|
austin.timm
Jan 18, 2008, 11:37 PM
Post #126 of 164
(15201 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2007
Posts: 96
|
i would have to agree that Fred Beckey is definitely a frontrunner, and then also to point out Conrad Anker and Alex Lowe.
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Jan 18, 2008, 11:53 PM
Post #127 of 164
(15191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
austin.timm wrote: i would have to agree that Fred Beckey is definitely a frontrunner, and then also to point out Conrad Anker and Alex Lowe.
Holy thread revival, Batman! But what the hell ...
Tommy Caldwell (b/c I think big wall free climbing is the shit).
|
|
|
|
|
onceahardman
Jan 19, 2008, 12:22 AM
Post #128 of 164
(15178 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493
|
second dougal haston and fritz weissner.
|
|
|
|
|
dryfly
Jan 29, 2008, 7:57 PM
Post #129 of 164
(15069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2008
Posts: 2
|
Not as well known, but "flyin" Brian Mc Cray leads 5.14+ and also A4+, not a lot of folks can do both.
|
|
|
|
|
dynosore
Jan 29, 2008, 8:15 PM
Post #130 of 164
(15057 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768
|
Lowe - nuff said
Messner - all time role model
Humar - most underrecognized climber, at least in the states
I love how the OP asks for "best all around climber including mountaineering" and gets names like Graham, Hill, etc. 
(This post was edited by dynosore on Jan 29, 2008, 8:16 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
miavzero
Jan 30, 2008, 5:10 AM
Post #131 of 164
(15020 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2005
Posts: 624
|
jmlangford wrote: My vote would be for the great Alex Lowe.
The best climber is the one who is still alive having fun.
(This post was edited by miavzero on Jan 30, 2008, 5:11 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
shivaBD
Jan 30, 2008, 6:43 AM
Post #132 of 164
(14994 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 3, 2008
Posts: 6
|
alive Dumbly Dave macleod
dead Alex Lowe
also didn't Jean Christophe lafille put up biographie
(spelled wrong I know)
|
|
|
|
|
tisar
Jan 30, 2008, 8:18 AM
Post #133 of 164
(14976 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2577
|
Can't believe nobody mentioned Stefan Glowacz. Started as one of the first 'real' sportos (first professional comp climber, at least in Europe) and more and more developed a grip on expedition climbing.
Besides his pathetic role in 'Scream of Stone' (still a must-see, if just for the fun of it) he really has a record in every possible discipline. Climbing in the 5.14 range and being one of the most reckless alpinists and expedition climbers at the same time, he did some awesome FAs all around the world (Antarktis included).
Bet there's just a few out there who could come close to climb something like his route on the Mullaron/Patagonia (27 pitch 5.13a, A2, M4)
- Daniel
|
|
|
|
|
munky
Jan 30, 2008, 11:54 AM
Post #134 of 164
(14963 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2006
Posts: 358
|
Surely Potter should be mentioned. Although a bit short on the alpine/mountaineering game it is only a matter of time before his "practice" enchainments and solos in Patagonia are put to use in the Karakoram, Himalayas, Antarctica, Greenland, etc. Another honorable mention is Henry Barber. Barber was hands down the best free climber and soloist of his day as well as a very competent high level ice and mixed climber.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Jan 30, 2008, 12:06 PM
Post #135 of 164
(14962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=279488
There's another one for the eights somewhere, I believe one of the Huber's was the only person to climb XIII, V8, F8A, F8a, E8, and an 8000m peak. Can't remember quite for sure, though. worth a mention, I figured.
-MagnuS
|
|
|
|
|
ja1484
Feb 6, 2008, 3:11 PM
Post #136 of 164
(14789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935
|
mauta wrote: REINHOLD MESSNER He was a great rock climber, until he lost some toes in the Nanga Parbat epic where his brother died. And he became, without any doubt, the greatest himalayist of all time Just some well known facts: 1)First climber to complete the 14 8000m peaks 2)First solo of an 8000 peak (Nanga Parbat) 3)First ascent of Everest without oxigen (with Habeler) 4)First solo ascent of Everest 5)And he is still ALIVE !!!!! (unlike Kukuckza, who died on the south face of Lhotse)
I agree, no one has equalled Messner yet, and only Alex Lowe ever really came close. Also want to further note:
Messner's ascent of Everest without oxygen was done *alpine style*, not siege style. Even more impressive.
dynosore wrote: Lowe - nuff said Messner - all time role model Humar - most underrecognized climber, at least in the states I love how the OP asks for "best all around climber including mountaineering" and gets names like Graham, Hill, etc.
Yeah, amusing isn't it?
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Feb 6, 2008, 3:21 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
tolman_paul
Feb 11, 2008, 8:43 PM
Post #137 of 164
(14703 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 385
|
I'd vote for Peter Croft. I have the greatest deal of respect for him after meeting him, because he's a humble guy that simply loves climbing. I have a feeling many of his climbing exploits are simply unknown, as he climbs for himself, not to get written up the mags.
If there is one of the great climbers that is still around that I could go climb with, it would be Peter.
|
|
|
|
|
corson
Feb 11, 2008, 9:17 PM
Post #138 of 164
(14691 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 16, 2005
Posts: 193
|
Alpine- Clearly the mountain goat
Trad- the chimpanzee
Sport- The gecko
Aid- The spider
Ice- ??????????? I'm open to suggestions
|
|
|
|
|
eddie_munster
Feb 14, 2008, 1:26 AM
Post #139 of 164
(14645 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2004
Posts: 78
|
Lots of good climbers have been mentioned, but let's be clear: Hill, Lowe, Messner, Potter, Kauk, Moffit, etc. do not compare to the new breed:
Dave McCleod currently takes the cake as best all around free climber:
Boulders V13
Free soloed 5.13d
put up the hardest trad line in the world at E11
Sport climbs 5.14c
Does hard ice and some of the hardest alpine around
http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/dumbydave/
The Huber Brothers, specifically Alex, are pretty close behind. Not sure about Alex's bouldering record, but he did put up some of the hardest sport climbs in the world, several of which are still unrepeated (Om and Open Air -- possible 5.15's that he called .14d 15 years ago). He has also free soloed 5.14a (with the crux in the kill zone). He's also don hard alpine, hard aid, and hard ice.
The only thing these guys haven't done are the Himalayan slogs, but that will be easy for them. That's what you do when you're old and can't pull down hard anymore.
In America, it's gotta be Caldwell for sure. Potter is up there too and Alex Honnald is gonna blow the roof off, mark my words. He's reportedly psyching up to free solo Freerider having already soloed astroman and rostrum in a day, redpointed 5.14c, and done many of the hardest trad lines in the country. That'll be some sickness if he pulls that off.
|
|
|
|
|
yokese
Feb 14, 2008, 1:40 AM
Post #140 of 164
(14637 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 18, 2006
Posts: 672
|
eddie_munster wrote: The only thing these guys haven't done are the Himalayan slogs
True, although they have climbed big walls on pretty high peaks in the karakorum, the Ogre and the Latok II (both >7000m).
Those guys are (H)uber-talented.
(This post was edited by yokese on Feb 14, 2008, 9:37 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
wallwombat
Feb 14, 2008, 5:55 PM
Post #141 of 164
(14613 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 727
|
Sure are some funny answers for best ALL-ROUND climber. Dave Graham? What?
Anyway, my vote is Greg Child. He has climbed hard aid first ascents worldwide, K2, Everest and many other Himalayan peaks, and he's still doing 5.13 first ascents in his fifties.
I could list many of his other climbing achievements but I cant be arsed.
And he's bloody good at writing about it too.
|
|
|
|
|
ozoneclimber
Feb 14, 2008, 6:14 PM
Post #142 of 164
(14602 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2005
Posts: 250
|
Reinhold Messner, nuff' said
Todd Skinner, the quintesential Yosemite local, not to mention one of the best men this sport has seen
Wulfgang Gullich, the quintisential elite...
Lynn Hill, she had more of an uphill battle that most
Next generation; Steve House, Chris Sharma, Fred Nicole, Bernd Zangerl, Dave Graham, Andy Raether, Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, Chris Lindner, Luke Parady, Joe Kinder...
I could go on for pages...
They are all far better, in there own field or all-around, than I will ever be in any field.
-Bobby
|
|
|
|
|
eddie_munster
Feb 14, 2008, 7:38 PM
Post #143 of 164
(14593 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2004
Posts: 78
|
Besides Skinner and Gullich, how are any of the other climbers you listed all-arounders?
|
|
|
|
|
ozoneclimber
Feb 14, 2008, 9:31 PM
Post #144 of 164
(14579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2005
Posts: 250
|
I wasn't trying to imply that any of the "next generation" list were great all-around climbers. Not for now at least but with time I would hope that some of them would branch out to other areas of climbing.
Messner was the first to ever climb all 8,000 meter peaks in the world. Not to mention the works he did in the Dolomites. They man was, is, incredible. He did all of this, and unlike countless others, he survived to tell the tale. Unfortunately many have perished attempting what he has accomplished.
Lynn Hill accomplished so much, just because of the fact that she started climbing in a society where women didn't do that, unfortunately. And women do have to overcome things that I, as a man, do not. We are physiologically different. Yet she still climbs just as hard as some of the worlds elite male climbers. She has done aid, albeit not much mountaineering, to my knowledge.
I can only hope that many of the young strong climbers out there, regardless of there fortee, will move on to many different experiences.
|
|
|
|
|
oldandintheway
Feb 19, 2008, 3:51 AM
Post #145 of 164
(14499 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2002
Posts: 2450
|
Greatest All Around Climber Ever?
The one having the most fun.
|
|
|
|
|
miavzero
Feb 19, 2008, 4:00 AM
Post #146 of 164
(14498 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2005
Posts: 624
|
oldandintheway wrote: Greatest All Around Climber Ever? The one having the most fun.
|
|
|
|
|
c22
Feb 26, 2008, 12:36 AM
Post #147 of 164
(14429 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 2004
Posts: 195
|
[quote "couloir"]I'm with crack addict. I can't believe nobody mentioned Wolfgang Gullich. He was far and away the most talented climber ever.[/quote]
Ok, I know i'm like four pages behind, but the whole thing about wolfgang was that he WASN'T the most talented. He was innovative and determined and trained like a demon.
And Dave graham? I'm sorry, yes he's strong, but not nearly strong enough to be called the best of anything. In terms of pure mutants what about Adam Ondra, Paxti Usiobagi, Bernd Zangrel, Dai Koyamada, Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods and the myriad other prodigies that no one really hears about?
I don't feel that these guys credentials really need to be listed. Go find them.
Just to get you started though:
Ondra is 15 and has climbed 2 5.15 (9a+) in one week, one of which was done in 5 tries over a couple years.
Bernd Zangrel has put up 2 v15/16 both of which are in the 4-6 move range (Aram Cara and Momento)
Paul Robinson has onsighted v13/14
While none of these are all arounders by any definition, they need to be considered before you call anyone the most talented climber EVER.
|
|
|
|
|
d.yaniro
Mar 1, 2008, 12:40 AM
Post #148 of 164
(14370 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 28, 2008
Posts: 5
|
man- Wolfgang Gullich
woman(tie IMO)- Lynn Hill or Robyn Erbesfield
|
|
|
|
|
reginald805
Mar 1, 2008, 2:29 PM
Post #149 of 164
(14343 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2008
Posts: 12
|
Peter Croft is a bad ass.
|
|
|
|
|
joswald
Mar 12, 2008, 9:29 PM
Post #150 of 164
(14191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2008
Posts: 64
|
is he an all round climber?
i may be wrong but i thought he just does sport and bouldering?
|
|
|
|
|
|
