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sighko1
Mar 6, 2008, 2:02 AM
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Hello All,
I have some friends that want to climb up half dome before the season starts and the cables go up. They are not interested in doing Snake Dike.
My understanding is that in the winter the rangers take down the poles that hold the cables up as well as the wood that makes up the makeshift steps, but the cables remain just hanging on the rock face.
My question is has anyone ever climbed up the cable route with the cables down. I was thinking that a I could run a rope along side the cables and anchor it to the cable anchor points. This line could be used as a safety line.
Or there is the approach of leading it like a normal climb and anchoring into the cable anchors.
Any thoughts?
(This post was edited by sighko1 on Mar 6, 2008, 2:15 AM)
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rangerrob
Mar 6, 2008, 12:58 PM
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Stepping outside of the cables actually makes it easier as the rock isn't nearly as polished as inside. Other than that, treat it like any other runout slab climb.
RR
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csproul
Mar 6, 2008, 1:04 PM
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As long as it's dry, going up while the cables are down is still pretty easy. If you have any experience with climbing/scrambling with some exposure it should be no problem to do this without a rope. Dragging a rope and any gear up that trail would not be something I'd want to do.
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bent_gate
Mar 6, 2008, 1:29 PM
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I haven't done it myself while the cables were down (flat against the rock), but I know plenty of others who have done it when they were down.
Unless you would like a belay, there is no need to set up an additional rope along side the cables.
I do recommend some gloves for the cables. If you go slow and deliberately, you won't scuff your hands, but almost everyone starts moving faster to save energy.
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limeydave
Mar 6, 2008, 6:22 PM
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sighko1 wrote: Hello All, I have some friends that want to climb up half dome before the season starts and the cables go up. They are not interested in doing Snake Dike. My understanding is that in the winter the rangers take down the poles that hold the cables up as well as the wood that makes up the makeshift steps, but the cables remain just hanging on the rock face. My question is has anyone ever climbed up the cable route with the cables down. I was thinking that a I could run a rope along side the cables and anchor it to the cable anchor points. This line could be used as a safety line. Or there is the approach of leading it like a normal climb and anchoring into the cable anchors. Any thoughts?
The problem is that the cables are partially buried in the ice up there until the melt.
I was up there 1st week of April about 5 years ago, and without crampons, some runners to clip to the sections of cable that aren't buried and a rope, I thought it was too sketchy.
You can get to the lower summit no problem, but if there's still snow and ice on the final slab you'll probably want some gear 'cause if you slip off you'll get a better look at snake dike than you bargained for, all the way down.
Oh, and don't forget your helmet - I heard Majid is now handing out fines to any climbers not wearing helmets and jock cups while in the valley.
Have fun!
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csproul
Mar 6, 2008, 8:47 PM
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limeydave wrote: The problem is that the cables are partially buried in the ice up there until the melt. I was up there 1st week of April about 5 years ago, and without crampons, some runners to clip to the sections of cable that aren't buried and a rope, I thought it was too sketchy. You can get to the lower summit no problem, but if there's still snow and ice on the final slab you'll probably want some gear 'cause if you slip off you'll get a better look at snake dike than you bargained for, all the way down. Oh, and don't forget your helmet - I heard Majid is now handing out fines to any climbers not wearing helmets and jock cups while in the valley. Have fun!  . I think it was May when I went up (cables were still down) and it was warm, sunny and bone dry. So I guess it depends on the year. As for Majid and jock cup inspections...I want no part of that.
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limeydave
Mar 6, 2008, 9:01 PM
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csproul wrote: limeydave wrote: The problem is that the cables are partially buried in the ice up there until the melt. I was up there 1st week of April about 5 years ago, and without crampons, some runners to clip to the sections of cable that aren't buried and a rope, I thought it was too sketchy. You can get to the lower summit no problem, but if there's still snow and ice on the final slab you'll probably want some gear 'cause if you slip off you'll get a better look at snake dike than you bargained for, all the way down. Oh, and don't forget your helmet - I heard Majid is now handing out fines to any climbers not wearing helmets and jock cups while in the valley. Have fun! 'cept I'm pretty sure the cables are on the opposite side of the dome from Snake Dike . I think it was May when I went up (cables were still down) and it was warm, sunny and bone dry. So I guess it depends on the year. As for Majid and jock cup inspections...I want no part of that.
You're absolutely correct of course, sorry about the dramatic license...
Hey - so here's the Sentinel Webcam
http://www.yosemite.org/vryos/sentinelcam.htm
- shows you the Snake Dike side I'll see if there's a webcam on the other side where the cables are so you can see if they are likely buried.
I'll be up there weekend of April 11th (sans jock cup), but I think I'll stick to some bouldering this year.
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salamanizer
Mar 6, 2008, 9:29 PM
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limeydave wrote: I'll be up there weekend of April 11th (sans jock cup), but I think I'll stick to some bouldering this year.
Going to Yosemite just to boulder is like being invited to a party at the Playboy mansion and then leaving as soon as you've met Hugh Heffner.
Or going to Vegas for the buffet...
WTF?
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limeydave
Mar 6, 2008, 9:37 PM
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salamanizer wrote: limeydave wrote: I'll be up there weekend of April 11th (sans jock cup), but I think I'll stick to some bouldering this year. Going to Yosemite just to boulder is like being invited to a party at the Playboy mansion and then leaving as soon as you've met Hugh Heffner. Or going to Vegas for the buffet... WTF?
I know - I haven't lined up a competent partner and I'm only there for the weekend so I'm setting my goals low... There will be beer though, although IIRC I doubt very much if Yosemite in April will be anything at all like the Playboy mansion...
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majid_sabet
Mar 6, 2008, 9:52 PM
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Climbing the cable side of Half Down when wet or icy is like climbing the face of Everest with ice axe and no crampons. Two people fell last year and died on Half Dome. One in April and the other one in June.
Just be careful.
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limeydave
Mar 6, 2008, 9:59 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: Climbing the cable side of Half Down when wet or icy is like climbing the face of Everest with ice axe and no crampons. Two people fell last year and died on Half Dome. One in April and the other one in June. Just be careful.
I finally agree with Majid!
I bailed from the lower summit in April 03 due to ice and lack of equipment.
Sad about those folks, but when you're standing there looking at it, it's a no-brainer...
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sighko1
Mar 6, 2008, 10:02 PM
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Thanks for all the advice. I was thinking of going up the first weekend in May, before the put the cables up so hopefully ice won't be an issue.
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sighko1
Mar 6, 2008, 10:28 PM
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I thought that at the base of half dome before your allowed to even start up you have to answers Majid's noob top rope and anchor stress questions.
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limeydave
Apr 7, 2008, 6:05 PM
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The webcam is down -
Anyone know if the cables are still buried?
Trying to decide what to pack...
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majid_sabet
Apr 7, 2008, 6:08 PM
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limeydave wrote: The webcam is down - Anyone know if the cables are still buried? Trying to decide what to pack...
Dave
when are you going to valley?
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dingus
Apr 7, 2008, 6:10 PM
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See this thread
http://www.summitpost.org/...iewtopic.php?t=36636
and maybe PM TheDeadpoint - he said he climbed the Snake Dike like two weeks ago. He'd know.
In reply to: The half dome climb was the weekend of the 21st, and it felt alot more like spring than like summer. We ended up descending the chains, which was a bit tricky. The hardest part of the trip, believe it or not, was off of halfdome on the approach. We ran into another party of two coming down from cloud's rest. One of the guys had hit his head in what they called a "300 yard fall" down an ice/snow slope on the south side of cloud's rest. His eye was swollen shut and his face was black and blue.
Cheers
DMT
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limeydave
Apr 7, 2008, 6:10 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: limeydave wrote: The webcam is down - Anyone know if the cables are still buried? Trying to decide what to pack... Dave when are you going to valley?
This Friday night / Sat / Sun
You gonna beat me up or buy me beer?
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limeydave
Apr 7, 2008, 6:29 PM
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dingus wrote: See this thread http://www.summitpost.org/...iewtopic.php?t=36636 and maybe PM TheDeadpoint - he said he climbed the Snake Dike like two weeks ago. He'd know. In reply to: The half dome climb was the weekend of the 21st, and it felt alot more like spring than like summer. We ended up descending the chains, which was a bit tricky. The hardest part of the trip, believe it or not, was off of halfdome on the approach. We ran into another party of two coming down from cloud's rest. One of the guys had hit his head in what they called a "300 yard fall" down an ice/snow slope on the south side of cloud's rest. His eye was swollen shut and his face was black and blue. Cheers DMT
Thanks - Looks like the snowline is still around 5500ft - which means the cables will be still buried for sure.
Will pack for a non-backcountry trip I think.
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