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runawayagain
Oct 15, 2007, 4:00 AM
Post #1 of 14
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Registered: May 10, 2007
Posts: 11
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Now I want buy a new set of cams, I want to choice one from power cam and camlot.As I know,power cam is more light,one finger for triger but camlot are more heavy loaded(it's can load up to 12 kn),more range size and more beautiful.
Could you guys/girls give me some real experience about that,who has real experence of both of them?
Any reply about that will be so appriciated.
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graniteplanet
Oct 15, 2007, 4:56 AM
Post #2 of 14
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Registered: Jul 18, 2004
Posts: 54
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I have both a set of power cams (ultralights) and a set of C4s; the truth is you really cannot go wrong with either and they compliment each other really well. That being said I prefer the Black Diamonds in the larger sizes, #1 and larger, as their sizes just seem more intuitive ie: perfect hands is a gold camalot, if I can get a hand jam sweet yellow saves the day. However, as a personal preferance I love the smaller sizes in the power cams, they are are better in horizontals than their single stem counterparts and like the larger C4s corispond to my fingers perfectly. A yellow metolius means tight fingers for example. My perfect single set of standard cams is blue through red metolius, which are available in a convienent package at a slightly reduced price, and then #0.75 - #3 C4. Most people are going to tell you to go try them out for yourselves and you should, but if they both feel good then you cannot make a bad call with either of these two products in my personal opinion
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flint
Oct 15, 2007, 4:58 AM
Post #3 of 14
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Registered: Jun 21, 2007
Posts: 543
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runawayagain wrote: Now I want buy a new set of cams, I want to choice one from power cam and camlot.As I know,power cam is more light,one finger for triger but camlot are more heavy loaded(it's can load up to 12 kn),more range size and more beautiful. Could you guys/girls give me some real experience about that,who has real experence of both of them? Any reply about that will be so appriciated.
Do you have old cams, if so, what about those cams do you like/dislike?
Also, I am currently in Shanghai, and have been to a few other spots in China and have found nothing but BD cams, can you find Metolius gear here?
j-
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runawayagain
Oct 15, 2007, 5:33 AM
Post #4 of 14
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Registered: May 10, 2007
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Now in China,BD is easy to buy.I have a set of wild country forged friends before.If you want to buy metolius,I think you have to ask you external friends to help.
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flint
Oct 15, 2007, 6:00 AM
Post #5 of 14
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Registered: Jun 21, 2007
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If you liked your friends and became good at finding placement for them, chances are that you will prefer BD cams to Metolius. The flexable stem will open up many new options for you. Also, the availablity of BD would probably make it easier to just grab a range of C4's. Shipping from the states would not be to bad with the frieght box, but having somewhere to buy the gear is probably prefered.
My rack is Metolius and Friends, and my partner only runs BD cams. I like how our rack compliments each other. But truthfully, brand loyalty aside, The above poster was correct in saying that either cam will be more than amazing.
What part of china are you in?
j-
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hosh
Oct 15, 2007, 6:47 AM
Post #6 of 14
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
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If I had it to do all over again, I would have gotten the Metolius cams (the new light ones) instead of Camalots. I just like the way Metolius cams work. Nothing wrong with C4's, I've got lots of them... I just like Metolius cams.
All said and done, it's a lot like asking which is better, Chocolate or vanilla...
hosh.
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runawayagain
Oct 15, 2007, 7:44 AM
Post #7 of 14
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Registered: May 10, 2007
Posts: 11
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flint wrote: If you liked your friends and became good at finding placement for them, chances are that you will prefer BD cams to Metolius. The flexable stem will open up many new options for you. Also, the availablity of BD would probably make it easier to just grab a range of C4's. Shipping from the states would not be to bad with the frieght box, but having somewhere to buy the gear is probably prefered. My rack is Metolius and Friends, and my partner only runs BD cams. I like how our rack compliments each other. But truthfully, brand loyalty aside, The above poster was correct in saying that either cam will be more than amazing. What part of china are you in? j-
I am in Chengdu.West of China,and there are some big wall peak in four girls mountain area.
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camplicated
Oct 15, 2007, 8:05 AM
Post #8 of 14
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Registered: May 5, 2007
Posts: 30
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Any reason you're not looking at WC Tech Friends? I have a set and love them. A good bit lighter than camalots and all above the 00 have a 14 kN pullout.
If you can, climb with the ones you're interested in and then decide. Of the brands you're looking at, you can't really go wrong. I agree with the previous post of BD being better for bigger sizes and Metolius for smaller. You may want a mix.
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stymingersfink
Oct 15, 2007, 3:00 PM
Post #9 of 14
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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hosh wrote: If I had it to do all over again, I would have gotten the Metolius cams (the new light ones) instead of Camalots. I just like the way Metolius cams work. Nothing wrong with C4's, I've got lots of them... I just like Metolius cams. All said and done, it's a lot like asking which is better, Chocolate or vanilla... hosh.
If you're going to go to the trouble of laying your hands on the Metolius cams, skip the power cams and go with the TCU's. They'll be a little more versatile (ever so slightly) than the power cams (due to the narrower head width), especially in the thin fingers - thin hands range, and your easy-to-find C4's will fill out the thin hands to fists range quite nicely.
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ja1484
Oct 15, 2007, 3:07 PM
Post #10 of 14
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Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935
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I like both. My preferred setup would be Ultralight Powercams 1 - 8 with C4s .75 to #4, and you should be good. Bring a set of nuts too.
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wanderlustmd
Oct 16, 2007, 1:02 PM
Post #11 of 14
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
Posts: 8150
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stymingersfink wrote: hosh wrote: If I had it to do all over again, I would have gotten the Metolius cams (the new light ones) instead of Camalots. I just like the way Metolius cams work. Nothing wrong with C4's, I've got lots of them... I just like Metolius cams. All said and done, it's a lot like asking which is better, Chocolate or vanilla... hosh. Chocolate. Duh. If you're going to go to the trouble of laying your hands on the Metolius cams, skip the power cams and go with the TCU's. They'll be a little more versatile (ever so slightly) than the power cams (due to the narrower head width), especially in the thin fingers - thin hands range, and your easy-to-find C4's will fill out the thin hands to fists range quite nicely.
I agree with this. I have the larger powercams and find that I have to fiddle a bit more than camalots to get a placement I'm happy with. TCUs work great, but I'm in the process of updating the rack a bit and camalots are going to be a staple.
my 2c
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guccipiggy
Oct 16, 2007, 1:22 PM
Post #12 of 14
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 92
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I agree with mixing up the cams as well. I use the Ultralight TCU, Powercams and C4's.
TCU and Powercams are excellent in the small sizes (00 - 4) and camalots from 0.75 to 3 is what I have.
The U-stem on the Metolius seems more prone to walking in the bigger sizes (3 and 4) and I prefer to place the C4's instead.
They complement each other really well.
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crackers
Oct 16, 2007, 1:47 PM
Post #13 of 14
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Registered: Apr 20, 2005
Posts: 416
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I'd get BD stuff from the #1 and bigger, and metolius for all the smaller stuff, from 00 to #4 or so...
that's just my idiosyncratic opinion though, so as the other posters wrote in their responses,
borrow some and try them out!
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drfelatio
Oct 16, 2007, 2:04 PM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: Sep 16, 2004
Posts: 475
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I own a double set of TCUs (1-4), a set of Powercams (4-8), and a set of C4s (.75-5) to round out my cam rack. I love them all, especially the TCUs. Fantastic product. You really can't go wrong with either brand, but I'd say BD, at least in the hands and up sizes, ever so slightly outperforms Metolius. The trigger action is just so smooth throughout the entire range and when you get a good placement you just know it's bomber.
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