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stormannorman
Oct 14, 2002, 9:57 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2001
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Getting really sick of cracks that widen coming out in basalt rock. It looks like I have a great placement then I go to rest on the cam it and it pops, what a shitty feeling!
Any advice besides the obvious, avoid flaring cracks.
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wigglestick
Oct 14, 2002, 10:03 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Get a set of Wild Country Offsets. They fit in flares like no other cams can. CCH also makes hybrids which are the same thing.
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petsfed
Oct 14, 2002, 10:06 PM
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Look for the least flaring cracks, use something other than a cam, and of course, look for a better placement. Also, some cams do better with certain flare than others. I have fallen because of a cam popping out while I tested in a flaring crack. Lesson I learned: There was a much better placement 2 feet lower!
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pelliott
Oct 14, 2002, 10:18 PM
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I have a couple of the small size Wild Country Offsets, and I actually used one this past weekend. It worked well.
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mreardon
Oct 14, 2002, 10:26 PM
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Offsets and the Aliens that come in two sizes are great as well.
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tigerbythetail
Oct 15, 2002, 3:30 AM
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Offset Aliens and Offset Friends all work wonders...give em' a try.
[ This Message was edited by: tigerbythetail on 2002-10-14 20:30 ]
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petsfed
Oct 15, 2002, 3:50 AM
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To clarify, you don't mean cracks that are narrower at the back (furthest away from you) than at the opening right? With cracks that exibit a flair vertically (eg they are wider at the top or bottom of the crack) use an offset cam or a stopper if the conditions are right. With the depth flair (like some sort of jacked-up trough in the rock) read my post above and grin & bear it.
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apollodorus
Oct 15, 2002, 4:17 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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The BD and WC sizing is (sorta) designed to accomodate flares. That's why the next size up starts at the middle of the range of previous size. Well, that's the theory. You futz with your rack (the sling is in your teeth) to find what works. Nice. Ever heard of GRIPPED???
But, you've already heard it best: offsets and hybrids, cams with two different sizes of cams on the same axle, are the way to go.
Also for pin scars.
The offset/hybrid cam is one of the best things going. One of the nicest inventions since the plain cam. Works in straight cracks, too.
[ This Message was edited by: apollodorus on 2002-10-14 21:23 ]
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stevematthys
Oct 15, 2002, 1:02 PM
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Hybrid Aliens are the shit
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punk
Oct 15, 2002, 1:34 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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I have them both Hybrid and offset and I cant tell u how much I love them they have saved my fat ass many time …today I just asking myself where were they all those years…I can go to the extend of saying that offset nuts and cam is a turning point in gear evolution pretty much like the invention of the cam
GET THEM, GET THEM, GET THEM
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pelliott
Oct 15, 2002, 3:26 PM
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Registered: Mar 10, 2002
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Offset cams are made for cracks that flare from back to front also not just top to bottom or side to side. Remember you place them with the anticipated direction of a fall in mind. The cam should be pointing downward to take the downward force of the fall. The wider lobes are in the wide part of the crack and the smaller lobes are in the small part of the crack.
[ This Message was edited by: pelliott on 2002-10-15 08:33 ]
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