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graffixshaman
Apr 26, 2007, 2:55 PM
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Hello, I'm new to climbing (guess that explains the posting in beginners forum). I've got the Evolve Defy shoe at 11.5 US. I wear a 12 in normal shoe, and if available get a 11.5 wide (it fits the best). The thing is that my big toe is way bigger than the rest of my toes. After a few weeks going to the gym 2 times a week, my big toes ache and the nail is turning black on the sides. Is there another style for me? It's also extremely difficult to use my toe to climb. I usually resort to the inside or outside edge of my toe area, I'm only climbing at 5.7 indoors, not been ouside yet. It is frustrating because my feet hurting makes me not want to climb.. but then I always end up at the gym for the thrill of it, and another few days of a sore toe. So do I just have to learn technique and suck up the pain (doesn't sound too inspiring) or should I try another style shoe. I tried on the 12 of the style I have and there was alot of room out from my smaller 4 toes. Any help/suggestions would be great. I'm at a loss. If you wanna see how funny/large/black my big toes are I could post a picture (for viewing only, no laughing). Maybe my foot just isn't built for climbing?? NAAWWW that's me trying to tell myself I can't.. which I can, I just gotta figure out what works for me.
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lena_chita
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Apr 26, 2007, 3:03 PM
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Well... it sure sounds like the shoes don't fit you too well.
But size-wise they seem O.K. I wouldn't automatically think that they are too small for you. I have a pair of Evolv Elekras ( the women's version of Defy's). My street shoes size is 7-7.5 and my Evolvs are size 6. -- Snug, but I can wear them for 45-60 min at a time... though usually I take them off more frequently.
Do you take your shoes off between climbs? that may be the solution.
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graffixshaman
Apr 26, 2007, 3:14 PM
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No.. I usually go for about an hour on Wed. and about 3 hours or so on sat. Wed. I leave them on all day, Sat. I usually take them off once or twice cause it throbs!! it feels like my toe was holding it's breath when I take off my shoes. Like a rush of something.. it hurts at first but then feels really good.. like my toe is going... ahhhh....
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microbarn
Apr 26, 2007, 3:31 PM
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graffixshaman wrote: It's also extremely difficult to use my toe to climb. I usually resort to the inside or outside edge of my toe area, I'm only climbing at 5.7 indoors, not been ouside yet.
at that level, you should probably not be using your toe at all. Almost all the contact will be just behind the big toe in the joint area. You rarely will have to place your foot straight in on the wall. Usually you will use the outside or the inside of the foot.
It sounds like you need to try on more shoes to find your fit, but you should also work on improving technique.
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zealotnoob
Apr 26, 2007, 3:42 PM
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I experienced the "rush of something" when I first started climbing/wearing rock shoes. It's like a bed-sore...your circulation becomes limited under points of pressure and the flesh suffers for it--the rush is the blood coming back upon pressure release. Take you shoes off when you can...after a while my pain stopped...though I still take them off when I can. On the other hand...we don't want to see your black-turning toes...that can't be good 
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trenchdigger
Apr 26, 2007, 4:09 PM
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Dude, get some different shoes. Your shoes don't fit properly. Period.
Try La Sportiva brand shoes. They tend to fit feet with a long big toe. And search around for shoe fitting tips on here. Snug but not painful is what you're looking for. Generally your toes will be slightly bent. The shoe should fit the shape of your foot like a glove. A comfy, but properly fitted shoe will perform far better than a tight, but poorly fitted shoe.
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graffixshaman
Apr 26, 2007, 4:19 PM
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Any chance sportive makes a synthetic leather shoe? Not sure how comfortable I'd be wearing a dead animal on my foot because it makes me more comfy... :)
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vtrescuekid
Apr 26, 2007, 5:13 PM
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I've got rather large feet with my big toe being on the large side and I climb in one of two pairs of shoes. Either La Sportiva Barracuda's (very comfy) or La Sportiva Miura's (not as comfortable, but very tolerable). I also have a pair of 5.10 Coyote's and they are comfortable as well, but don't perform anywhere near as well as my La Sportiva's. It sounds like your shoes don't fit at all. Like everyone has said, it should be snug but not uncomfortable. You're not at the point yet that your feet should be killing you while you're climbing. Until you find a pair that fits better, take your shoes off after every few climbs, it should help w/ the circulation issues.
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hiyapokey
Apr 26, 2007, 5:44 PM
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I have used a lot of gym rental shoes and so have been able to feel the differant fits. I have worn shoes that are too tight and too loose. Luckily my shoes are just right. It sounds like you have feet that are hard to fit, but it really makes the differance when you get a pair that fits. I know some folks will diagree, but too tight IMO doesn't buy you much. As above the shoes should be tight, but not painful.
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Wyeth
Apr 26, 2007, 9:55 PM
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You should definately look into different pairs of shoes. Go to a R.E.I or similar store and try different shoes on. If you're lucky, they'll also have a small climbing wall where you can test them out. I was told when I first started that I should find a size that was just tight enough to start to hurt... and then get the next size smaller! I can say through experience that is definitely not the rule to follow. If you're in pain, you won't want to climb. If you go to a reputable gear store, they should be able to help you find the right shoes for your feet. Also, like microbarn said, you should also work on your technique. At the gym 5.7 level you'll most likely want to use the inside or outside of the "ball" of your foot rather than your toe. Turn your side into the wall, rather than sticking your butt out and using your toes. You'll find that you work a lot less that way. 
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Wyeth
Apr 26, 2007, 9:59 PM
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Oh also, I'm not sure of the brand, but I recall seeing a pair that you put in the microwave for a little while and then put them on and they custom form to your foot. That might be worth looking into. Anybody else seen these and know if they work? Just a gimmick?
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rob729
Apr 26, 2007, 10:35 PM
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so here is the deal with your shoe...the evolve defy is a lined shoe and made with a synthetic upper and yes you want your shoes snug but your shoe will barely stretch because it is made like this so you are supposed to size lined shoes comfortably (snug but not painfully tight) when you first try them on because they won't stretch hardly and unlined shoes you want to size more tight because they can stretch up to a half size larger or bigger after a while of use (i have a pair of unlined shoes that stretch a full size and a pair of lined shoes that have not stretched hardly any)...so hopefully this little bit of info will help you in the future
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graffixshaman
Apr 27, 2007, 12:07 PM
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Thanks for your input, now I guess I'm looking for a synthetic shoe that is similar the the Sportiva Barriccuda. I've read up on it and it seems people with my foot shape say it's a good one. Anything similar to that model but synthetic? Anybody have a larger foot and even larger big toe that climbs with a synthetic shoe? Let me know if so! I called REI, they are going to let me bring back my Evolve Defy's (I've only had them 2 months, and not climbed a whole lot do to the pain). So that was surprising, but great news.
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verbomatic
Apr 28, 2007, 7:23 PM
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I find that the so-called "beginner" shoes are really good for comfort. I had a pair of LaSportiva Cliffs for a long time that I climbed up to 5.11 with. They're great (comfortable) for smearing. They're only really lacking when it comes to edging on very small stuff. Right now I have a pair of LaSportiva Kumos, which are also very comfy. As a beginner, you don't really need a super, toe-crunching shoe. Just get a shoe that your foot fills out. I hope you find something that works.
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Wyeth
Apr 30, 2007, 3:57 AM
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Are you vegan? Or is there another reason you want a synthetic?
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carabiner96
Apr 30, 2007, 5:02 AM
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Wyeth wrote: Wyeth wrote: Oh also, I'm not sure of the brand, but I recall seeing a pair that you put in the microwave for a little while and then put them on and they custom form to your foot. That might be worth looking into. Anybody else seen these and know if they work? Just a gimmick? I talked to my brother. He works for Great Outdoor Provision Co. in NC. The shoes I'm thinking of are made by Montrail. They might make a couple different models that custom fit, but the one my brother mentioned is called the Wasabi. He also said that this is Montrail's last year in the climbing shoe business - no 2008 models. So I don't know... maybe that means the shoe sucks. It also might mean that you could find a decent close-out deal on the shoes if they are any good. Anyway, I guess it's worth checking out - with the freakishly large big-toe thing you've got going on.  http://www.montrail.com/technologies_ctx.aspx
Um...nope. Montrail hasn't updated any models, but they are a very successful climbing shoe company, just talked to a rep about their shoes last week. That would be like McDonalds deciding to not carry french fries anymore. I know they just got bought out by columbia, but dumping all of their climbing shoes? Can't see it.
(This post was edited by carabiner96 on Apr 30, 2007, 5:10 AM)
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curt
Apr 30, 2007, 5:30 AM
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If your climbing shoes really hurt your feet (as it seems yours do) they don't fit your feet properly. It's just that simple.
Curt
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rc_vinay
Apr 30, 2007, 5:50 AM
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put larg newspaper balls in your shoes after u finish climb.make shure it is pack enough and no space left inside the shouse.this will keep your shouse in same size as it expands.
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hosh
Apr 30, 2007, 6:29 AM
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rc_vinay wrote: put larg newspaper balls in your shoes after u finish climb.make shure it is pack enough and no space left inside the shouse.this will keep your shouse in same size as it expands.
Yeah, then wrap your feet real tight in rubber bands and duct tape them in place, that way, your feet will stay the same size and not expand.
or, you could buy new shoes. Try the shoes on first. They should be snug, not painful. Oh, and since you've got shoes with velcro, why don't you take them off between climbs? It'll fare much better on your poor feet...
hosh.
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rc_vinay
May 1, 2007, 6:28 AM
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or, you could buy new shoes. Try the shoes on first. They should be snug, not painful. Oh, and since you've got shoes with velcro, why don't you take them off between climbs? It'll fare much better on your poor feet...
hosh.ya dude u should give him sponsorship for his new shouse.
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hosh
May 1, 2007, 6:43 AM
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Yeah, I guess I should buy him a rope and a new harness while I'm at it...
hosh.
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rc_vinay
May 1, 2007, 3:58 PM
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oh i dont know u are so genorus. in that case i also need new pair of shouse....
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Wyeth
May 2, 2007, 1:22 AM
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carabiner96 wrote: Wyeth wrote: Wyeth wrote: Oh also, I'm not sure of the brand, but I recall seeing a pair that you put in the microwave for a little while and then put them on and they custom form to your foot. That might be worth looking into. Anybody else seen these and know if they work? Just a gimmick? I talked to my brother. He works for Great Outdoor Provision Co. in NC. The shoes I'm thinking of are made by Montrail. They might make a couple different models that custom fit, but the one my brother mentioned is called the Wasabi. He also said that this is Montrail's last year in the climbing shoe business - no 2008 models. So I don't know... maybe that means the shoe sucks. It also might mean that you could find a decent close-out deal on the shoes if they are any good. Anyway, I guess it's worth checking out - with the freakishly large big-toe thing you've got going on. http://www.montrail.com/technologies_ctx.aspxUm...nope. Montrail hasn't updated any models, but they are a very successful climbing shoe company, just talked to a rep about their shoes last week. That would be like McDonalds deciding to not carry french fries anymore. I know they just got bought out by columbia, but dumping all of their climbing shoes? Can't see it.
Thanks for possibly setting me straight. Slightly beside the point, but I stand possibly corrected nonetheless.
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