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fabe
May 4, 2007, 2:05 PM
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Registered: Apr 11, 2003
Posts: 75
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Ok here we go, yesterday I had my last day of school.... now I am studying for my final exams that start on monday. Afterwards I have to write my diploma work till mid June.
Then I'm gonna climb 5 weeks in the Swiss Alps.
But the best thing is going to start at the end of July: My best friend finishes his studies and we are off for a 4 months road trip trough Europe
We first plan to drive up to Scandinavia to climb, hike, fish and canoe. We think of staying in Sweden a fair bit because I heard that one can bring in lots of beer, while in Norway it's only a few liters. (Beer is so expensive up there and we like beer and we're on a tight budged )
Later we want to go further north, maybe Lofoten (Been there years ago, what an awesome place!!!)
When it gets to cold we plan to drive back south direction to Croatia and Greece.
So to my question: Who has been climbing in Scandinavia? What are the climbing highlights? Both sport and trad? Anything from 5.6 to 5.12d. Any recommended guidebooks?
Until when can you climb? September/October?
And by the way? is anybody around that time?
thanx for your help! have an awesome weekend. here in Switzerland it's gonna rain, maybe better for my studies
cheers Fabe
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uasunflower
May 4, 2007, 2:26 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 1563
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try a pm to adnix, i believe he's from up there...
chtur might know some as he's from sweden...
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danielh
May 10, 2007, 11:21 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2007
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Ok, here's the deal:
You can bring all the beer you can carry into Sweden, since we're a part of the European Union, but climbing is so much better in Norway. Hard to choose, I know...
But for the climbing...
Norway has anything from great bouldering, awesome cragging (both sport and trad) to really great longer trad routes (up to BigWalls, like Kjerag). But the weather can be really bad.
Sweden has generally better weather, some good bouldering (Kjugekull being one of the best), some great trad-climbing on the West coast, and some nice sportclimbing.
Hiking in forests is better in Sweden, but hiking in the mountains is better in Norway. Canoeing and fishing is probably better in Sweden, and along the coasts, in the archipelagos, you can do really great trips with kayaks. Lots of places to rent a kayak.
Some great places to climb are:
* Kjugekull, very south of Sweden, bouldering
* West coast of Sweden ("Bohuslän"), including Gothenburg, one-pitch tradclimbing at its best
* In "Rogaland", around Stavanger in Norway, there is bouldering, cragging (both awesome sport and trad-climbing) and excellent multipitch trad.
* Romsdal in Norway has some fine multipitch adventures, and is home to the infamous Troll Wall
* Lofoten, as mentioned, is one of the best, but...
* Tromsö is even better. If you're into multipitch trad, you need to check this out
There are lots of small crags throughout both Norway and Sweden, some of them quite good.
As usual, make sure to check the access restrictions for the area you are planning to climb in.
When to go?
For tradclimbing in Norway (and especially Lofoten and Tromsö), I would recommend august. West coast of Norway could be ok in september, especially cragging, and West coast of Sweden is nice in September and probably October, but can be cold and wet. Bouldering in south Sweden is possible all around the year, except for when there is too much snow.
Cheers,
/ Daniel, Sweden
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