|
mountainman
Jun 14, 2007, 3:15 AM
Post #1201 of 2156
(10102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
|
Mark,
You are an official Friend of the Planet!
|
|
|
|
|
cruxicon
Jun 15, 2007, 1:16 PM
Post #1202 of 2156
(10063 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 8, 2007
Posts: 2
|
YO!
Hey guys, I am a PA native and have recently joined the site in hope to find some climbing partners. I have done a fair amount of climbing, some in PA some in the Teton area. I would like to learn to lead but have not yet had the chance due to lack of gear. I have the basics (ropes, shoes, harness) and am eager to get out. I have been to breakneck quite a few times, the mill, krahlick when it was open and am looking to hit up lost crag ASAP. I am located about 20 minutes outside of pittsburgh.
BTW, I am very near aspinwall and was wondering where you could do some bouldering there?
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Jun 15, 2007, 1:53 PM
Post #1203 of 2156
(10061 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
PM sent. There's a obvious manmade structure along Freeport. While I've never had an issue there, I try to be low-key.
Doyle, I realized another friend is driving. I'll have to see if he wants to save the planet before putting trash in his car!
(This post was edited by markc on Jun 15, 2007, 1:54 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
truello
Jun 15, 2007, 1:57 PM
Post #1204 of 2156
(10054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2006
Posts: 737
|
Anyone know the access issues at Casparis? Tim's site still says its closed (as of 2002) but when I talked to him sometime last year he suggested that I climb there. So has it reopened since 2002? Was thinking about going back this Saturday to see if there are any good cracks.
|
|
|
|
|
charley
Jun 18, 2007, 8:06 PM
Post #1205 of 2156
(9971 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
|
I had a good weekend at seneca. Dan, did you make it down? I didn't see you.
|
|
|
|
|
microbarn
Jun 18, 2007, 9:02 PM
Post #1206 of 2156
(9965 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
|
Yes, we made it down. For variety, we camped at the alternative Yokum's campground near their restaurant. It was nice because the river was right there to jump in after the day.
TR in short:
at the parking lot at 8 AM
I led Le Gourmet
Brian did Front C
I did the scramble on old man's traverse
Brian did Le Gourmet
rap down and saw the first party of the day other then us coming up on neck press.
We did the first two pitches of Conn's west. I did the first, Brian did the second. There was a girl doing her first trad lead going up to West pole. Since our first pitches overlapped, I ended up following her while she was leading. (Her belayer suggested that I do this since we don't overlap the entire way. I was glad I was there. She started having some doubts about where the route went and other things that could make a first time trad leader worry. I think she did pretty reasonable from what I saw. She put in a redirect piece to protect her follower, but this increased the drag. I was able to fix the rope drag for her. At the end of that pitch, I was happy with my anchor building efficiency because I was able to have Brian come up prior to the other party's second. I think this made it easier for the two ropes to remain untangled. In retrospect, I will probably avoid climbing so close to another party. There were no problems, but I saw the potential for many to happen.
We called it a day because we were tired and the sun was starting to hit the west face pretty hard. I was extremely proud of getting myself onto some leads, but I was getting fried mentally.
We had dinner at the Front Porch. Also, we got some beers and sat with our feet in the river for a while.
Second day, we got up early (at the parking lot by 8:15). I was afraid of the verbal descriptions of Skyline Traverse. So, I elected to follow the crux pitch this time. I regret this decision. The mental crux wasn't as bad as I was expecting. The availability of pro was amazing too. I will defnitly lead this in the future. The first pitch I over protected an insane amount. So, I have something to work on there too. It was really great to get some miles on the easier pitches. I need many more.
Overall, a great weekend....I think this was the first time I was able to get into a party of two swinging leads on multipitch. All the other times it was a party of three or single pitch. Very fun time.
|
|
|
|
|
truello
Jun 19, 2007, 1:45 PM
Post #1207 of 2156
(9936 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2006
Posts: 737
|
Sounds like a great time indeed.
Going to the Mill tomorrow around 5:30 and then will be going to the New Friday night through Sunday afternoon. Anyone else thinking the same?
|
|
|
|
|
tanderson
Jun 19, 2007, 3:52 PM
Post #1208 of 2156
(9925 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2000
Posts: 108
|
Hi everyone... Casparis (the roped climbing areas) are still closed to climbing. They're located on private property owned by the guy that lives at the bottom of the hill on the left. The "newly" developed and developing bouldering area is on State Game Land. It has amazing potential. It dwarfs The Mill as far as bouldering goes. We've established 50+ problems ranging in height of 8' to about 20+ ft. (some are topropable for those not interested in climbing that high ropeless.) Several of us locals are really working on the area and making it amazing. We've only scratched the surface. We've hiked the boulders several times and realized how much bouldering is here. This area is a MUST see for anyone that has any interest in bouldering. We've made some good trails and have mapped everything we've done so far. I've been writing it as a mini guide for those interested in getting a copy. It contains an overall map and problem descriptions. I'd be more than willing to share the info. Hope some of you have the urge to come check it out! You won't be disappointed!
Tim
Here's the directions:
The easiest is to follow South Connellsville's Pittsburgh Street to the end, turn left onto McCormick Avenue, and follow this to the point where it curves to the right, which is Casparis Road. follow this rough road up the steep hill and onto the flat. Continue out flat until you come to a similar road to the right. take this right, forge the small stream and continue to the top of the hill. The parking area is on the right at the top of the hill.
The trail starts at the parking area (for those familiar its the same parking area as for Opperman's Cave). The trail to the cave is on the left (rather worn and narrow) The bouldering trail is the wider newly cut trail that goes straight into the woods (sorta looks like a cart path and is wide enough for crash pads). Follow the wide open trail apprx. 100yrds to an intersection with an ATV trail, turn left onto ATV trail. Follow up steep hill 100 yrds to the top. Continue straight on the flat to the small open area 150 yrds. At this point the ATV trail cuts down over the hill to the right (do NOT continue on the ATV trail). In this open area go to the back left corner and find the continuation of the "new trail" cut into the woods. follow this a short distance to the Old growth forest and a Y in the trail. To the left is the Dark Side, to the right is the Dark Side. These trails will lead you to the established boulders. (Total approach time apprx 10min.)
|
|
|
|
|
mountainman
Jun 19, 2007, 4:59 PM
Post #1209 of 2156
(9919 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
|
It is glorious, out in the woods, and the climbing is spectacular.
(This post was edited by mountainman on Jun 21, 2007, 1:29 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
mountainman
Jun 21, 2007, 1:30 PM
Post #1210 of 2156
(9851 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
|
Breaking Story: Just heard that some parties at Woodland last weekend were chased off by a Greer security guard, and Woodland may be off limits. Any news on this?
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Jun 21, 2007, 1:55 PM
Post #1211 of 2156
(9849 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
mountainman wrote: Breaking Story: Just heard that some parties at Woodland last weekend were chased off by a Greer security guard, and Woodland may be off limits. Any news on this?
To the best of my knowledge, climbing has been off-limits at Woodland since before I started climbing. It's also listed as such on our routes database. When I've mentioned it, people have been flippant and mentioned the crowds. If the owners have noticed and reinstated the patrols of old, I can't say I'm shocked.
|
|
|
|
|
microbarn
Jun 21, 2007, 2:43 PM
Post #1212 of 2156
(9845 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
|
People that were there on sunday did not mention this to me. It could have happened at another time in the day or on Saturday though.
Markc is also correct. Every resource I have ever heard from states it is closed. I can't blame them for enforcing it.
|
|
|
|
|
microbarn
Jun 25, 2007, 3:16 PM
Post #1213 of 2156
(9751 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
|
mountainman wrote: Breaking Story: Just heard that some parties at Woodland last weekend were chased off by a Greer security guard, and Woodland may be off limits. Any news on this?
I was away this weekend. I found out this morning that the rumors were true. The story from someone that was chased off is that they were also recording plate numbers.
Here is the latest update from spyder:
--------------------------------------------------------------------
I talked with a couple of the local climbers. They said that the parking issues that
Janos and Jerome ran into last week were specifically related to some of the local
residents that lived on the road. Apparently some people left their cars parked
sticking out onto the road.
So If you park in the upper parking area at Woodland, please make sure that your car
is COMPLETELY off the road. Then you should have no problem at all.
The local climber guy I talked to said that he had talked to the Limestone company
that owned Woodland. He said that they are not against climbing at Woodland wall.
They are taking a don't ask, don't tell approach. As long as there are no problems
from climbing, (Lawsuits, major injuries ect) then they will just let things as they
are.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Sounds like good news indeed. Based on this information, there is a reason we haven't heard of more enforcement.
|
|
|
|
|
migelpalmero
Jun 26, 2007, 1:47 PM
Post #1214 of 2156
(9721 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 20, 2006
Posts: 20
|
parking seems to be the issue at many closed crags... Spruce hollow for example... by sheer chance I talked to the woman who owns the land where the rocks are located years back and she said she didnt care if we climbed there and that she knew there was a long history of climbing there, but neighbors kept calling the local police because parked cars were making the road dangerous to navigate, so the police asked her to post the rocks cause they were getting sick of having to come and ask people to move their cars... shame just a little common sense would have kept that crag open... funny how stories about closings get distorted though, I had heard that security guards and police had been kicking climbers out of Spruce Hollow for years and had gone as far as arresting a climber... but the woman said there's no way she could ever afford a security guard and she had never ever called police to kick anybody out...climbers or partyers... and that I was only the second person to ever talk to her about climbing there... local access fund the first? I hope...
|
|
|
|
|
truello
Jun 27, 2007, 1:43 PM
Post #1215 of 2156
(9683 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2006
Posts: 737
|
Sounds like an easy enough "solution", however unfortunately we are only a fraction of the people climbing at the areas. There are always those considerate to the landowners, and those who screw it up for everyone else due to their own negligence.
This thread has been pretty slow lately.. I hope that means everyone's been getting out. Had an excellent weekend at the New. The weather was just right and didn't seem to get hit by the bugs too badly.
What has everyone else been up to?
|
|
|
|
|
microbarn
Jun 27, 2007, 8:04 PM
Post #1216 of 2156
(9677 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
|
Good to hear about your trip to the New.
It has been a slow thread lately.
Good news is that the weather and non-climbing activities are letting me do a lot of climbing. The bad news is that funds are not infinite. I am on the fence about going out on Saturday.
If I go, it will be somewhere local. If I stay here, I may decide to do some work. I have to graduate someday...
This coming month is the beginning of the summer heat and weddings. I am not looking forward to July and August. I suppose I am now at the age where all of my friends start getting married.
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Jun 27, 2007, 8:21 PM
Post #1217 of 2156
(9674 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
Okay, those that are willing can suffer through the following mini-TR:
My wife and I took our lad (10 months old) on his first climbing outing on {edit: Saturday}. We met up at Coopers with one of my partners, his wife, and their 3.5 year old daughter. We went to Sunset, which was absolutely free when we showed up. We toproped a few routes before it got a bit too crowded. My wife climbed for the first time since before her pregnancy and surgery to remove a neuroma. While she didn't climb much, she made it look easy.
My friend convinced me to lead a route, which I wasn't really planning on. I wasn't climbing well for most of the day, and this route was no exception. A bit of falling and hanging on gear ensued, which hasn't happened in a good while. I told myself that I clearly demonstrated my proficiency in placing solid pro. I think we proved we're ready for Seneca in a couple weeks, if only on easier routes.
(This post was edited by markc on Jun 28, 2007, 1:26 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
microbarn
Jun 27, 2007, 8:31 PM
Post #1218 of 2156
(9669 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
|
sounds like a great day with the family
I am always more tentative about leading at coopers. I don't think I am up for the sparse gear placements that can occur. Have you done the route before? Were you aware of the pro? Or are you a person that can pick a line that looks about right and fire it off?
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Jun 28, 2007, 1:24 PM
Post #1219 of 2156
(9647 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
microbarn wrote: I am always more tentative about leading at coopers. I don't think I am up for the sparse gear placements that can occur. Have you done the route before? Were you aware of the pro? Or are you a person that can pick a line that looks about right and fire it off?
What's funny is that I primarily brought my rack to more easily rig routes at the far end of the large block. I wasn't really thinking of leading anything, and mentioned to my partner that I'm not a big fan of leading at Coopers. The routes are so short that you really have to space gear closely, and by the time you're getting into the flow, you've topped out. Some of the routes can be thinner on gear, but this wasn't one of them.
I toproped the route a number of years ago, and I've never led it that I can recall. I'd say I rarely 'fire off' any route, and flailed my way up this one in more spectacular a form than usual. I managed to fall before placing pro (and thanked my partner for a good spot), and shortly after the first piece. I think I hung on a couple other pieces, and generally climbed like shit. I already knew I wasn't too focused or climbing great, but I let myself get talked into it pretty easily.
|
|
|
|
|
chronicle
Jun 28, 2007, 2:47 PM
Post #1220 of 2156
(9635 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 664
|
MarkC - A great sequence at Seneca is 1st pitch of Le Gourmet, Front C, Critter Crack. I don't know what your abilities are, how long you've been leading, etc., but at some point, you should consider firing that off. My first lead was Ecstasy Junior. The first pitch has good gear placement, the second pitch I always end up running it out, but it's pretty easy. Good luck on your forays at Seneca.
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Jun 28, 2007, 3:12 PM
Post #1221 of 2156
(9630 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
chronicle wrote: MarkC - A great sequence at Seneca is 1st pitch of Le Gourmet, Front C, Critter Crack. I don't know what your abilities are, how long you've been leading, etc., but at some point, you should consider firing that off. My first lead was Ecstasy Junior. The first pitch has good gear placement, the second pitch I always end up running it out, but it's pretty easy. Good luck on your forays at Seneca.
Done and done, but thanks for the suggestion. One of my favorite series to the south summit is Candy Corner to the last two pitches of Skyline, then A Christian Delight to the traverse pitch of Old Ladies. From there, you can either finish up on Windy Corner or the last pitch of Old Ladies.
So long as there isn't a line, I prefer Ecstasy Jr. to the stairmaster any day of the week. My life and travels elsewhere have kept me away from Seneca for at least a season or two, so I'm looking forward to getting back to where I cut my teeth on multipitch.
I still have to shake the rust off, and I'm trying to lure down a friend to introduce him to multipitch climbing, so we'll be climbing pretty easy. I'm sorely tempted to take him up Gunsight to South Peak. Perhaps it's a little mean for those that don't like exposure, but the climbing is lots of fun.
|
|
|
|
|
chronicle
Jun 28, 2007, 3:48 PM
Post #1222 of 2156
(9624 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 664
|
Sorry, I thought from your previous post that this was going to be your first time leading at Seneca. My bad.
I've never done Gunsight to South Peak. Bill keeps telling me that I should. I guess I've been too focused on the 7s, 8s, and 9s that I've missed some of the really good casual routes. One of my goals this year is to climb some of those classic routes (Thais, Gunsight to South Peak, Conn's West, etc).
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Jun 28, 2007, 4:14 PM
Post #1223 of 2156
(9621 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
chronicle wrote: Sorry, I thought from your previous post that this was going to be your first time leading at Seneca. My bad. I've never done Gunsight to South Peak. Bill keeps telling me that I should. I guess I've been too focused on the 7s, 8s, and 9s that I've missed some of the really good casual routes. One of my goals this year is to climb some of those classic routes (Thais, Gunsight to South Peak, Conn's West, etc).
You're hitting my sweet spot with that list. Both Conn's West Direct and Conn's East are fun routes. A friend, my wife and I were rained off Thais on a very early trip to Seneca, and it's been on the list ever since. I'm slowly working on the 6s. Maybe Banana would be a good way to access GS to SP. Other priorities have kept me from pushing my limits on gear, but just cruising on the easy stuff is plenty of fun for me.
If you're pulling Seneca 9s, climbing some of the recommended 5.3 - 5.5 routes can practically be a rest day activity. It's amazing how much exposure Seneca can give you at lower grades.
|
|
|
|
|
tanderson
Jun 29, 2007, 1:04 AM
Post #1224 of 2156
(9604 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2000
Posts: 108
|
Interesting post re: Spruce Hollow. I didn't think I'd ever hear of that place again. I KNOW who owns the property and she has kicked people out on many, many, many occasions. Especially back in its popular days. i.e. Fred from Exkursion taking classes there in the early to mid 90's. There is definately a reason that place got shut down for good and its funny how most "local" climbers really don't know it. Stories do get twisted and here's a case right here. Regarding this extremely local crag for me... She's definately not climber friendly and the crag is still closed after all these years (at least to climbers). R.I.P. Spruce
|
|
|
|
|
victor999
Jun 29, 2007, 2:18 PM
Post #1225 of 2156
(9577 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2004
Posts: 195
|
Well, Claire and I finally made it to the Wall last night. (She got approval from her Doc to climb this week.) We climbed most of the Easy/Easy+s. Our goal was for her to climb and not re-injure herself, so it was a success. Although it sucks to be climbing only easy's. It's amazing how fast you get out of shape, especially the older you get! 
Anyway, we are heading to WV tonight. Plan on climbing at junkyard tomorrow. We'll have to see how her knee is feeling Saturday night before we decide what we're going to do sunday.
We'll be in Texas Wed-Fri, but we're thinking of doing easy stuff at Seneca the weekend after the 4th (7-8th). So that's our plans in a nutshell. We hope everyone else is getting in some great climbing!
V&C
|
|
|
|
|
|
