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jakedatc
Jun 27, 2007, 8:46 PM
Post #51 of 68
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I dunno.. the nut might catch full value of 1' of extension so it might not be there anymore in that chossy lookin' rock.
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majid_sabet
Jun 27, 2007, 8:46 PM
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shrug7 wrote: jakedatc wrote: nah.. i'll shock folks and go with MS on this one.. if A fails then it will extend so far that everything will be on the yellow cam on the left which from the close pic doesn't give me a nice fuzzy feeling. anchor has major extension issues. and a problem with sewn nylon is that making a knot in one of the legs to minimize extension takes up alot of length. also if anything cuts the bottom sling the whole thing is toast. if anything cuts the top sling it's all onto the sketch yellow cam. Even if that nut stays in. it'll still put everything on the yellow cam....? I'll build it when I get home just to see.
When A fails , K and M will be extended to B.
Where do you think those two biner marked as C will endup ?
[URL=http://imageshack.us]
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jun 27, 2007, 8:53 PM)
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jakedatc
Jun 27, 2007, 8:48 PM
Post #53 of 68
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: majid_sabet wrote: shrug7 wrote: jakedatc wrote: nah.. i'll shock folks and go with MS on this one.. if A fails then it will extend so far that everything will be on the yellow cam on the left which from the close pic doesn't give me a nice fuzzy feeling. anchor has major extension issues. and a problem with sewn nylon is that making a knot in one of the legs to minimize extension takes up alot of length. also if anything cuts the bottom sling the whole thing is toast. if anything cuts the top sling it's all onto the sketch yellow cam. Even if that nut stays in. it'll still put everything on the yellow cam....? I'll build it when I get home just to see. Jacked Do not say a word and let me work with these guys ok back to you When A fails , K and M will be extended to B. Where do you think those two biner marked as C will endup ? [ URL= http:// imageshack. us][IMG] http://img513. imageshack. us/img513/8304/anchor331previewkg6.jpg[/IMG] ohhh.. i see.. private lesson by majid now.. back to being a fucktard again.. i'll work with ya..
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Jun 27, 2007, 8:49 PM)
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shrug7
Jun 27, 2007, 8:52 PM
Post #54 of 68
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jakedatc wrote: I dunno.. the nut might catch full value of 1' of extension so it might not be there anymore in that chossy lookin' rock.
But preventable by tying knots on both side of the X.
knieveltech, Just to verify, those runners are equal length?
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majid_sabet
Jun 27, 2007, 8:55 PM
Post #55 of 68
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your two biner will endup right in to threads on the yellow sling and you do not want that.
now you want to move on to other arrows on first page?
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jun 27, 2007, 9:26 PM)
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shrug7
Jun 27, 2007, 8:55 PM
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What's B again...the locker?
nevermind...you edited your post....
(This post was edited by shrug7 on Jun 27, 2007, 8:58 PM)
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jakedatc
Jun 27, 2007, 8:58 PM
Post #57 of 68
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one side of the x would do fine and still keep a little bit of active equalizing.. still tying knots in 1" webbing takes up length and is kind of a pain in the ass to dress nice. i prefer cord or spectra
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shrug7
Jun 27, 2007, 9:00 PM
Post #58 of 68
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sweing ?
Sure. I'm game. I think a few folks want to know about the arrows.
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knieveltech
Jun 27, 2007, 9:20 PM
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shrug7 wrote: jakedatc wrote: I dunno.. the nut might catch full value of 1' of extension so it might not be there anymore in that chossy lookin' rock. But preventable by tying knots on both side of the X. knieveltech, Just to verify, those runners are equal length?
Yep, they sure are.
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vector
Jun 27, 2007, 9:25 PM
Post #60 of 68
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altelis wrote: one quick piece of advice (and this doesn't address your anchors just something you said; i actually agree fully with billcoe on this one, climb man climb, good enough for me) ... god may have made all men equal but definitely not all placements, so you shouldn't treat them as such, or he might be required to kill some kittens!
Good food for thought in there altelis.
I have a friend who likes to talk about how adding an additional marginal piece to an anchor can make things worse. A lot of his examples are a bit contrived, but this is a good example.
In this anchor the lousy nut in anchor 2 will likely blow in a hard fall (I really think it is that bad). Since it is magic X'ed into the anchor the blown nut will result in extension. So in this case all the extra piece does is add a high probability of a extension/shock load onto your better pieces. For this example, I submit you would be better off with out the third piece or _not_ using a magic X on it (or in your anchor at all).
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Adk
Jun 27, 2007, 9:26 PM
Post #61 of 68
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Majid Thanks.
Either work was hard today or I just feel stupid. Nevermind. I'll take medal for stupid.
Now I'll STFU!
Nice anchor problem and critique.
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richardvg03
Jun 27, 2007, 9:27 PM
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Is this a mulitple choice question???
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majid_sabet
Jun 27, 2007, 9:42 PM
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shrug7 wrote: What's B again...the locker? nevermind...you edited your post....
The two opposed biner at your final power point will land on the yellow webbing where the sewing is and there is a chance that in big fall, it may ripped apart and cause a total failure
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duckbuster_13
Jun 27, 2007, 9:53 PM
Post #64 of 68
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knieveltech wrote: I'm glad that this thread may have potential value to other climbers.
While I know there is no replacement for careful guidance and mentoring under an experienced leader, this is certainly extremely valuable for those who have never even put their hands on a set of nuts (stop giggling) and are just interested in garnering some very basic information on how to place them properly and why.
(you may now commence giggling)
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majid_sabet
Jun 28, 2007, 6:14 AM
Post #65 of 68
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[URL=http://imageshack.us]
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quiteatingmysteak
Jun 28, 2007, 7:17 AM
Post #66 of 68
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I hope majid S. will always be here. Like a trip back to kato from Pink Panther.
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shrug7
Jun 28, 2007, 11:10 AM
Post #67 of 68
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OH! I know this one....the ice screw is not going in to the tire all the way.
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nostalgia
Jun 29, 2007, 5:03 PM
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You know Majid, every time I read one of your condescending, holier-than-thou,I-know-everything-you-know-nothing posts, it makes me want to crawl through the monitor and punch you right in the face.
Then you post this and I want to hug you.
majid_sabet wrote:
In all seriousness, Majid, if you would try to be less of an asshole to your fellow climbers, your opinions would carry a lot more weight. If you truly are trying to make people safer, please realize that your condescending posts just make people want to ignore your advice.
-Joe
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