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Katmindoo
Feb 22, 2008, 7:36 AM
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I just got into grad school in NYC and wondering what the climbing is like over on the East Coast. I've climbed at Yosemite, Red Rocks and Joshua Tree; what's it like on the other coast? Am I going to go through withdrawal or ?
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troutboy
Feb 22, 2008, 2:28 PM
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Naw,
You'll be fine, except in the winter. Plenty of great climbing at the Gunks (1hr) and Adirondacks (2-3 hrs).
The only problem is that climbing here is not the year around activity is in in the west. We have this thing called winter, where a lot of people dress in warm clothes, carry weird looking axes, and claim to climb crappy to non-existent water in it's solid state, but they are wild bunch and very scary ;-).
Seriously, there is some great climbing within easy travel distance, but the winters can sometimes be problematic.
TS
(This post was edited by troutboy on Feb 22, 2008, 2:28 PM)
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onyerbike
Feb 22, 2008, 2:28 PM
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Hey Katmindoo,
Huh? Withdrawal? Yeah, its different. I did the same move and I wondered too. No desert, no vast big walls. But 5.9 at the Gunks will make you quake in your West Coast 5.11 boots.
Gunks (1.5hrs)
Adirondacks (5-6hrs)
New Hampshire (Rumney, Cathedral, Cannon (6+hrs)
are pretty much within easy striking distance from NYC
you can boulder in the Park, the gyms in the city are OK but not up to W coast standards, some newer gyms slightly outside are worth the trek if you're mobile.
Its hard to have a car in the city, but you can usually catch a ride
hit www.gunks.com
besides, if you are in grad school, you have no time for climbing.
good luck OYB.
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happiegrrrl
Feb 22, 2008, 2:43 PM
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Kat - Welcome to NYC. It's as others have said. The Gunks is your nearest crag, and the climbing is pretty damned good. Different type of climbing, completely, than Jtree, but you'll find the grades are comparable. And, a unique quality to the Gunks is that there are incredible routes at any grade.
One thing to know it that the areas listed are trad, except for Rumney. I've never been there, but it has a reputation of having both gear and sport routes from easy to very hard. People come from the world over to climb Rumney, Gunks and Daks, and there is enough to last you a lifetime.
The (Gunks)climbing season, for general purposes, runs through mid-late March through November, though of course there are people who will get out there in winter, and others who can't take the spring inconsistencies in weather.
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tigerlilly
Feb 22, 2008, 3:48 PM
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troutboy wrote: The only problem is that climbing here is not the year around activity is in in the west. We have this thing called winter, where a lot of people dress in warm clothes, carry weird looking axes, and claim to climb crappy to non-existent water in it's solid state, but they are wild bunch and very scary ;-).
You forgot that we wear mean, nasty, spiky things on our feet, too! 
Kathy
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onyerbike
Feb 22, 2008, 4:12 PM
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I think TB drives faster than me..
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happiegrrrl
Feb 22, 2008, 5:00 PM
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hahah - no kidding! An hour from NYC to the Gunks, and 2 to the Daks???? Maybe he has a helicopter.
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kmc
Feb 22, 2008, 5:28 PM
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Funny, because for most people, it is just about 3 hours from the Gunks to the Dacks, but certainly not 3 hours total from NYC.
To the OP, as you can see from what everyone else has said, there is great climbing close by, just that there wont be anything in your back yard. Unless you want to count those boulders in Central Park, but I am not including that because you asked about climbing.
The Gunks has great climbing, enough to keep you occupied certainly for the time you are in school. The Adirondacks, which is more suitable for a weekend or long weekend trip than a day trip, (due to driving time) has great climbing with a more remote setting, and different style of climbing than the Gunks and its cragging atmosphere.
It is true that most people dont climb rock in the winter, but I climb pretty much year round, unless there is climable ice close by. I know of many others that do this as well, its not too bad if you can pick the warm or sunny days.
Dont listen to these jokers about ice climbers being crazy. If you havent been back home, I suggest you at least give it a shot when your out here. The North East is home to a lot of fabulous ice climbing, which wont be to far away for you.
~Kevin
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troutboy
Feb 22, 2008, 6:11 PM
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Hey, I can make it from the NY/NJ border to the cliff in 45 minutes driving the prima facie "speed limit".
Seriously though, RE Times. OK, so I was in a time warp.
I think I also forgot it takes y'all at least 1 hour to get out of the city first 
TS
(This post was edited by troutboy on Feb 22, 2008, 6:14 PM)
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onyerbike
Feb 22, 2008, 6:52 PM
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Hey TB, how fast you go through the EZpass lane? I got a nasty little note from EZpass suggesting I slow down..punks
What with searching for coffee on 17, more coffee in NP, dragging around getting to the Lincoln, 1.5 hrs is about right for me.
Besides, Kevin knows what a terrible driver I am.
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gunkiemike
Feb 22, 2008, 6:58 PM
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I don't know where they start counting the mileage on I-87 in NYC but it's about 265 miles to Chapel Pond, generally the closest ADK climbing area to downstaters. Ain't gonna do that in 2-3 hours and get away with it.
On a holiday weekend you can often add 1-2 hours coming home. The NY Thruway (that's I-87 south of Albany) just can't handle the 21st Century population. But maybe coming from CA you're used to that.
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sbaclimber
Feb 22, 2008, 7:09 PM
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gunkiemike wrote: On a holiday weekend you can often add 1-2 hours coming home. The NY Thruway (that's I-87 south of Albany) just can't handle the 21st Century population. 
Edit, actually, there are bugger-all cops on it as well, so if you have a radar detector, the speed limit doesn't *necessarily* have to be much lower
(unless they've raised them in the past 8 years, watch out for the drains!!!)
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Feb 22, 2008, 7:18 PM)
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gunkiemike
Feb 22, 2008, 7:52 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: gunkiemike wrote: On a holiday weekend you can often add 1-2 hours coming home. The NY Thruway (that's I-87 south of Albany) just can't handle the 21st Century population. This is where the Taconic State Parkway can actually be your friend. The speed limit is lower, but there is waaayyyy less traffic, and no tolls. Not worth it if you are in a hurry AND it is a low traffic time, but pretty sweet if you are trying to avoid the masses Edit, actually, there are bugger-all cops on it as well, so if you have a radar detector, the speed limit doesn't *necessarily* have to be much lower (unless they've raised them in the past 8 years, watch out for the drains!!!)
First of all...SHHHH!!! Let's keep the TSP *our* little secret, ok?
About the cops, the Troopers are fond of nailing you with laser radar as you crest all those blind hills on the TSP. I don't think most folks can slow down in time, esp. if the traffic is light. But I'd rather do 60 MPH on the Parkway than 30 MPH stop-and-go on the Thruway. Not that I haven't seen the TSP bumper-to-bumper on the big summer holidays. When my wife was in NJ, she used to sit an hour to get through the Harriman toll plaza.
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kmc
Feb 22, 2008, 8:41 PM
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Ian? is that you?
If it is, I wouldnt expect your driving to add time to your trip, only reduce the amount of total driving time. You know, when you dont stop and wait your turn at busy intersections, you are kinda playing a dangerous game of roulette, but if you dont get hit, it can really pay off. :)
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troutboy
Feb 22, 2008, 8:50 PM
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onyerbike wrote: Hey TB, how fast you go through the EZpass lane? I got a nasty little note from EZpass suggesting I slow down..punks What with searching for coffee on 17, more coffee in NP, dragging around getting to the Lincoln, 1.5 hrs is about right for me. Besides, Kevin knows what a terrible driver I am.
Hey, I'm speed limit all the way. 5-10 MPH thru those E-Z Pass only things and 70-72 in the 65 zone. Only speeding ticket I ever got was a mistake (guy passing me got nailed, but the cop pulled me over).
Hey, all, I already yielded and noted I was in a time warp with my bad estimates. 
The NY Thruway is the reason I switched my day off from Friday to Monday and started driving home Monday night instead of Sunday nite.
(This post was edited by troutboy on Feb 22, 2008, 8:53 PM)
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happiegrrrl
Feb 23, 2008, 12:33 AM
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I used to use the back way through Gardiner on 300(?) when I had my van. It always seemed the big time sink was going through New Paltz and then the stretch of the highway up to that first toll, and then would let up. Even though it's slow going through those back towns, it's kind of nice seeing the old architecture and stuff.
I despise the bland superhighway system and would prefer to take longer but not have the monotony and icky driver attitude so prevavlent on the big roads.
I never did get good at figuring out other ways home though. Some people would do the Palisades, but I never could remember how to find it(and never looked on a map, even though I had them in my van....).
The first time I ever tried a different way home, I totally got off route and ended up going nearly ALL the way down through 45mph small towns.... It included a beautiful view on a mountainside. But....it took forrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeevvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr...
Lat year, I had a sweet deal... I'd take the Metro North rail to Poughkeepsie, and a college girl gave me a ride to/from Camp Slime. Every single Friday evening, each week for the entire season (Because I had my dog, and no car, this was my best option. Our Cali transplant should know, there is a bus that runs from Port Authority to New Paltz, in 90 minutes, and that is a good option if you are carless).
Soon! Our Gunks season will be upon us soooooooon!!!!!
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Katmindoo
Feb 26, 2008, 10:36 PM
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thanks for all the info, folks! now I know who to try to catch rides with and who not to. don't know about the ice climbing, but the Gunks are sounding amazing. can't wait to actually make it out there. (side note, it's 65 degrees out here and I just went hiking behind my house in Chaco's). O, and since I'll be in NYC without a car, can anyone give me the scoop on the gyms, local crags that can be reached by mass transit?
Kat
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happiegrrrl
Feb 26, 2008, 11:04 PM
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The gym thing is well documented in many posts here - just search variations of "gym" + New York City, or scan this forum for past threads. I don't go to the gyms, so can't really give the info.
Mass transit for real climbing.....subway to Central Park to boulder on the few boulders is about it.
The gunks deal, sans car is:
- Bus from Port Authority(42nd Street and Eight Avenue) to new Paltz.
Cost is like $38 round trip, I think. It lets you off in downtown New Platz, which is 6 miles from the cliffs.
You can:
- have your climbing partner pick you up at the bus station if they have a vehicle
- Take a taxifrom the bus stop(PITA, like $15 one way)
- See if anyone else at the bus stop has a ride to the cliffs, and room for you to hop in
- Hang out at Rock & Snow(gear store) and ask people for rides to the cliff
- Hitchhike
New Paltz is a college/climbing town, and people think nothing of a stranger asking for a lift at the climbing shop. I am a girl, and I have hitch-hiked - which does feel a little weird....but once I get the ride, the feeling passes. hahahah
For hitchhiking to the cliffs- I walk to the edge of town(a few minutes from the bus station). Just before the big old bridge, there is a restaurant called The Gilded Otter. That's where I stand, because it gives drivers room to see you, think about stopping, and a turn just afterward, so they can pull over safely to pick you up.
With your pack and rope showing, it's pretty obvious where you're going and most anyone who stops is going to the cliffs.
I've never had a bit of trouble, but I am SURE some people would be wigged out that I suggest hitchhiking, especially as I believe you are also a woman.
On the return - I always go to the Overlook, near the cliffs and ask people who are getting ready to leave if I can catch a ride. I have found this the easiest way. Others go to the parking lot and ask for rides. You CAN schedule a taxi to come get you - I know there are people who have done that... I never would.
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