's not really much of an issue.
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gb3985
Mar 19, 2007, 11:51 PM
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I have some Tricams 2-.5, 2-1, 2-1.5, 2-2. And a full set of stoppers with doubles of the sizes I use alot. That was my cheap trad rack,and it gets me where I want to go.Just wantin to add some cams......cause everyone else has them
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dynamo_
Mar 20, 2007, 12:57 PM
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gb3985 wrote: I have some Tricams 2-.5, 2-1, 2-1.5, 2-2. And a full set of stoppers with doubles of the sizes I use alot. That was my cheap trad rack,and it gets me where I want to go.Just wantin to add some cams......cause everyone else has them
Well, you've got a great start. If you can afford them or if you have the self discipline to prolong the full rack, I still say by a piece at a time of the 'better' gear and you'll be happier in the long run. But, what do I know...seriously.
RE will hold if you fall. A Yugo will get you from point A to point B...
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z_rock90
Mar 20, 2007, 1:57 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2005
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yea rock empire cams suck balls. I can't tell you how many times I've seen them fixed on a route, save your money and buy the good stuff, BD, metolius,WC.
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seneca_sinner
Mar 20, 2007, 4:03 PM
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I have the RE durangos which will eventually make their way to the back of my rack but . for the price and a starter rack you cant go wrong with them..
but as most everyone has said if you can afford BD then go that way , my rack is currently a mix of RE durangos and BD cams , trango nuts, a few Trango ball nutz, and a set of BD hex's (that I have yet to ever use) and then will be adding the tricams in a few weeks...
but IMHO the RE stuff is affordable and will do the job for you to get started.
(This post was edited by seneca_sinner on Mar 20, 2007, 4:13 PM)
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foeslts16
Mar 20, 2007, 4:38 PM
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z_rock90 wrote
yea rock empire cams suck balls. I can't tell you how many times I've seen them fixed on a route, save your money and buy the good stuff, BD, metolius,WC.
z_rock90 - it is obvious that you are mentally retarded, that is the only reason that I can think of that someone would make such a stupid post.
gb3985 - here is my 2 cents, i have a set of the RE durangos, a full set of BD cams, 6 WC cams, and 4-5 misc branded cams.
The RE cams get the job done! Are they as smooth or have the same range as BD cams - no. But they get the job done. The RE cams are a great deal, for not to much $$ you can have a set of cams. Plus the CE and UIAA thing is also nice.
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seneca_sinner
Mar 20, 2007, 4:57 PM
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here is a comparison of the RE durango and the Camalots. specs
As you can see the ranges on the camalots are obvoiusly better, and it takes one less cam to cover the same range and the RE, but the BD is heavier in weight . just a quick comparison hope it helps a bit..
Durango(249.99) **** Camalot (Approx 432.99)
Size Weight Range ***Size Weight Range
.25 _ 60 _ .47-.63 **** .3 _ 75 _ .54-.92
.5 _ 65 _ .55-.79 ***** .4 _ 83 _ .61-1.05
.75 _ 68 _ .67-.94 **** .5 _ 99 _ .77-1.32
1 _ 98 _.79-1.14**** .75 _119 _ .94-1.62
2 _ 110 _ 1.06-1.61**** 1 _ 136 _ 1.19-2.05
3 _ 148 _1.38-2.08**** 2 _ 155 _ 1.46-2.55
4 _ 180 _ 1.89-2.71**** 3 _ 201 _ 2.0-3.46
5 _ 225 _ 2.36-3.54
Sorry couldnt figure out how to make it into a table so it is a bit hard to read.
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gb3985
Apr 4, 2007, 2:43 AM
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I ended up getting a helluva deal on some C4s.I got a .5,.75.1,2,3,3.5,4 for $230 they are used but in great shape.I talked to the guy I got them from and he bought them (he is a trust fund baby) and never really got into climbing.The 3,3.5 and 4 have never been placed. Now I'm gonna work on getting doubles in the .75-3.
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colemanizzle
Apr 6, 2007, 5:09 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2005
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Does anybody have any comments on the other brands of Rock Empire Cams. I only own two cams (both metolius) and they are U-stem. I like the action on them I wanted to know if the robot cams are comparable.
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janderson4010
Apr 7, 2007, 12:02 AM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2005
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nah man you should get on mountaingear and you can pick up a whole set of last gen powercams from Metolious for about 300 bucks, thats what I did and they are pretty sweet, I dig em at least
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sanarteaga
Jul 7, 2009, 5:07 AM
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Registered: Mar 23, 2008
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I own a complete durango set (before flex cam by trango...).
I climb near bogota, Colombia, south america, in rather soft sandstone.
I have fallen less than 10 times on the durangos. Out of those probably 8 where on the blue number 3 (size = red camalot). The f%%ing blue one has ripped out twice (so thats more or less 1/3 of the times). I have been saved both times by the orange numer 4 (size = yellow camalot). And it held both times like a champ, once the fall was a 8 meter factor 1! (i ended up at my belayers' height, but unharmed) I think the first time the blue ripped out because the piece was to small for the placement (now I always crank this guys at 80%). The second time I think it was the rock quality (sanstone...) but i couldnt tell if the pebbles that i felt falling were from the first placement (which blew) or the second one (which held me).
Besides leader falls, I have used them to build anchors, top ropes, and also "rested"on them while leading.
This said, this is what I have to say:
1. Great price.
2. Quality is ok. They are deteriorating, but nothing serious. I guess you can expect a life more or less 3/4 of a camalot.
3. DO NOT TRUST THEM AT RANGES SMALLER THAN 80%. BUT THEY ARE BOMBER AT 80% PLUS RANGES. They are suppose to work 50% up, but at less than 75% they are only psychological pieces to me. Since their range is rather limited, and sizes do not overlap much, they are simply not as versatile as C4s.
4. Stability: The small ones behave better. The big ones need stronger springs (they feel too soft and this could translate into "walking"). Simply use long draws to keep from disloging them...
5. I also own C4 camalots and they are better in every aspect except for: price and weight.
6. I you have no cams, go for RE. They will allow you to start trad climbing. Once get more into hard trads, and you start falling more on the pieces... maybe you will also like to save for some C4s...
Botton line:
CHEAP, RELIABLE BUT WITH A LIMITED RANGE, DECENT QUALITY, GREAT TO START YOUR SLCD RACK!
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