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salimp
Jun 15, 2007, 5:05 AM
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the top anchors on both routes "bushwacked & B-line" (Echo-Left Flank) are getting worse and worse...they are loose...looks like i t can come any day...everybody knows about it and keeps climbing...is there anybody with the gear to put a new top anchors...it may save somebody's life ...
sal
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tansofun
Jun 15, 2007, 3:32 PM
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hey sal
i emailed safeclimbing.org and troy mayer
thanks for the heads up
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tripperjm
Jun 15, 2007, 4:05 PM
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Who you need to talk to is Louie Anderson (socalbolter). He either placed the bolts or knows who did. In any case, Louie is a stand up guy, easy to talk to and will get the job done.
socalbolter@cox.net
or pm socalbolter on this site.
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tansofun
Jun 15, 2007, 5:34 PM
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i got a reply from troy, he said he's forwarded to somebody who'll look into it
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mperlick
Jun 15, 2007, 7:19 PM
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Sal:
I just wanted to add that the anchors have tracks that are worn half way through. Eventually they're going to break off.
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salimp
Jun 16, 2007, 3:39 PM
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thnks to all of you guys...another friend contacted Loui and i think Loui said he is OK if somebody fixes it. I am not pro on that but i believe there are several options; to replace the bolts using the same holes or epoxy the existing ones and/or drill one or two more holes next to them if it is OK to drill holes...
Tan, i will e-mail you my friends e-mai to pass to it your friend ... i believe between them we will have the enough gear to do the job...
i feel much better :))have a good weekend :))
(This post was edited by salimp on Jun 16, 2007, 3:46 PM)
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caughtinside
Jun 16, 2007, 5:16 PM
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papa_eos wrote: salimp wrote: Loui said he is OK if somebody fixes it. Why doesn't Louie do it himself if he put up the route? Or if he didn't , at least get the person who did to take a look at it. Typical, carpet-bagging route setters, bolt the crap out of a place and move on, usually never coming back again. 
Let me see if I understand you correctly...
If a guy puts up a route that gets climbed and enjoyed by hundreds of climbers, to the point that the anchors need to be replaced, he has a continuing obligation to return when contacted, use his time, money and effort to replace the gear?
Sheesh. There are probably a few local climbers there who know how to replace anchors.
Carpetbagger route developers. LOL!
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roughster
Jun 16, 2007, 6:45 PM
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papa_eos wrote: salimp wrote: Loui said he is OK if somebody fixes it. Why doesn't Louie do it himself if he put up the route? Or if he didn't , at least get the person who did to take a look at it. Typical, carpet-bagging route setters, bolt the crap out of a place and move on, usually never coming back again.
Why don't you get off your lazy ass and do it?
(This post was edited by roughster on Jun 16, 2007, 6:46 PM)
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tansofun
Jun 16, 2007, 6:58 PM
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salimp wrote: Tan, i will e-mail you my friends e-mai to pass to it your friend ... i believe between them we will have the enough gear to do the job... i feel much better :))have a good weekend :))
troy mayer is the guy that put together the so cal sport climbing guide. wish he was my friend and would let me dog up all sorts of routes he set up :P
I think the proper people have been alerted and necessary things are in motion, whoever fixes it.
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socalbolter
Jun 16, 2007, 9:44 PM
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papa_eos wrote: salimp wrote: Loui said he is OK if somebody fixes it. Why doesn't Louie do it himself if he put up the route? Or if he didn't , at least get the person who did to take a look at it. Typical, carpet-bagging route setters, bolt the crap out of a place and move on, usually never coming back again.
I'm not going to defend my actions other than to say that I've added many hundreds of routes to the SoCal area. It's my hope that people have enjoyed these routes and that I've provided them with alternate choices when planning their outings.
I try to plan and place my anchors with ease of ultimate replacement in mind. The routes in question however were not bolted by me and the person who bolted them now lives in New York.
I'll do what I can to make sure this gets addressed, but I don't feel responsible to put in 6 hours of drive time and give up a day of climbing elsewhere just to fix some anchors that I did not even place. I really hope that your opinion and attitude on this topic is not the way it appears, and that you are far in the minority when it comes to public opinion.
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pylonhead
Jun 17, 2007, 12:18 AM
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socalbolter wrote: I really hope that your opinion and attitude on this topic is not the way it appears, and that you are far in the minority when it comes to public opinion.
I hope so too, and as someone who loves climbing on bolts in socal, I would like to show my appreciation for all the work and money you've put in developing crags.
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salimp
Jun 17, 2007, 6:11 AM
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please stop that blaim stuff on this thread..
i put this message just to warn fellow climbers
i did not mean to create a finger pointing blaming conversation.
I can only thank people like Loui Anderson for the hardwork they did and apologize from him because that message got him involved in something that he does not deserve.
Also i liked climbing because typically this community has a more positive attititude than any other sports...please let us keep it that way.
if anybody wants to be helpfull, please just pass the message until it is fixed. if you can fix it that is even better |
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tallmark515
Jun 19, 2007, 4:31 AM
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hey sal,
I'm waiting to hear back from Louie about the bolt size. If I remember correctly they are half inch. Once I hear back from him maybe we can split the cost for new bolts and chains. the RAWL stainless 1/2" bolts are about $10-15 per bolt + another $6 per stainless hanger w/ rap-ring.
We'll also need to get a 1/2" bit for my drill, currently I only have a 3/8" bolt.
I'll keep in touch! How many anchors are bad? 2?
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socalbolter
Jun 19, 2007, 8:09 PM
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After emailing with Mark, it sounds as though he is going to replace the bad anchors on these routes.
A big "Thank You" to him for this. Over the coming years, many anchors and bolts placed in the early years of sport climbing's development are going to be coming of age and the need for this type of repair will become more commonplace. I have replaced many anchors and bolts over the years and challenge all those knowledgeable in bolting to be prepared and willing to do the same in the future.
Thanks again to Mark and whoever else may be involved in this and thank you to the OP for bringing this to our attention.
- Louie
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tallmark515
Jun 19, 2007, 10:45 PM
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thanks again Louie! Sal, the bolts are 3/8", which means we don't need to buy anything because I already have all the hardware, perhaps we can go out there this weekend and replace the anchors.
-mark
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salimp
Jun 20, 2007, 2:58 AM
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good news :)). tnhks Mark. you are the hero of the month. it is so weird that i posted a reply yesterday about anchor size (Louie's response) but i believe i must have forgetten to post reply:))
Anyway, i will check with others as we were planning to climb this weekend but if not this weekend, i can go next weekend.
sal
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tallmark515
Jun 20, 2007, 3:46 AM
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salimp wrote: good news :)). tnhks Mark. you are the hero of the month. sal
Do you think that you get me a trophy?!
:)
-mark
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salimp
Jun 20, 2007, 1:56 PM
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hey mark,
we will think something and we can turn this into 4th of July climbing event and you can get your throphy then :))
do you think we need another person experienced in bolting & placing anchors. I have no experience on that and it might be a good idea that somebody cross checks what is going in. You probably know what you are doing but i do not. We better be safe rather than "sorry". What do you think ?
Tan, maybe your friend can also join us, any luck with that ??
sal
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tallmark515
Jun 20, 2007, 10:54 PM
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I don't think it'll be a problem. I should be able to take care of it myself, I'll probably do it this Sunday if I end up climbing locally (which I probably will),
-mark
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tallmark515
Jun 24, 2007, 2:16 AM
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Update! I will be climbing at Echo tomorrow (Sunday) and if everything goes as planned, by the end of the day there will be some shiny new rap-ring anchors at the top of the route and if I catch ANYONE top-roping through the new anchors I will personally beat the crap out of them.
-mark
(This post was edited by tallmark515 on Jun 24, 2007, 4:03 PM)
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tallmark515
Jun 25, 2007, 10:46 PM
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B-Line anchors replaced, new holes were drilled (couldn't reuse old ones) and some brand new (plated) rap ring hangers were added.
Anchors on other routes still look ok.
See attached pic! BTW, rope is running through the rings because I was about to rappel down, NOT TOP ROPE.
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bolts rope.jpg
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socalbolter
Jun 25, 2007, 11:23 PM
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Mark -
Thank you for doing this. We all appreciate it.
One thing though. Can you camo paint them next time you're out there. That particular route (and wall) is directly across form the Mishe Mokwa hiking trail and those new anchors will catch the sunlight and shine like you would not believe.
Rustoleum has a line of spray paint called American Accents (or something like that). One of the colors is called Nutmeg and it seems to match the rock out there very well. It's what we used on all of the anchors and hangers that we installed there.
Thank you again for doing this.
- Louie
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tallmark515
Jun 25, 2007, 11:26 PM
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socalbolter wrote: Mark - Thank you for doing this. We all appreciate it. One thing though. Can you camo paint them next time you're out there. That particular route (and wall) is directly across form the Mishe Mokwa hiking trail and those new anchors will catch the sunlight and shine like you would not believe. Rustoleum has a line of spray paint called American Accents (or something like that). One of the colors is called Nutmeg and it seems to match the rock out there very well. It's what we used on all of the anchors and hangers that we installed there. Thank you again for doing this. - Louie
no prob.
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