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trisgo
Dec 4, 2007, 8:19 AM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2005
Posts: 82
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Hey all,
I spent years toproping at highrocks every weekend and then moved crosscountry. Since I moved, ive spent the last 2 years learning trad/aid. Now me and some of the people ive been learning trad from have been talking about taking a trip back east to head up to the gunks. I would really like to take a side trip down to high rocks to complete a dream of leading neandrathal (bad at spelling). Unfortunaly ive had a hard time finding any beta online. Do any of you have any info on what type of rack would work best or know where i can find topos online?
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bizarrodrinker
Dec 4, 2007, 12:28 PM
Post #2 of 6
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Registered: Dec 20, 2005
Posts: 2316
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Leading (read falling) on gear at highrocks is a death wish. You might as well just solo that choss pile.
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brewer19
Dec 4, 2007, 8:25 PM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2007
Posts: 114
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I've got a guide book floating around somewhere, (Andy you don't happen to have that do you?) but it doesn't give much info. I'll take a look when I get home from Uni next weekend. I'm sure you can do it with a set of nuts and a few small to mid size cams (i.e. #2 camalot being the largest you'd need). to be honest the rock sucks so I don't climb there often, but i'll take a look and let you know.
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kmc
Dec 5, 2007, 9:04 PM
Post #4 of 6
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Registered: May 24, 2006
Posts: 252
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I agree with everyone else. That rock is terrible, why would you want to lead (or even climb) on that chossy, loose rock. Especially if your planning on going to the Gunks. Why not spend that extra day in the Gunks and get an extra 10 high quality routes, on good rock, that are well protected, instead of climbing one climb that is OK, for that crag.
If that is your dream though, then I suppose a standard rack of stoppers and cams up to 2", just dont fall on any of it.
~Kevin
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lunchbag
Dec 25, 2007, 4:02 AM
Post #6 of 6
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Registered: Dec 19, 2007
Posts: 11
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Had the pleasure of leading this route several weeks ago. This route is not bolted unless you want to rely on two old ring bolts that are worthless. Although for a Stover route, this is probably one of the better gear protected route I've encountered there. Moves off the ground are very polished but there is adequate gear. Load up on protection in the crack before the crux and go! 5.8 if you're tall and 5.9 if you're short . It is definitely worth doing!! If you can succeed at Stover you should be able to climb anywhere.
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