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ronniefrown
Oct 18, 2002, 12:53 PM
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I've only climbed indoors at 3 gyms and the routes that i've been working are 5.10-5.11+ level, but i never thought i was all that good (indeed i'm not) and then i hear about ppl climbing outdoors and how it was really difficult to send a 5.9 etc. so i'm wondering, is there a difference between indoor and outdoor ratings, or is my gym just rating stuff as way too easy? if i do go outdoors and want to climb something of the same level, should i pick an easier route or pick another 5.11?
-much love and curiosity
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drivinnclimbin
Oct 18, 2002, 1:41 PM
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Gym ratings are usually easier than outside. Plus, the route is right there in front of you. That makes it way easy. I would recomend starting on something easier to get the feel of things. Then just work into your comfort level. Hope that helps.
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jbrd528
Oct 18, 2002, 2:18 PM
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I have never heard of a beginner who has climbed a 5.11 their first time outdoors. I am sure that there are several gym rats who have been climbing for several years, might be able to send a 5.11 there first time outdoors, but this is not likely. If you have only been 3 times in a gym then you probalby want to start out with a 5.8 or 5.9 outdoors. If you feel good on those then try a little harder.
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jman
Oct 18, 2002, 2:21 PM
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Most gyms that I have been to, I think the climbs are rated higher than the real difficulty level of the climbs. There are gyms that do sandbag the climb ratings. It's hard to tell what your gym does without first hand experience there. I think most people who have only climbed 3 times, usually make it up to 5.7 or 5.8 level unless they are some type of climbing phenom (I know some people may disaggree with me, but that's the impression that I get).
The biggest difference with climbing outside versus inside is that you need to learn how to read the rock and figure out where the next hold is. I don't think the first time you go outside you should just jump onto a 5.11 climb. I think you should climb something more moderate, get comfortable being on real rock, and work your way up in difficulty level.
Climb on.
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maiorlive
Oct 18, 2002, 2:37 PM
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If your gym route setters are good, there won't be much difference in difficulty between indoor and outdoor ratings. Generally the indoor routes pack more technique into their 10s and 11s than outdoor routes do. But outdoor you won't necessarily know where the next move is until you make it.
I found the difficulty level to be similar, but the types of difficulty to be quite different. Gym routes ask for more power and technique while outdoor asks for more endurance and the additional skills of route finding. If you're on top rope or a sport route, you can't go far wrong on route finding, so I say go for it. If you don't get it, then you have a project to work on
W
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spoon
Oct 21, 2002, 9:37 PM
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My gym just isn't as tall as my crag. There isn't much to be done about it, but it means that endurance becomes a major factor when i climb outside. Big shiny strips of red duct tape also make a difference.
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petsfed
Oct 21, 2002, 10:03 PM
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I've found the opposite to be true. I used to climb in the gym an awful lot (esp. Rockin' and Jammin') before I got into trad, and have hardly looked back since. Even the 5.8's I've top roped in the real world were quite a bit harder than what I experienced in the gym, but then my technique was lacking and route finding became more of an issue. Now that I'm back in a gym again, coupled with weekly trips to Vedauwoo, I throw all comparisons out. I crack climb in the real, and face climb on the plastic, and the face just feels easier. Even the face(s) at Vedauwoo felt much harder than at the gym. Typical 'Woo sandbag? Perhaps. Maybe I'll start a thread on it.
EDIT: To delete all of those stupid repeats. And if this thing spits out multiple posts again, I'm going back to IE. My computer hemoraging messages, and I'm pretty short on paper towels.
[ This Message was edited by: petsfed on 2002-10-22 17:29 ]
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ronniefrown
Oct 22, 2002, 3:38 AM
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not nice pets but that's ok. i'll pretend the multiple posts were an accident.
just to clear stuff up in case anyone's still reading here, i meant i've climbed in 3 different gyms, not that i've only climbed 3 diff routes!
much more love, affection and less curiosity
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duskerhu
Oct 22, 2002, 4:18 AM
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Hey ronnie, the biggest difference in outdoors vs. indoors is the fact that there are not taped holds marking the route... You can look at it from the bottom, and maybe see a few chalk marks on prominent holds, but a lot of the time, you won't be able to see holds untill you get right there.
As far as how your gym/s rate routes campared to outdoor ratings, this is HIGHLY subjective! Even within one gym, or one outdoor area, you will find some routes rated 5.9 that are easier than others of a lower rating and vice versa.
Start outdoors on a few routes way below what you would climb in a gym and work your way up...
Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!
duskerhu
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rjtrials
Oct 22, 2002, 5:23 AM
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the best advice that i can offer is too find a route at your local crag that is within your skill level .10-.11
pick one that you think has the best and most fun looking line. damn the rating. you'll prolly fall a few times, but that is what makes climbing enjoyable, eh?
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pelliott
Oct 24, 2002, 3:35 PM
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Route finding is the biggest issue. I would go down a grade or two when you first go outside. It doesn't hurt to warm up anyway, and it will give you good practice. Then again some people just take to it like a fish in water. You might be one of those people who can just get on the rock and move.
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reno
Oct 24, 2002, 3:48 PM
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The other thing to keep in mind are the other factors that come into play...
Indoors, you have 1) a constant temperature, 2) plenty of lighting that never changes, 3) no vegitation on the route, 4) no insects, 5) no dive bombing pissed-off perigrine falcons, 6) etc. etc. etc.
I look at the gym as a good way to increase strength and technique at the same time, as well as being convenient (can hit the gym, climb 10 routes, shower, change, and get to work in an hour or so...,) but it has been my experience that outdoors is a little harder, for the reasons I mention as well as those reasons mentioned by others.
Best,
JRB
(Edited for a typo.)
[ This Message was edited by: reno on 2002-10-24 08:49 ]
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