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ovet
May 23, 2007, 8:52 PM
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Registered: Dec 1, 2005
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I want to buy a 70 mts rope...
10 to 10.5 max
sport climbing, no toprope, some multipitchs.
dry or no dry?
Mammut 10, or 10.2... what about the 10.5 much weight? ok last long... but..
Petzl 10.3 anyone has bought this?
Sterling 10.1 or other?
Edelweis? axis 10.2 or other?
I want a good one of course... not get fuzzy so early.
hate to get stuck on the reverso....
thanks for any opinion...
im on the 11's hehehe
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vegastradguy
May 23, 2007, 8:56 PM
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sterling- beautiful hand, lasts forever. get either one of the Marathons or Evolution series.
mammuts are nice, but pricey.
edelweis- mine fizzed out within a year, i'm sad because i liked it while i had it, but thats way too little use for my taste.
petzls.....i'd wait for some time and rate on these, i think...they're still new enough that they probably havent found their stride yet.
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bouldrinsoill
May 23, 2007, 9:13 PM
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I'd go for the sterling marathon 10.1 Great rope, handles well. highly reccomended
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jh_angel
May 23, 2007, 9:24 PM
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I've been climbing on a Mammut 10mm for the last year and a half and I love it. I've put it through many a beating and it has held up fantastic.
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snakedevil
May 23, 2007, 9:54 PM
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I've got a mammut 10.5. Theyre pricey, but theyre also great ropes. Mines lasted me a long time.
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climb_plastic
May 23, 2007, 10:01 PM
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Sterling Marathon (or Biathlon) - Make sure you get the dry version. The non-dry is too rough making it tougher to belay when feeding. I have both. They're light as a 9.8 but last long because they're supposedly 10.1...although it feels thicker than the Beal Flyer 10.2
Beal Flyer II - My friend has it. I like it better than my Marathons. Very slippery though...I think it's 10.2 but feeds through and lowers through a grigri easier than 9.8 dry ropes I have tried and requires more braking force strength when using with an atc. It is very durable.
Axis - Seems too thick and heavy like a 10.5
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jammer
May 23, 2007, 10:19 PM
Post #7 of 23
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I agree with the diameter, but wonder why you will need a 70 meter rope for sport? Most of the sport routes were put up with either a 50 or 60 meter rope. I use 70 meter for trad climbing only.
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justthemaid
May 24, 2007, 2:57 AM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2004
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1st choice: Mammut
2nd choice: Sterling
My Mammut cost more, but the thing has lasted twice as long as any other rope I've owned.
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ovet
May 24, 2007, 3:10 AM
Post #9 of 23
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Ok, seems like 10.1 sterling or 10 mammut or 10.2.
Some friends have beal and told me that last less than other brands ,is a good one, but...
70 mts, cos in the area where i climb there are a lot of ruotes where you need to climb or rapel, a 60 work, but 70 is like the best option.
Ok and... where to buy a 70 mts...  i checked most of the online places and just have all the versions in 60 mts.....
thanks again
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dlintz
May 24, 2007, 8:08 PM
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I can't comment yet on Beal's durability since my Flyer II is only a few weeks old. That said I love the way it handles and it's so flippin' light.
d.
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j_ung
May 24, 2007, 8:23 PM
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dlintz wrote: I can't comment yet on Beal's durability since my Flyer II is only a few weeks old. That said I love the way it handles and it's so flippin' light. d.
The best all-around rope I've owned is the Sterling 10.1 Marathon.
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devkrev
May 24, 2007, 8:30 PM
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dlintz wrote: I can't comment yet on Beal's durability since my Flyer II is only a few weeks old. That said I love the way it handles and it's so flippin' light. d.
I just bought my second Beal Flyer II and love it.
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fitzontherocks
May 24, 2007, 8:59 PM
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devkrev wrote: dlintz wrote: I can't comment yet on Beal's durability since my Flyer II is only a few weeks old. That said I love the way it handles and it's so flippin' light. d. I just bought my second Beal Flyer II and love it.
I had a Beal that lasted like iron. Three years of pretty hard climbing. And I'll second what someone else said about Edelweises fuzzing after a year. I wish I hadn't bought that one. My partner's Mammuts have been long-lasting, too.
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dretket
May 24, 2007, 9:07 PM
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I have a mammut 10.2 matterhorn. I love it, I had a bluewater before it and the difference is night and day. The mammut is much softer, and alot easier to handle.
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climb_plastic
May 24, 2007, 9:16 PM
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Between the flyer II and the marathon dry is a toss up. They are very different feeling ropes. The flyer is stiff and very slick while the marathon is soft, very light, and not as slick. I like climbing with the flyer because, I clip easier with a stiffer and slippery rope, and although it's noticeably heavier, it pulls through the draws easier and that ease of sliding makes it easier to belay with a grigri. They're both very durable.
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dan2see
May 24, 2007, 10:32 PM
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Choose the rope with the coolest color.
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ovet
May 27, 2007, 10:37 PM
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Registered: Dec 1, 2005
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Thats a pretty good answer!!!! not the one i was particulary looking for....
Wish you could select rope and colors!!!! hahahaha
Thanks... anyway climbing is a living EVERY DAY great experience... SO almost anything could match...
ill probably get the mammust 10.2... still sterling 10.1 looks good.
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dan2see
May 28, 2007, 1:26 AM
Post #18 of 23
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That's a pretty good answer, and it's not really a joke either.
Ovet, you had already selected some ropes that you can use, so I can easily bet they're all good.
On the other hand, nobody knows your area as well as you do, so it's pretty hard for us to guess what's really right for your rock.
In the 1990's the rope manufacturers used bright colors in the ropes, and it was fun to walk down the crags and check out the cool colors. Then they toned down the ropes, and today most ropes look dull and dreary, although they work really great.
I bought a new rope recently, a New England Apex Maxim, in green with yellow. It looks cheery and is the brightest rope among my crowd. But also the tight weave is excellent on high-friction limestone, and I think it's the best behaved for multi-pitch in the Canadian Rockies. And it's cool  !
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ovet
May 28, 2007, 2:10 AM
Post #19 of 23
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OK not a joke... like dark colors....
I climb in potrero chico.... limestone...
some sharp edges, some drag
like to enjoy my day.... look the rock... more than the human products.... so that all.. hehehe
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hosh
May 28, 2007, 2:15 AM
Post #20 of 23
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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I've got the Metolius Monster rope, and I hate it. I usually like Metolius products, but I don't think I'll be getting a rope from them again. It's not wearing very well, the middle mark (mine was pre-string markers) isn't very noticable and it just doesn't handle as well as some other ropes I've used. I think next time I'll get a beal.
hosh.
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benj
May 28, 2007, 2:16 AM
Post #21 of 23
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Registered: Dec 21, 2004
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I have climbed on all of the brands you are considering and Beal as well. I work at a gear shop too so I'll give you my ideas on this.
First off, a dry rope will last longer because the coating reduces friction on draws and against the rock. It also prevents grit from getting into the core of the rope. Even if you don't ice climb you may get stuck in the rain and having a dry coating will reduce absorbtion by at least 25%.
All of those ropes are good, the sterling is the most durable. It has a thick and tight shealth and is the only one that I have noticed to last longer than most ropes that I've climbed with. The petzl ropes are too new to know exactly how long they will last.
What is cool about the petzl ropes is that they have a low impact force. For years BEAL has had the lowest impact force on the market at 7.3 (I had 2 Booster 9.7s). The problem that I had with the Booster was that it was so soft. It handled like a dream, caught softly but didn't last very long unless you only do overhanging sport climbing where the rope is only ever going to touch draws. The Petzl 10.3 has a 7.3 impact force and is 8% less stretch than a comparable Beal rope and the sheath is really tight.
I had the Supernova 10.2 (10mm now) as my workhorse rope. It has a higher impact force and generally wasn't nice to fall on unless my belayer did a good job of giving a dynamic catch. It did outlast the Booster by a full year though.
I know you already want the 70 but just in case. Aside from the obvious benefit of being able to get down off of something big a 70m will allow you to cut some off of the ends once they get worn and flattenedd and still have a 60m+ rope which seems to be the standard.
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ovet
May 28, 2007, 2:58 AM
Post #22 of 23
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Registered: Dec 1, 2005
Posts: 27
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mmm
i Hear the mammut last longer than the sterling... you dont think the same?
the drycore is a good option, because i read lots of answers saying last a little long... and of course some rainy days.
so, if you work for a gear shop... you prefer sterling over mammut ?
i was kinda more prone to buy the mammut.... but now--.,....
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kevinheiss
May 29, 2007, 2:53 AM
Post #23 of 23
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Registered: Apr 26, 2004
Posts: 272
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I would go with the mammut as I have had mine for 3 years now (little use at first, moderate use for 2 years) and there is still no fuzzyness.
A friend of mine got a Edelweis rope and just like someone said, it got fuzzy within a year.
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