|
omalavet
Jul 25, 2007, 1:26 AM
Post #1 of 28
(5093 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2007
Posts: 91
|
I was climbing in My country of Puerto Rico. the route was on the beach and is like an old route 5.10 with two bolts no anchor at the top 30ft. i saw this bolt ... i wonder how many people will trust this bolt...???
|
|
Attachments:
|
IMG_0045.jpg
(139 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
abock33
Jul 25, 2007, 1:33 AM
Post #2 of 28
(5084 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2004
Posts: 131
|
I'd trust it, but I'd try not to fall on it. The other look the same? IMO It is probably from the salt and is ok but thats my opinion.
What size is the head of bolt looks "newer".
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Jul 25, 2007, 1:36 AM
Post #3 of 28
(5076 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
That looks like a pretty good example of galvanic corrosion, and as such may well be even worse than it looks.
|
|
|
|
|
omalavet
Jul 25, 2007, 1:38 AM
Post #4 of 28
(5070 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2007
Posts: 91
|
both bolt look the same...and i think if anyone trust it maybe you have to think falling on it may happend...
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Jul 25, 2007, 1:40 AM
Post #5 of 28
(5063 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
get an X-ray machine and scan the rock to see how bad it is.
if you can not get an x-ray then change them both.
|
|
|
|
|
climbingtrash
Jul 25, 2007, 1:53 AM
Post #6 of 28
(5040 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114
|
YAR! I'd replace those things in a second! Looks like that cliff is the perfect candidate for glue-in bolts.
|
|
|
|
|
flint
Jul 25, 2007, 2:04 AM
Post #7 of 28
(5020 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 21, 2007
Posts: 543
|
If I was dead set on climbing it, I would clip it, and put a crash pad at the bottom. 30 ft is a high ball boulder problem. Looks like there were some pockets in the stone, if so, tri-cams and go.
Be good to the rest of the community and replace them or find someone who will.
(This post was edited by flint on Jul 25, 2007, 2:06 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
omalavet
Jul 25, 2007, 2:20 AM
Post #8 of 28
(4990 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2007
Posts: 91
|
yeap i didnt now this place i just went there.. because i fount it in the routes here...but i will go there againg and replace them i dit not have the tools at the time... but any way it is a super nice place.. and yea you can do a higball....but the crux is like a 27 feet...and im not doing that jejeje..
(This post was edited by omalavet on Jul 25, 2007, 2:47 AM)
|
|
Attachments:
|
IMG_0032 22-21-51.jpg
(118 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
el_layclimber
Jul 25, 2007, 2:26 AM
Post #9 of 28
(4977 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2006
Posts: 550
|
From what I know, streaked rust on the surface of the rock is a bad sign. Especially if it is coming from under the hanger, this is an indication that there is rust down the shaft of the bolt and in the sleeve, not just on the outer surface of the bolt's head.
|
|
|
|
|
rob729
Jul 25, 2007, 3:01 AM
Post #10 of 28
(4928 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2006
Posts: 8
|
hell no |
|
|
|
|
chalkfree
Jul 25, 2007, 4:22 AM
Post #11 of 28
(4847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2004
Posts: 512
|
That looks like a spot for a screamer if I've ever seen one. Also, I would try really hard not to fall. In fact I might just grab a few pads and take my chances, at least if I fall highball, I'm going to land on my feet. I'm pretty sure having a rope would induce false confidence.
Besides that sand looks cushy.
|
|
|
|
|
kevinheiss
Jul 28, 2007, 1:07 PM
Post #12 of 28
(4644 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2004
Posts: 272
|
I wouldn't trust it but than again, depending on how hard the climb and how well spaced out the bolts are, I would possibly try the toute.
But I wouldn't trust that bolt.
Kevin
|
|
|
|
|
rc_vinay
Jul 28, 2007, 8:03 PM
Post #13 of 28
(4565 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2005
Posts: 154
|
the hanger looks okay. problem is the the rusty bolt...no i don't trust it i wont even hang my camera on that thing 
|
|
|
|
|
trebork2
Deleted
Jul 30, 2007, 3:16 AM
Post #14 of 28
(4454 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
I'd clip into it. Just add an X behind the route rating.
|
|
|
|
|
rasoy
Jul 30, 2007, 3:31 AM
Post #15 of 28
(4443 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2007
Posts: 242
|
Not one person here has "seen" the questionable op's bolt and they are making judgments on whether it's good or bad.
Is this place for real?
|
|
|
|
|
omalavet
Jul 30, 2007, 3:43 AM
Post #16 of 28
(4421 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2007
Posts: 91
|
there is a picture.. you need more???
|
|
|
|
|
bent_gate
Jul 30, 2007, 3:45 AM
Post #17 of 28
(4417 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2620
|
There is a picture attached to the original post, and the poster is asking for opinions. Whether one wants to heed anonymous opinions is another issue of course.
Omar,
I will refer you here, and suggest you ask your question here:
http://safeclimbing.com/...tion/bomberbolts.htm
This is exactly what they do. Have fun, and climb safe! It looks beautiful! (I'm jealous!)
|
|
|
|
|
rasoy
Jul 30, 2007, 3:49 AM
Post #18 of 28
(4409 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2007
Posts: 242
|
Thanks bent_gate
I'm not real familiar with this forum.
|
|
|
|
|
rasoy
Jul 30, 2007, 5:13 AM
Post #20 of 28
(4344 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2007
Posts: 242
|
climbingtrash?
Why would someone call themselves that? Trash?
And everyone at the link is flipping the bird and has some black tape over their eyes, like they're hiding.
You must be one of those cults in that hot desert that worships hot rocks.
|
|
|
|
|
climbingtrash
Jul 30, 2007, 10:35 AM
Post #21 of 28
(4291 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114
|
rasoy wrote: climbingtrash? Why would someone call themselves that? Trash? And everyone at the link is flipping the bird and has some black tape over their eyes, like they're hiding. You must be one of those cults in that hot desert that worships hot rocks.
A Cult? Nhaa...cults take themselves waaay too seriously!
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Jul 30, 2007, 1:41 PM
Post #22 of 28
(4196 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
rasoy wrote: Not one person here has "seen" the questionable op's bolt and they are making judgments on whether it's good or bad. Is this place for real?
No. Are you?
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
paulraphael
Jul 30, 2007, 9:01 PM
Post #23 of 28
(4077 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2004
Posts: 670
|
In reply to: I'd trust it, but I'd try not to fall on it.
um ... what does that mean?
|
|
|
|
|
climbordie7
Jul 30, 2007, 9:07 PM
Post #24 of 28
(4063 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 21, 2007
Posts: 295
|
who would be dumb enough to even test it. I mean come on that bolt looks like the only thing holding it there is rust. and 30 feet is a pretty high amount to consider a boulder problem for me any way. i am not comfortable trying 20 feet if its really difficult for me.
|
|
|
|
|
alpinismo_flujo
Jul 30, 2007, 11:52 PM
Post #25 of 28
(4011 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2006
Posts: 603
|
I wouldn't trust that rusted bolt either.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
