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moeman
Jan 14, 2008, 10:18 PM
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The Plan: Myself and a friend hatch a plan to finally acheive the dream of the many-months long climbing trip. The plan is to take a semester off from college (during the spring of 2009) and go live in El Potrero Chico from early January until it starts to get too hot (April-ish), then come back to the States, climb for another month or two stateside, then get ready to settle in to summer jobs to earn back some of the $$$ we spent.
The Problem: Climbing partner backs out.
The Question: Without partner, I'm now contemplating the possibility of doing the trip solo. As such, this would entail flying down to Monteray, taking a cab to EPC, and settling in for a several-month stretch and doing a lot of climbing. As such, important questions:
What is the EPC climbing community like? Are there other people staying there for extended periods of time (Camp 4 style)? Will I be able to easily find reliable climbing partners? Will most climbers there speak English (my Spanish is mediocre)? Or will I have trouble finding people to climb with?
Another question regarding the climbing: I lead in the 5.10 range (Sport and trad) and hope to break into the 5.11 range by this time next year (i.e. before the trip begins). Will the be a sufficient volume of 5.10/5.11- climbing to keep a person occupied for three months?
-Jon Moen
(This post was edited by moeman on Jan 14, 2008, 10:21 PM)
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moeman
Jan 14, 2008, 10:31 PM
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And of course! One last question that I forget to add to the collection:
Is there anyone reading this that would be interested in joining me for several months of being a bolt-clipping climbing bum in Mexico during winter/spring of 2009?
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gblauer
Moderator
Jan 14, 2008, 10:50 PM
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Send a PM to Magic Ed: Potreroed (RC.com ID)
He lives in Hidalgo and can fill you in on the climbing scene.
In my opinion, you will have a plethora of climbers to climb with (Depending on your level) and the living is cheap. You have lots of options for camping or renting a casita.
Ok, I am going to quit my job, tell my kids to fund their college and join you...
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shimanilami
Jan 14, 2008, 11:22 PM
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moeman wrote: And of course! One last question that I forget to add to the collection: Is there anyone reading this that would be interested in joining me for several months of being a bolt-clipping climbing bum in Mexico during winter/spring of 2009?
Only in my dreams.
I hate you.
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dreday3000
Jan 15, 2008, 3:41 AM
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Man o man you're in for a treat, nothing like an extended roadie. I spent 3 months down in Potrero myself 3 years ago and I got a few insights.
First thing to address is your lack of a partner. Provided you're not a weirdo, you should be sweet for partners up till March. After that the scene sort of dies out and you could be stuck wihtout a partner. That said, Magic Ed has been known to take wayward climbers under his wing, if you're lucky he might even con you into doing some new routes with him.
BOut that heat. You know, I stayed in Potrero up until July and I found it tolerable. Yeah it gets a little toasty but all you got to do is take a sieta during the mid day and you're sweet. There's also some pools you can enjoy and I heard they got lights in the Potrero so you can do some night climbing too!
Dane Bass is also a good person to hook up with if he is still around. (Anyone know if he is?)
Also recommed checking out El Salto if you get to the 12 range, THAT is some sweet climbing!
Best of luck!
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dreday3000
Jan 15, 2008, 3:58 AM
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Here's a link to a video i made when I was down in potrero
http://www.rockclimbing.com/videos/Sport/El_Potrero_Chico_149.html
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james_climber
Jan 16, 2008, 4:07 AM
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dreday3000 wrote: Here's a link to a video i made when I was down in potrero http://www.rockclimbing.com/videos/Sport/El_Potrero_Chico_149.html
Yup Dane Bass is still there, Edgardo Baca and Magic Ed as well.
I just came back from EPC and im depresed ,haha , some friends are still there,
But if your trip starts in December would be better.
There's a lot of places where to stay, check them and try to make a deal with the owner cos you gonna stay long time.
Partners., many local climbers speak english or at least the necesary.
Try to get as strong as you can, its always good in any climbing area of the world , stronger 0 more posibilities, more routes to climb.
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climbhigh2005
Mar 24, 2008, 1:20 AM
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I sent you a PM...
Basically I am either going to live there end of Dec-mid March and try to do a 480 internship or I am going to graduate in Dec. and live down there Jan-March and be a complete dirtbag... lol but either way I am going to be myself for at least all of February and most of January and some of March.... so let me know if you are still looking for a partner...
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dlintz
Mar 24, 2008, 3:43 AM
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I just got back and it was sweet except for this crazy dust storm last Tuesday and the beer is 4.5%. I saw Dane either in the canyon or at La Posada campground every day. Track him down, he's a wealth of info (especially for new routes not in the guidebook).
Knowing spanish definitely helps but isn't mandatory.
You'll have no trouble finding partners if you're willing to ask.
Life in the Potrero is cheap.
Enjoy it. I wish I could've stayed longer.
d.
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