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angry
Jul 13, 2007, 10:20 PM
Post #1 of 19
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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In March, I was visiting my friend Kent, borrowing some Valley Giants because mine hadn't quite shown up yet. After a few beers he started talking about an injured shoulder that was going to effectively cut his spring climbing out. He talked about making up for it by climbing in Peru over the summer.
"Cool, that place sounds great, you'll have to tell me all about it"
"I meant that you should come with me"
"You do realize the only real thing I've done in the mountains was when I free soloed the Casual Route?"
"Yeah but you've done tri's and bike races and are in good enough shape"
"My old roommate dreamed of that place, I've always wanted to go. If you think I can handle it, I'll go."
At that, I was in. I was going to leave the country for the first time, see a glacier for the first time, climb higher than 14,000 for the first time, and even ride in an airplane for the first time. This was to be a one month trip, for the novelty of my first time doing this sort of thing, I decided to keep a journal of the month. The trip report that follows is that journal.
Before I left, most people who I talked to just assumed that I was going to Machu Picchu. I'm sure it's beautiful, but nothing could have been further from my itinerary.
I've bolded each day and given each day a title, that should allow you to skip to exciting days, or read only what interests you. I don't have pics yet. I'm developing some right now. I do leave for 3 more weeks on Monday, California rock climbing, I hope to post some pics before then.
June 15-16
Miami
The intended itenerary was to fly to Miami, then fly all night and get to Lima at 6:05 am, June 16.
It is now 6pm on June 16 and I'm still in Miami, we landed at 12:27 and our next flight left at 1:35. This is impossible because LAN has a rule that you must check in 2 hours before take off. This is a problem with Orbitz. The next flight offered is tonight at 1:35. As yet, we are unsure that we'll be on that flight, LAN seemed too disorganized to be assuring.
We took the bus to Miami beach. Miami is too hot and humid for me. In my Carharts, I just sweat all day. I feel very sticky and smelly. I can't wait until I see mountains again.
June 17
First stamp on a new passport
The flight went just as planned. I tried to sleep but the plane was crowded and I felt anxious for the upcoming days. We landed at 6:05 am in Lima. We needed to get to Movil Tours to get a bus to Huaraz. We took the first cab we were offered. It was the Ultra Luxury cab, $28 or 90 soles. This is probably like taking a limo in the states. This new Camry, with tariffs and all cost probably $40k or 100,000 soles. He got us to the bus station in time to catch the earliest bus. It was 35 soles, for an 8 hour ride.
I was scared to death of Lima. It was dirty and dark. People were living subsistence on shacks that I never imagined habitable. And the trash, it was everywhere. I've never seen anything even remotely like this.
June 18
Huaraz, Edward, and Mountains
We spent last night at Edwards hostel. Near as I can figure, Edward is at least 60, and looks maybe 40. He's climbed nearly every peak in the Cordillera Blanca and speaks good english. His rooms are comfortable and clean, he's got great pancakes and instant coffee for breakfast.
Today we met Dario, a friend of a friend, aspiring mountain guide, porter, speaks Chechuan (the native language of the burro drivers), English, and Spanish. He's a genuinely nice guy too.
We've got a ton of food for this trip, tomorrow we start the 10-12 day trek to climb Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Two somewhat technical neighboring peaks.
I'm noticing something about the Peruvian people. They are poor and they aren't all clean but they are a beautiful happy people. I don't see this in America, that look, that happy to be alive twinkle. Rich or poor, clean or dirty, it seems clear that the people of Huaraz are the better humans. We gringo's could learn a lot from them.
June 19
The Approach to Alpamayo
We woke up early and and assembled our massive pile of gear and food. We ate breakfast with Dario and were off. As we got further and further from Huaraz the mountains got bigger. They just loomed. The country side is packed with history of people who've lived here for so long. Old rock walls, and mud brick buildings, who knows how old.
We got there and Dario talked to the donkey drivers. Soon we were on the trail. Tallijiraju stared at me the whole hike. It's summit requires rock, aid, mixed ice, and deadly cornices and seracs. We arrived at Llama Coral for our first night.
Dario and the donkey driver cooked dinner. Rice, veggies, and Cuy (Guinea Pig). Cuy is small, not much meat. It's the kind of thing you have to pick and gnaw the meat off with your teeth. I just couldn't do it. I tried, but I just couldn't. Kent however, loved the Cuy.
June 20
We see the mountain
After a quick breakfast, we're off. I'm so much more at ease with this mountain air. No smells, no horns, no alarms. It's great. As we start hiking I'm immediately struck by how much the donkey drivers love their job. The donkeys are pets and friends to them. I had a hard time keeping up today. We got up to 14,000 feet and had a lot of switch backs. I don't feel out of shape, just slow. I can run or saunter, I don't keep a good hiking pace, so this is tough on me.
We got some incredible views of the non-climbing side of Alpamayo and Quitaruju. We arrive at base camp and it's just amazing. I'm relaxed but we're at 14,300 and it's going to get higher. Acclimitization wise, I'm ok. I've got an on/off headache but I'm not too out of breath. With the prep I did for this trip, (non I just climbed cracks all spring), I'm not doing too bad. Tomorrow, we camp at the base of the glacier at 16,000ft. It's the highest I'll have ever been.
June 21
Up to Morraine Camp
We decided that it would be best to carry everything up to Morraine camp. Climbing gear, cooking gear, tents, sleeping gear, clothes, food, everything. To save bulk, we also did the hike wearing the plastic boots. Probably about 75lbs on my shoulders, whatever, it was the heaviest and most off balance load I've ever shouldered. I almost couldn't stand under it's weight. One small step after another, I slowly made it up. It was the biggest and worst "switchback" thing I've ever seen. Snow was falling the whole time. In about 4 hours I got to Morraine camp, exhausted. I only managed to go up 2000ft in 1-2 miles in 4 hours. That trail sucks!!
The weather is spotty at best now. There is snow and there is a chance Alpamayo will be unclimbable. The news from other is that Quitaraju is just a bunch of avalanches and is not possible at all in it's condition.
I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed by my fatigue right now. In my racing days I could bounce back after a hard day. Of course that was in a hotel room with lots of food and a soft bed. Hopefully this comes around too. I'm concerned that Alpamayo may be too much too soon.
June 22
My first glacier
Today was an acclimitization day. Just some hiking on the glacier but we aren't spending the night any higher than morraine camp. This is neat. I've never seen anything like this before. The holes and cravasses are so alien to me. Sometimes it gets steep enough to front point or swing an axe, but mostly it's just steep walking. The crevasses remind me of the cave Luke Skywalker was in with that snow monster.
I didn't feel bad but I was slow up there. Every step brings me higher than I've been before. I'm definately a little off. If I was in race shape, I would probably be a little better but it's just so different than this, that I really don't know. Kent came on this trip in the best shape I've ever seen him in, so we aren't well matched at the moment. I'm having the time of my life regardless, but I'm realizing that I'm ill prepared for this.
June 23
Col camp and the Squirts
We headed up to Col camp today, but not before I got some nasty diarrea. Several panic shits, some Immodium Ad, a drug called Cipro, and a strict diet of American food (powerbars) and I was ready to climb.
I carried a 50lb pack and felt good. Still not running but I could poke along well enough. Finally, I got to put away the ice axe and grab my short tools. I wanted the lead and got it. 3 pitches of ice and steep snow over the col and we'll be at high camp. The first pitch is 10-15 feet of vertical ice followed by 100 feet of 60 degree ice and snow. In Colorado with no pack, no problem. At 17,700 and 50lbs on my back, it was wicked. I used only 3 screws on lead, up high I found a seat, wailed in a picket and my axe, and was off belay. Panting. I felt near vomiting the entire lead. I brought the other guys up who felt similar.
Then, THEY appeared. Out of the rays of the Andean sun, the local rockstars showed up. Three of them, superguides. So strong they could haul their clients up the route if needed.
The first one came up to at my belay, gave a polite Incan smile and brought his client up. We wasn't even breathing yet. He had probably held his breath from Cashapampa.
Next was a little guy, free solo, no gloves, with several ropes over his shoulders, moving faster than I've ever seen someone climb ice. He fixed his rope and ran off to fix more (most clients jumar and prossic technical sections).
The second pitch was easy, just steep snow with good steps.
I started up the third pitch, not hard, but there is the elevation still. All hell broke loose, for one of only a few times in my life, I was climbing for my life. Big ass pack, 17,850', and now it gets interesting. I got a screw in right off the deck. Up higher, there wasn't good screw ice and I couldn't reach my pickets. Then a mini biner I use for my leashes flipped over the hammer and got stuck. On lead and winded, I couldn't fix it, I had to choke up about 4" on that tool. Shortly after, the guide above me dropped a rope on me. It tangled with my pack and I couldn't free myself of it. All this on a 200ft lead with the only protection 15' up, every move higher than I'd ever been before. Fighting like a dog, I finished the pitch, effectively saving my life. I was on top...of the approach.
Once we had our tent up in the snow, superstar 3 showed up. He carried a massive pack plus all the lines all the other guides had fixed for their clients that day. In total, there were three parties attempting Alpamayo the next day. Us, a swiss guy with a guide, and 3 old French women with 2 guides. Quitaraju it was obvious, was unclimbable currently.
June 24
Summit Day
With 3 of us crammed into a 2 person tent, we woke up at 12:30. Half an hour before the alarm. For the first time, in the moonlight, I saw the face of Alpamayo. The clouds seemed to be gone for now. Around 2 we set off with the guided groups just ahead of us. As we walked I dreaded the bottleneck ahead of us, but at least I felt good.
Soon I saw headlamps twinkling down. The French women and guides were bailing. Not surprising, as a guide with them I'd be looking for any excuse to bail too. Next the swiss guy and guide headed up. Soon after, we were behind them. Kent's lead. He stopped and called for some pickets, odd since the route is supposed to take all screws. He finally set a belay and Dario and I joined him. It was ALL snow. The next lead was mine, I didn't bother taking screws, this was a snowy affair. I had one picket I planned to use as an anchor at the end of my rope and headed up. Kinda like Snake Dike or a Flatiron in snow. Basically soloing between belays.
Soon I found a piece of cord sticking out of the snow. Probably attached to a picket but who knows. I happily clipped it. There was some commotion above us and Dario translated. The guide above was bailing. Something about too much snow and avalanchy conditions. A quick conversation between Kent and I and we decided to bail. Who were we to continue when 3 of the most badass locals we'd ever seen were backing off. We rapped off the mystery cord and hiked back to Col camp. Before first light a blizzard had settled into Alpamayo and I never caught another view. We hiked down that day, all the way back to 14,300 base camp. It's a shame really, I almost felt good up there and the mountain was beautiful. I don't know when, but sometime in my life I need to climb that mountain.
June 25
Civilization
In a big push we hiked the 14 or so miles down to Cashapampa and took a cab back to Huaraz. Even on the hike back we were talking about our next mountain. Hauscaran Sur at over 6700meters is the tallest in Peru and probably 5th tallest outside of the Himilaya. It dominates the views of the Cordillera Blanca. It's not as technical but it's huge and beautiful. I think this may be our next choice.
June 26
Light and Fast
I am still sore from the last trip and leaving for another tomorrow. Just Kent and I, we've paid Dario and now feel like it's time to climb alone. We're hoping to go trailhead to trailhead in 4 days (D2D, donkey to donkey).
The town of Huaraz is fast. I'm a small town Wyoming kid at heart. Even though I live near Denver, hustle and bustle ties me up in knots. I got some gifts and got out. I like the mountains, at least there I won't get ran over by a bus or cab.
June 27
Death Slabs
We arranged a taxi to Musho and got there around 10:00. We each carried only one heavy pack. Doable, but heavy. For the sake of energy we got a burro to carry our packs to base camp. 2 burros. We are able to carry as much as a burro, damn right. We got to base camp, 14,500 or so, paid the burro driver, and repacked the bags. Then we scrambled up to morraine camp. We must have been off route, this was way hard. There were even old bolts in the rock and possibly a piton scar or two. Whatever, I know how to climb rock.
Morraine camp is approx. 16,000 and shares property with a huge building. From the looks of it, it is a clubhouse built by Austrians or Germans. I have no clue what the thing is really. It reminds me of a private hunting lodge, really I have no idea what the thing is.
I feel good, at 16,000ft, I can breathe. I hope that means I'm ready for this.
June 28
Relax
So far, this is the most relaxing day of the trip. Sleeping in the sun and enjoying being under this giant. Here is the plan, leave at 5pm and pass both high camps. We should be standing on the summit at daybreak. 6000 feet vertical, starting at 16,000 and down.
June 29
Blinded by the Height
While technically the 28th, we started up. By 6pm we are at the glacier. It's steep and I can't move fast (seems to be a theme for me in Peru) but we're moving right along. By the time we pass Camp 1 the wind is blowing hard. It's awesome to be out at night with this full moon though. Soon though, we have all our extra clothes on, it's cold. The wind is howling and I only have dark glasses, at night I don't have anything for my eyes.
There is some really pleasant climbing up the glacier. It's a hoot with only a long axe and no pro. By now, the winds have erased all signs of a trail. We have that moment - this way or that way? Kent headed up, it seemed logical. I follow and find him belaying in a little alcove. His plan is to turn the corner and see what he sees. We're clearly off route. We turns the corner and 60m later he hollers that he's off. I follow and come across an exquisite face of 60 degree packed snow. Utterly untouched. In nearly 200ft Kent hadn't placed a single thing, all climbing with one non-technical axe. Badass and bold, not hard, just badass and bold in a windstorm at night on a peak we'd never been on. I get to him and he's built a bollard and backed it up with an ice screw in packed snow. Bitchin'.
I'm a little (a lot) scared so it's his lead again, this time it's straight left for 200 more feet. Lots of traversing and careful climbing and I see him place one screw, 150' away from me and finishes traversing. Following the line, I notice a lot more ice than snow. I'm kicking hard and swinging my one too hard. I get to the screw and it's in thick ice, damn hard too. I need several swings to get a good stick. No styrofoam here, this is ice. WI, AI, whatever, it's no place for a long non-technical tool. I survive though, just as Kent did. Once too him I find a welcome sight. Some easy traversing and we're at the Garganta, back on route. We bypassed camp 2 completely.
About now, 20,000ft or so, I note that my right eye is blurry. With the headache I've got I ask Kent to watch me for HACE, though I think it's just the wind.
Back on route and waaay up there, I'm tired. Hit by truck, mauled by badgers, beat up by ninja's, and given GHB tired. I go up to the final technical section. The climbing is easy, a lot easier than what we just experienced but I'm crawling. I simply cannot summon the energy to climb well up this 45 degree slope. After a few hundred feet, the snow gets soft and untrod again, I'm clearly on top of a giant crevass too. I find a safe spot and bring Kent up, but not before dropping my headlamp. No worries though, I can't even see out of one eye and the other is blurry. It's not like it was helping me.
After some exploration, Kent goes ahead and finds something promising. As he sets up, my seat half crumbles and I half fall into a crevass. Not bad though, I crawl out. The trouble is that my axe fell in too, and is in a much worse part, where we can't climb down and get it. With delicate rope trickery, we retrieve it. Good thing, it's borrowed. Kent's route doesn't pan out, he's about to try something else when it hits me. I'm mostly blind, exhausted, hypothermic, and even if he finds the way, I don't have what it takes to get down. About 15 more meters of technical climbing and probably less that 1000 feet below the summit, I had to bail. Kent knew it too, but had to wait until I said it.
On the hike down, I grab my headlamp, still shining, and we go slowly. I'm all but blind. I can only see some light through my right eye and some blurry shapes through my left. Using the rope as a trail, Kent gets me down. On rappels I set up intuitively. Everything is manual, it's very interesting but definately scary on the mountain. At one point I hear an odd sound and some sliding. I never see anything go (I can't see) but know that my headlamp had just popped off my head and raced to a crevass. Bye.
Once off the glacier, then even worse, rockhopping down the morraine boulders blind, we get back to camp. Now way down at 16,000ft my energy returned fast. I was tired but OK, it's funny the tricks altitude can play. We set up camp, even though there was plenty of time to hike out, I couldn't do it blind. It would have to wait till tomorrow. 5pm to 11am, all climbing and descending. 4-500meters from doing what takes most people a week or more to do. I feel good about the effort, though the top would have been sweet.
June 30
Carmelo Mister?
I wake up and see, everything. My eyes are a bit puffy but I can see. Snow, ice, wind, and maybe dehydration blinded me. A good night sleep and I can see again. We walk out and are swarmed by the local farmers asking for candy. Another tried to buy my rope for 20 soles. No burro's, just legs. In town and back at Edwards, I start looking for a headlamp. This place is like 70% night climbing. I can't just go without a headlamp. A shop has a Tikka for $60 or 200 soles. I'd bend over and take it but I don't even like that lamp. A little more shopping doesn't provide any alternative. As I'm contemplating spending double retail on something I don't want, I see a little shop. Batteries, flashlights...they have a total crap LED headlamp for 20 soles. SOLD!!! It even has AAA batteries, I've got those at the hostel. That and a churro makes for a great evening.
July 1
Alpamayo?
I heard about a coffee waffle place, not Americanized, that sounded cool. It was closed. Instead I found another traditional place and had a great omelet, pancaque with honey, and the Peruano (Peruvian I now know, is incorrect) waitress is just gorgeous.
We get some conditions in the mountains and it looks like Alpamayo is experiencing good weather. One guy even told us that no-one is there right now but it's going to be crowded really soon. With that, we finish packing. It's back to Alpamayo tomorrow. We'll attempt the light and fast style we almost pulled off on Hauscaran Sur.
I have never climbed in the mountains before, I love it, but I'm really looking forward to climbing rock, in a t-shirt, in the daylight. I am going to the Needles and Yosemite a day after I get home, so I'm not freaking out.
July 2
I know that guy
On the cab I ate some funky meat pies and was at the trailhead by 7:30. We had a list of names of potential burro drivers. A guy hanging around seemed like he knew them, but couldn't offer any advice as to where to find them. So finally I asked in my best Spanglish, if he drove burros. Bingo, that's what he was looking for. Cashapampa to Alpamayo is a 3 day trip, no matter how long it takes. We agreed to pay him for 3 days, but we needed to be there tonight. No problem, 14 miles in a day but no packs. Sweet. The donkey driver even headed back down, we didn't even need to feed him or put him up for the night. Perfect.
July 3
Wyoming
We'll leave basecamp around 4 this afternoon and we will have the mountain entirely to ourselves. I'm growing to love these lazy days, laying in the sun at elevations higher than the top of Colorado. It's so easy to just chill at 14,000ft here.
I'm thinking about home right now. Not Colorado, but home, Wyoming. July 3 means all the fireworks stands are in full swing. Balloons, clowns, gorilla suits, etc. The strawberry are about ripe in my parents garden. My little brother is probably working at scout camp. It's nice and all, the familiarity is reassuring. Tomorrow night will be signalling that if you haven't started living your summer, you're behind. I'll be asleep by then, hopefully in success.
July 4
The theme of your summer
Today started at 4pm on July 3rd. We got our gear together at base camp and went for it. Though light, our packs weren't empty. We carried warm clothes, boots, ice tools, ice screws, pickets, ropes, helmets, powerbars, and I brought a Coke. After a couple hours we had made the 2000' gain to the glacier. Cool, I'm not too tired. We got dressed and started up. By 7:30 (it gets dark at 6) we were at the vertical section below the col. The same section that was so epic a couple weeks ago. Fair is fair and this time it was Kent's lead. Following it, I felt comfortable. I was breathing easy and enjoying the climb. Amazing how fitness and acclimitization can change things. Last time, this felt like the climb of my life, this time they were casual.
At the Col, it was cold. Any clothes we weren't wearing went on. We walked past the deserted glacier camp and soon we were heading up toward the same route we'd recently bailed on. After a moment of off routedness we were once again at the bergshrund. My lead, the bergshrund was powder and above a deep cravasse. I scrambled, scared, and sphincter puckered and got to it. In front of me, guarding the route was the edge of the bergshrund. It had collapsed further and what remained was overhanging fluff. My tools just sliced out. It was too steep to get a foot in. I'm all about ethics and doing things free, but sometimes it's 12:30 in the morning at 19,000 ft, and you've got an idea. I drove a picket in horizontally, moved up and drove another a little higher. I pulled on the thing and voila, moderate climbing. One point of aid and we were on the route.
What followed was nine pitches, 1000feet of steep snow and ice. 2 pitches of snow like we'd previewed and 7 pitches of ice. This was the best ice I'd ever placed a screw in, every screw all the way to the hanger. I think the screws were actually bomber. Yep, on this ice, screw and bomber fit together in the same sentence. Belay = warm feet and cold body. Climbing = cold feet and warm body. My toes and hands probably repeated the barfies 9 times.
At 7pm we both sat on the summit and let the sun warm out backs as it peeked over the horizon. I was half blind again but squinting through my good eye I cought views of patternoster lakes, more mountains, more valleys, and the sun slowly lighting it all up. I could just make out base camp far below. I drank my slushy Coke and wished Kent a happy July 4th. He mentioned that whatever you are doing on July 4th sets the theme for your summer. I thought about that and found for me, that this is almost infallable. Amazing. Sitting on top of Alpamayo, I have no doubt that this is the theme for my summer. It's so amazing to have this mountain to ourselves. No-one is in sight anywhere.
Six rope stretching rappels and we're down. All the anchors were there already, old melted out V-threads, some pickets, some old screws, one anchor resembled an octopus. Finished, we worked our way down. Some Spaniards coming up knew what we'd done and congratulated us. Soon we saw more people, they asked for beta,
"Cuantas Dias?"
"Uno"
Wierd looks resulted. Clearly we gringo's didn't understand the question.
"Cuantos dias campo uno?" pointing to the col.
"No" I pointed at base camp, then at the top of the mountain, then back to base camp and said
"una dia, viente dos horas"
They rolled their eyes and walked off. Frustrated that these gringos couldn't communicate clearly. No way had we climbed base camp to base camp in a day. Something must be lost in the translation.
Back at camp and for the first time of the trip I started thinking about more trips to Peru. What would I do next trip. Peru was finally working for me and there's so much more to climb.
July 5
So fast?
By 7am the burros were packed and we were headed back to Cashapampa. 14 miles later we were there and loading our stuff onto a colectivo. Watching the scenery roll by, watching the exhaust come through the floorboards, and watching the Israeli girl's breast jiggle on the rough road, I'm happy. The Toyota minivan swelled to as many as 19 passengers. The first thing Edward said was "So fast?". About nothing makes me happier than raising the eye of such an accomplished climber. We've got a few days left. Time for another mountain.
July 6
What about Peru
I've spent most of my time writing about climbing and the general torment of mountaineering. But what about Peru?
Peru is a different place. The streets are dirty but never get dirtier. The showers are sometimes hot but usually aren't. Then there are the gringo's. Touristas like me. nameless and faceless, we have some most Peruano's don't. Money. In America, I'm poor. I don't own anything of value except climbing gear, I don't make enough money to change that either. At 1 to 3.15 I'm loaded here. People live subsistence. Very few get dressed for a day at the office. As a gringo, I've seen people push through a crowd to get me a flyer. I'm rich you see.
Prices change, 1 sole, 2 soles, whatever they think I'll pay. And at the biggest rip off, it's still a bargain. Most things cost about 1/6 american. Though it's hard to compare because it is so different.
I've been fascinated with yucca since a trip into the Grand Canyon 10 years ago. I saw yucca stalks 15 feet tall and as thick as my wrist. Here the stalks are thicker than my ley and taller than many trees.
In my time here, I haven't seen a McDonalds, Starbucks, or any store American. It may exist in Lima, but Huaraz is better without this. Everything is presumably family owned, cheapest off a vender sitting on the sidewalk. CocaCola has a strong hold but that's the only thing American I see here. It is bottled in Peru though.
On my way home, I'll stop at Goodtimes and get a Big Daddy Bacon cheeseburger and I won't question the meat. Once home, I'll fill a glass with water and drink it. The next morning I'll get a good coffee at the Noa Noa and a breakfast burrito at Santiago's. It's going to feel strange. I haven't seen my phone in almost a month.
July 7
The Strike
A seemingly wonderful day. We got packed for one more mountain. It's going to be Hauscaran Sur again. I'm bringing some safety glasses for the night, I feel great. I'm ready this time.
Politics. I can't even pretend to understand what's going on here. Lately, whatever it is has been escalating. I've seen several marches. Three in a day sometimes. There's an increased police pressence too. On the way back from Alpamayo, rocks had been scattered all over the road, nearly stopping traffic. Three issues are at play, I know I'm missing the details.
1. Nurses are or have been on strike. I saw nurses walking in and out of the hospital today though, I'm assuming this is resolved.
2. Teacher Accountability. There was a test for teachers here and 4 teachers in the country passed. With such a test so clearly off of the median, naturally it becomes a heated issue. What do you do though, fire the teachers or accept a lower standard of education? No good answers here.
3. The prices in Peru are going up. The Sole is gaining power but prices are rising. That's a developing country. The people are feeling squeezed.
There will be a country wide transportation strike on the 11-12th. No cabs, no busses, and the businesses will shut their doors. Imagine if the US did that? It would bring the country to it's knees. We are planning on coming back from Hauscaran on the 11th. We need to be to the Lima airport on the 13th. It's a little unnerving.
We are going to try to hike out on the 10th even though we summit that day (fingers crossed) to get to Huaraz and weather this with Edward. The strike needs to be over for us to get to Lima and to eat. The buses will be overcrowded to make up for the two days off. It's just time to go climbing and worry about this later.
July 8
Clouds?
This morning we looked up to Hauscaran and saw a few clouds. The first we'd seen in a week. Hmm, lets go anyway. By 8:30 we'd managed to Spanglish ourselves a a burro driver and we were off. Once I got warmed up I felt great. Kent felt good too. By noon we unloaded the burro's and started the slabby approach up to 16,000 ft. No problem, we avoided the death slabs and got right up. Then I felt something "shit" then another "shit! Kent, I just felt a raindrop." He knew it too.
Hauscaran was semi socked in, but at least we had 24 hours before the climb. Once at the camp we relaxed but not for long. It started a rain snow mix and got heavy. It was too warm and the snow melted, making everything wet. We crawled under the fly (no tent, we hadn't planned on rain) to try to stay dry. The downpour punished us for going light. Just before dark it cleared up enough to eat dinner comfortably.
We hopped under the tarp and into our down bags as it started to snow more. It was about 6pm and it wouldn't be light for 12 hours. With no tent, wet, at 16,000 feet would we stay warm? Hauscaran hadn't been visible for most of the day.
July 9
Responsible Mountaineers
Morning came very slowly. I slept a few hours and did manage to stay warm but I was damp, my clothes were damp, and my bag was soaked. At first light, we looked up to Hauscaran. It wasn't there. Completely shrouded in clouds. For the few moments it cleared, we could see lots of fresh snow balanced on the slopes we'd be hiking below. The responsible decision was made, something we didn't even want to talk about. We had a 24 climb ahead of us, the route would be erased by snow, it was typically windy up there, and the route would vary between full whiteout and low visibility. We had wet down bags to comfort us if we returned.
There was no choice, people die on this mountain. We had to pack up and walk down. Hauscaran wouldn't be possible. There wasn't time. Several hours later, a ride back to Huaraz, looking over from Edwards, we could see the weather was even worse. We had made the right decision.
Down without time to climb another peak, bad weather, and an impending strike. We decided to leave early and try our luck standby at the airport. The locals have told me these strikes can get bad, no cars drive or people throw rocks at it, businesses can't open or people throw rocks. Several demonstrators are in jail. I'm not fearful, just nervous about getting back. With no more mountains, we might as well get home.
July 10
Lima
We left Huaraz today. I can't say that I'm happy to go. I hit the pastry shop one last time. While here I've been eating like I want to get type II diabetes. The mountains and the occasional bout of diarrea keep me lean.
I said goodbye to Edward and Dario, both of whom I'd like to see again. The giant mountains and the bright sun, like Colorado in hyper-reality without lightning.
Driving back I notice that I'm not shocked by the stark poverty. I'm not terrified of the locals and what diseases they've got. Lima isn't what I remember either. It's not so scary. Busy and foreign yes, I'm not scared here though.
We wrangle a cab to the airport and get on standby. I really hope we fly tonight. This airport is too small and too busy to spend the night here. The flight is full though. We don't make it and we've got to try to sleep here. Crowded, loud, and bright with 200lbs of gear. The luggage keeps us from leaving. Great.
July 11
The wait
With a Spanish dictionary in one hand and a Peruano dictionary in the other, I start to sort out what's going on.
-There is unquestionably a strike. From the airport, it seems voluntary. A taxi rolls through every few minutes vs. the traffic jam of taxi's yesterday. Businesses like restaurants are open. But not all of them.
-A protest parade of 12-30 thousand people is planned for downtown Lima.
-SUTEP is the driving force here. They are the advocates to the teachers. Anti-mining groups and anti-inflation groups are joining them in protest too.
-Tourist trains to Macchu Picchu are not running. There are barely any taxi's. I have no clue if we could have made it to Lima like this. I haven't seen a bus all day.
-Actions against smaller airports are planned but the 'presidente' has made it clear that Lima Intl. will not be affected or he'll use force. So aside from the pilots striking, this airport will fly.
On another note, while stranded here I'm people watching. By my estimation, easily half of the gringo's coming through Peru are here to convert, to save the godless souls, to spread the word of a white Jesus. Most of these missionaries are 15-17, white, affluent, wear matching mission statement shirts, and travel in groups of 20-40. There are a lot of these groups.
This really gets under my skin. Who are these gringos to proselitize? Scholars? No, they are kids on vacation who instead of trying to learn about a culture or study it's beauty, come over to push their values and beliefs. This is at the urging of a few adults who are pushing their values and beliefs on these kids. There was a day when the occasional missionary got eaten, or his head shrunk, or poisoned with a dart. If this practice continued, it might cause the kids to evaluate their beliefs.
Later that day
The flight is overbooked. Worse yet, we are #3 and #4 for standby. It doen't look like we're flying today. I'm not going to spend the next 3 days here. If I don't get on tonight, I'm going to a hostel and sleeping until friday night, when my plane leaves. This airport is simply not a place to relax.
The endless wait has opened me up for some self examination. I now know I couldn't handle solitary confinement. I'm also pretty sure I couldn't handle weeks in a tent waiting for a good weather window. I'd have to eat my partner for entertainment.
Today I saw pictures of Lima hostels online today. The odd part was that the sun was shining in the pictures. I haven't seen the sun since leaving Huaraz. Lima is cold and foggy. I'd give 5:1 odds that I won't see the California sun tomorrow either.
July 12
Airborne
It's only been the 12th for a few hours. Despite the worries, and the off chance of making a flight, I'm at 32,000ft making the final approach to LAX. We finally caught a break. I'm ending the trip report here, back in the U.S. the rest is easy.
(This post was edited by angry on Jul 13, 2007, 10:50 PM)
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puerto
Jul 13, 2007, 11:23 PM
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Great read!
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grover
Jul 13, 2007, 11:49 PM
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Damn Dude.
I believe that was the longest post I've ever read, and for good reasons.
Bad-Ass, first alpine in Peru.
SAweeT.
A bro was in Peru in June and found conditions to warm for what they were after.
Sounds like you had a blast eh?
Can't wait for more.
waiting....!!!
Haha...
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angry
Jul 13, 2007, 11:52 PM
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Not just the first alpine in Peru, my first alpine, ever.
Pics and a summary will be up before I leave (I'm going to Cali to climb on Monday for 3 more weeks) but not today. I need to pack.
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Basta916
Jul 14, 2007, 1:08 AM
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great story...keep them coming....
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philbox
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Jul 14, 2007, 10:09 AM
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Whoa angry, great read mate and I can't wait to see the pics. I hope you took heaps of them. Stick em all up on flickr and crop a few excellent ones on this site.
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reno
Jul 14, 2007, 1:34 PM
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Good stuff.... thanks for writing the report.
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trebork2
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Jul 15, 2007, 2:02 PM
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Ah man do I need a vacation now. Tired of working!!! Great report... can't wait for the photos!
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andypro
Jul 15, 2007, 3:30 PM
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Fantastic read. Best in a long time on here... However, it threw me into a jealous rage and I killed 37.4 trees, a barn, and two fences with my quarks. I cant wait for the pictures...but I fear for my surroundings.... 
--Andy P
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sungam
Jul 15, 2007, 4:09 PM
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Dude, that is fucking truck.
-Magnus
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charley
Jul 15, 2007, 4:12 PM
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Hell of a read. Can't wait for the pics.
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i.am.charlie
Jul 15, 2007, 6:49 PM
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 a waitress would be peruana
y tambien, se habla quechua
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gymbo
Jul 16, 2007, 4:41 PM
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That was a great trip report. I agree about the people of Peru, they do seem very happy overall and definitely have a very healthy spark of life no matter what their situation.
A couple of things struck me about Peru that I didn't see you mention, but I'm wondering if you noticed. First of all even though we were hiking through areas with a lot of livestock, it never really smelled like it. I don't know if it was the altitude or something else. (we were hiking around 12,000 to 14,500 on our trip)
The other thing that struck me is that when we were out on our trek we never heard or saw airplanes flying above us. Even though I get out to some remote areas in the states, I don't think I've ever had a time period when I didn't see or hear aircraft. It was wonderful to not have that annoyance and reminder of the outside world.
Thanks again for posting about your trip.
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dingus
Jul 16, 2007, 6:42 PM
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A most excellent report angry. Thanks a lot for posting it. I don't read a lot of TRs. I am damn glad I read yours.
Cheers
DMT
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j_ung
Jul 16, 2007, 7:37 PM
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It seems like you can't swing a dead cat around here these days without hitting a kickass trip report. And in a field of kickass trip reports, this one kicked mucho ass.
D2D... donkey to donkey... Haha! Great stuff.
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angry
Jul 16, 2007, 8:26 PM
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Thanks guys. I appreciate the feedback.
I'm currently at a friend's house in Vegas, soon to pick up my friend from the airport. We'll be to the needles by tonight.
So, ya, no pics. I shot film the whole trip and it's not developed. My friend shot digital, he might post up to this thread. Otherwise, I'll try to get the photo's up when I get back, 2-3 weeks.
And yes, I totally noticed the lack of planes, I heard maybe 5 total, in a month. The noise of the cabs, buses and collectivos honking made up for it though
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bbirtle
Jul 17, 2007, 10:24 AM
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Quality. Sounds like an epic trip to remember!
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dr_feelgood
Jul 18, 2007, 4:51 PM
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Good TR Angry. And you made it out mostly unscathed too.
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atg200
Jul 19, 2007, 2:42 AM
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Nice TR. Say hi to the sender for me. A few comments.
1. Lima has Tony Roma's, TGI Fridays, and all kinds of other depressing shit like that. Seems like most other places in Peru are blessedly free of that though - i've been everywhere and never really noticed it. Peru is a good place to bum around as long as you avoid the tourist traps like Cuzco.
2. The Lima airport is near the top of my list of worst airports to spend time in - its like a giant bus station. I've been in the same situation as you there, and it is hateful.
3. Strikes in Peru are epic. I got stranded up at a mine near Cajamarca for a few days when the locals(stirred up by asshole environmental NGOs) got riled up and started pushing boulders into the road. Very unpleasant - no showers and leftover food for days while only the bigwigs got choppered down to town. The strikes didn't affect decision makes a bit, but really pissed off the regular workers. It was a bad idea to be in a bar lookig like a dreadlocked hippie with a greenpeace patch on your denim jacket for a long time after that in the area. There was also a nasty teacher's strike in Cuzco and riots bad enough in the Lake Titicaca area that I changed my travel plans, and I seldom do that.
4. If you ever get the chance, catch a Lima to Cajamarca flight on a clear day. You go frighteningly close to the Blanca and the Huayhuash - most spectacular flight i have ever taken, and it was my weekly commute for months. That kinda spoiled me.
Proud first alpine trip for sure. Nice read.
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