Forums: Climbing Information: General:
gear testing Force question
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for General

Premier Sponsor:

 


bigtoeski


Sep 22, 2007, 4:58 AM
Post #1 of 6 (415 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 9, 2003
Posts: 14

gear testing Force question
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have a question: I have read that to test gear manufacturers will attach an 80 kilo iron block to the end of a rope and let it fall to create a factor 2 fall (something like a 5 foot fall with 2.5 feet of rope out). Wouldn't a greater foce be generated if the fall were 60 feet as opposed to only 5 feet? In the climbing world you are going to be falling greater than 5 feet. The longer the fall the more time you have to accelerate and gain more velocity right? So the testing they do doesn't really represent a real world situation right? I guess my question is: does a 5 foot factor 2 fall generate the same force as a 60 foot factor 2 fall? Seems like the 60 foot factor 2 fall would generate more force on the anchor.


moose_droppings


Sep 22, 2007, 5:14 AM
Post #2 of 6 (410 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371

Re: [bigtoeski] gear testing Force question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bigtoeski wrote:
I have a question: I have read that to test gear manufacturers will attach an 80 kilo iron block to the end of a rope and let it fall to create a factor 2 fall (something like a 5 foot fall with 2.5 feet of rope out). Wouldn't a greater foce be generated if the fall were 60 feet as opposed to only 5 feet? In the climbing world you are going to be falling greater than 5 feet. The longer the fall the more time you have to accelerate and gain more velocity right? So the testing they do doesn't really represent a real world situation right? I guess my question is: does a 5 foot factor 2 fall generate the same force as a 60 foot factor 2 fall? Seems like the 60 foot factor 2 fall would generate more force on the anchor.

With a longer fall you have more rope out which gives more time to slow you, lowering the force.


rocknice2


Sep 22, 2007, 5:38 AM
Post #3 of 6 (398 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2006
Posts: 1221

Re: [bigtoeski] gear testing Force question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The same max impact force is generated for both a 5 foot or 60 foot FF2. The longer fall will hold that peak force for a longer time.
If you plot it on a graph both will peak at about the same point but the area under the longer fall curve will be greater.

I believe rope tests are done with 2.5 meters not feet.


jt512


Sep 22, 2007, 5:42 AM
Post #4 of 6 (390 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [bigtoeski] gear testing Force question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bigtoeski wrote:
I guess my question is: does a 5 foot factor 2 fall generate the same force as a 60 foot factor 2 fall?

As unintuitive as it may seem, the answer is "yes" -- to a good first-approximation, for a given fall factor, maximum impact force is independent of fall length.

The subject has been thoroughly explained by rgold here.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 22, 2007, 5:45 AM)


majid_sabet


Sep 22, 2007, 6:31 AM
Post #5 of 6 (376 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390

Re: [jt512] gear testing Force question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

let's see

[URL=http://imageshack.us]

[URL=http://imageshack.us]

[URL=http://imageshack.us]

[URL=http://imageshack.us]


bigtoeski


Sep 22, 2007, 6:35 AM
Post #6 of 6 (373 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 9, 2003
Posts: 14

Re: [jt512] gear testing Force question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Awsome, Thanks for everyone who replied!! And you are correct rocknice it is meters not feet, my mistake.


Forums : Climbing Information : General

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook