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wanderlustmd
Aug 20, 2007, 7:17 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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I'm headed to Seneca this weekend or next and am looking for a possible aid route to do. It doesn't have to be an "aid" route per se, just a continuious crack system. Obviously there are lots of single pitches around, but I was looking for something multipitch.
According to the guide, things tend to be stop-start in the crack dept. ie. they run for a while, turn to face for 50 feet, etc. This may or may not be the case, as I've never been to the area before, but the topos suggest that things are discontinuous for the most part. I'd be likely looking for cracks in the 11-12 range, since they will likely be less crowded and more condusive to aid overall. (the guide didn't have any aid routes at all)
Thanks for the help,
Matt
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deschamps1000
Aug 20, 2007, 7:39 PM
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Registered: Apr 29, 2004
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There's an A2 (or 12d) route in the cave on the south end of the north fin. You'll need a bird beak (or nut tool, seriously that is what my friend used) for one move towards the end.
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wanderlustmd
Aug 20, 2007, 8:37 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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Do you know what the route is called?
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betaben
Aug 23, 2007, 2:04 PM
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Registered: Sep 3, 2002
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The route in the cave is called Satisfation #1, there is also a satisfation #2. Satisfaction number #1 Starts on the bolted climb "fine young cannibals" which is in the guide book, Niether of the aid routes are in the current guide. Stop in at the Gendarme and ask to look at one of the early guide books, they will be listed there. I haven't had to use a bird beak on the route, but it would be a good Idea to have some hooks, and small wires. The second pitch takes you out the roof of the cave, so be prepared for that.
There are a lot of routes you can aid, but not alot of contius crack systems that won't be busy. The cave is your best bet.
Ben
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tuna
Aug 23, 2007, 2:31 PM
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Registered: Mar 28, 2004
Posts: 188
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I remember about 6 years ago watching two guys aiding a route at the cave. The two must have been practicing since they had spent the night in a portaledge. So the guy leading heads off and does about 8 hook moves with out placing any thing. Around 20 or so feet past the portaledge anchor he pops off. His belayer is laying down on his back (which I think is the best way to belay on a portaledge, so that you can see your partner at all times) and just get out of the way in time for the leader to smack into the ledge and bounce back off and fall again until stopping around 20 feet off the ground. Hanging upside down with enough gear to climb to god covering his head while his partner starts yelling at him about not putting any gear in before making so many hook moves. The belayer is pinned to the portaledge anchor since he was using a gri-gri and the leader did not have any ascenders an I think any prussic loops to get back up to the portaledge. My friend and I ask if they needed help and were ok. They both said they were fine and would basically figure it out. So with that we walked off to do a couple routes around the corner.
Anyway those routes did look really nice so have fun.
ciao
Santana
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cclarke
Aug 23, 2007, 2:59 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2003
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The first pitch of Superstition is not a bad route to aid. I did it with a regular free climbing rack but I understand that many of the old fixed pins were dynamically cleaned in a fall a few years ago. It's to the left of the Satisfaction routes. You probably won't be getting in anyone's way.
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