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gripjo
Sep 4, 2007, 2:09 PM
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I'm looking for a bolted multi-pitch line near Montreal, Qc. I can climb around 5.10d and I'm willing to go like 300-500 miles around Montreal.
So places like Adirondack park, New Hampshire, Maine, Vermont, etc are accessible for me. If possible, I'm looking for 5 to 10 pitches in line.
Could someone help me find my dreamed destination ???
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campo
Sep 5, 2007, 2:07 PM
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Better think about driving to Mexico man....
Adirondack Park is all trad.
Rumney (NH) is 99.9% sport, but, I think there are only a handful of two pitch routes on the Main Cliff area. However, that area is closed for falcon nesting, so that is off limits.
I dont know of any multipitch sport in Maine or Vermont, though it is possible that they exist.
Seriously, your best bet for multipitch sport is El Potrero Chico, Mexico.
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jakedatc
Sep 5, 2007, 8:26 PM
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campo wrote: Better think about driving to Mexico man.... Adirondack Park is all trad. Rumney (NH) is 99.9% sport, but, I think there are only a handful of two pitch routes on the Main Cliff area. However, that area is closed for falcon nesting, so that is off limits. I dont know of any multipitch sport in Maine or Vermont, though it is possible that they exist. Seriously, your best bet for multipitch sport is El Potrero Chico, Mexico.
Main cliff is not closed... Falcons moved higher up the mountain to a very much less traveled spot this year.
Rumney has some multipitch sport but it's definitely not the main attraction. I don't know how many multi's it has but not that many.. if that's all you're interested in then don't bother but the single pitch is world class
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Sep 5, 2007, 8:30 PM)
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sbaclimber
Sep 5, 2007, 9:45 PM
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campo wrote: Adirondack Park is all trad .... I dont know of any multipitch sport in Maine or Vermont, though it is possible that they exist.
Unfortunately, I am pretty sure neither Vermont or Maine has anything high enough.
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rocknice2
Sep 6, 2007, 12:07 AM
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No SPORT routes of that length near Montreal.
Dacks: Pokomoon-shine:
Mayflower 5.10 400ft. may be as close as it gets but I don't think it's fully bolted.
Lauretians: Nixon(1st wall):
Can't remember name of route but it's the only three pitch route there.
FULL SPORT 5.10 300ft.
Lauretians: Wier:
A few 2 pitch sport routes above 5.11
The laurentians are packed full of single pitch sport crags but no long multi.
My best suggestion is to buy a rack.
Within 2.5 hours of Montreal there are number of areas with +500ft cliffs.
Poko ....
Keene Valley..... up to 700ft.
Wallface.... 800ft.
Within 5 hours
North Conway....
Les Palissades
Parc des Grande Jardines
+1000ft.
Canon
Haute Gorge
Sorry about the lack of multi pitch sport
but
THE TRAD ROCKS.
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jp_sucks
Sep 6, 2007, 12:25 AM
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Closest place I can think of for you is to fly out to Calgary. Canmore (1hr away) has a bunch of multi-pitch sport lines. A few routes on EEOR and Chinaman's (Ha Ling) Peak right above town are between 6-12 pitches in length and 5.10 range.
Route ideas:
Sysiphus Summits 5.10d, 21 pitches (can link some)
Raptor 5.10c (or 5.9A0), 9 pitches
True Grit 5.10b, 5 pitches
Parallel Dreams 5.11a, 6? pitches
There's more, just can't rememer them right now.
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desertwanderer81
Sep 8, 2007, 4:11 AM
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There's a few places for multi-pitch in the east coast....but trust me, as someone who has moved out to the west.....it pales in comparison!! You look out your window and you see 1000 ft climbs ;)
Anyhow, North East sport is very limited as it is. As someone else mentioned, you're only good bet is Rumney.....Lake George has like 1 5.6 and one 5.8 that are bolted. There are a few others, but they're pretty rare.
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raymondjeffrey
Sep 9, 2007, 4:25 PM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2004
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Infinite Bliss in Washington is 'sporty' I hear. Lots of bolts on Chrymsin Chrsalis (sp).
Go to El Portrero Chico in Mexico. They gots bolts there.
Plus Mexico's cops don't gots SCMODS.
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gripjo
Sep 19, 2007, 5:05 PM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2006
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Thanx to all thoses who tried to help me !
This brings me to the conclusion that i'm better doing a trad course asap to feel the thrill of the multi-pitch climbing !
Also, for thoses who didn't know, there is a few multi-pitch routes at la Montagne d'Argent in les Laurentides in the Québec province. There's only 3 pitches (75m), but that's a good place to be initiated.
Good climbing season to all of you !
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