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ATBoundNC
Sep 11, 2007, 12:55 PM
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Ok, so some background: I have been bouldering about a year now either at the gym or on my woodie (which is an 8' X 8' adjustable w/ 2 X 4' individually adjustable sections) and am an active runner and cyclist. So, my questions is this. I went to the gym yesterday and after only doing the VO route once as a warm up, my forearms hurt so bad I had to leave. I understand that you can have a bad day but this seemed ridiculous. I rested a little bit and drank some water, then left, not wanting to push myself to injury. But, what happened?!?! Anyone have one of these days?
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joeforte
Sep 11, 2007, 2:19 PM
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You didn't warm up enough and got a flash pump.
In the first 30 mins to an hour, don't let yourself get pumped. Even if it means jumping off the V0 before you get to the top. If a move feels hard/pumpy/crimpy or otherwise stressful, back off and warm up before you give it a solid attempt.
As you found out, pumping out after one climb sucks a lot, and is not worth the pride associated with getting to the top on the first try.
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overlord
Sep 11, 2007, 3:43 PM
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hehe, another beginner that doesnt know how to properly warm up... read my post in using giant holds thread in the indoor gyms forum (i believe its there)... it pretty much covers the flash pump.
and it IS possible to continue climbing after getting a flash pump, you just wont be able to push quite as hard as you would if you didnt get it. it requires resting a bit more and a longer warmup period.
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EPiCJAMES
Sep 11, 2007, 5:54 PM
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ATBoundNC wrote: Ok, so some background: I have been bouldering about a year now either at the gym or on my woodie (which is an 8' X 8' adjustable w/ 2 X 4' individually adjustable sections) and am an active runner and cyclist. So, my questions is this. I went to the gym yesterday and after only doing the VO route once as a warm up, my forearms hurt so bad I had to leave. I understand that you can have a bad day but this seemed ridiculous. I rested a little bit and drank some water, then left, not wanting to push myself to injury. But, what happened?!?! Anyone have one of these days?
you definitely want to warm up more. take your time, stretch, all that crap. when your forearms get pumped, hang them from a couple holds, so they are straight up. all the lactic acid in your muscles will flush out of your arms. it may take a minute, or 5 minutes. but well worth it. also, massage your forearms after each climb.
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angry
Sep 11, 2007, 6:15 PM
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I think these guys are way off. Sorry, but if you've been climbing for a year regularly, a V0 won't flash pump you unless it's really really long (was it a 45 move traverse?).
All sorts of things could have happened. You could have been worked from something else, you could have been dehydrated, you could have had an electrolyte imbalance, your core could have been tired from something else that caused your arms to work too hard.
If simply climbing a V0 while fresh got you so pumped you had to leave, you might have a rather serious muscle compartment problem. This is probably not the issue.
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whoa
Sep 11, 2007, 6:21 PM
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hah, i got flash pumped or something last night too, and bouldering became an exercise in how to climb without fingers (Vn stemming problems and V(n-4) overhangs).
some days you need more warmup than others. i haven't figured it out yet, nor why some days that SHOULD be good based on recent training and rest, turn out to suck, and others that should suck turn out great. finger (forearm) muscles are some odd beasties.
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wonderwoman
Sep 11, 2007, 6:36 PM
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Well, add me to the one pump chump club! I got flash pumped just last night, too! I think I was tired and dehydrated, and I climbed like crap and kept falling off things. All night long while I was in bed, both of my arms were falling asleep.
I try to massage my arms from the elbows downward by sort of squeezing them. Today I'm drinking tons of OJ and laying off the caffeine. In general, I feel better so I bet I'll climb better tonight.
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zionvier
Sep 11, 2007, 7:50 PM
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I'm going to bet on the dehydrated theory. Although it hasn't happened to me with climbing, I've experienced being too dehydrated with other sports. Instant muscle cramps and stuff like that within the first 5 minutes while warming up (might have needed to warm up for the warm up). Try having both your calves cramp up at the same time while swimming laps in a pool... you pretty much become a rock and sink instantly since your first reaction is to grab your calves... fun times.
Rehydrate, stretch more before hand, and take some mental notes of what you did the day before and earlier that day that could have made it happen. If it happens again see if there's a connection between the two times. Hot outside? over extended yourself the previous day? not enough sleep? ate something different than your normal diet? etc.
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CinnamonJohnson
Sep 11, 2007, 7:52 PM
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You should start doing pushups. Building up your opposing muscles will keep your forearms from getting flash pumped so fast.
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whoa
Sep 11, 2007, 8:12 PM
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CinnamonJohnson wrote: You should start doing pushups. Building up your opposing muscles will keep your forearms from getting flash pumped so fast.
are you saying that pushups work muscles that oppose forearm muscles? and why would having stronger opposing muscles make any difference?
(if i'm missing humor here, damn, i suck)
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hopperhopper
Sep 11, 2007, 9:42 PM
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whoa wrote: CinnamonJohnson wrote: You should start doing pushups. Building up your opposing muscles will keep your forearms from getting flash pumped so fast. are you saying that pushups work muscles that oppose forearm muscles? and why would having stronger opposing muscles make any difference? (if i'm missing humor here, damn, i suck)
yeeahh....the opposing muscles to your forearms (flexors) are your extensors. which are actually kinda hard to work out, now that i think about it. pushups don't do it, that's for sure.
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binrat
Sep 12, 2007, 12:15 PM
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I had the same problem to the point were I was getting over pumped on a 5.6. Seen the doc about it and it came down to what she thought to be a type of compartment syndrome. Started using a different type of fore arm stretches, problem solved.
Binrat
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ATBoundNC
Sep 12, 2007, 12:53 PM
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I figured I would get an answer on RC.com (right or wrong). Taking from what everyone says, I will definitely try to warm up better and if it happens again will massage the area, stretch and once the tightness goes away will continue to climb lightly (so as not to completely blow the day). But I think the century bike ride I did 2 days before may have played a role in my trouble. Possibly still dehydrated!?!? For those who don't know, a century bike ride is 100 miles in a single ride. Thanks everyone for the help. I will be heading back to the gym today for another round of climbing but after drinking lots of water and stretching!
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tdsharkey
Sep 12, 2007, 2:39 PM
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If it persists let us know, or consult some posts in the accidents / injuries forum. Persistent tightness or pain in the forearm could be a muscle or ligament injury and require more careful treatment. I'm almost finished recovering from medial epicondylitis which first manifested as some tightness or soreness in the forearm.
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hopperhopper
Sep 12, 2007, 4:10 PM
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ATBoundNC wrote: I figured I would get an answer on RC.com (right or wrong).
at least you recognize the margin of error here
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