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milesdesbrie
Oct 31, 2002, 7:16 PM
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A couple of questions for those who've done the Prow:
1. How reachy is the bolt ladder on pitch 5? I'm 5'10", will top-stepping get me through or should I carry a cheater stick?
2. How many of the belays are hanging belays without a stance?
Thanks in advance.
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spike
Oct 31, 2002, 8:08 PM
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Here is a link to my trip report.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/ascent/index.php?AscentID=9073
Ben my partner did P5 and I remember him making some comments about how far the bolts were apart but he didn't need a cheater stick.
Note: He did take a fall just below the belay at the top of P5 !!!
Richard
Richard
[ This Message was edited by: spike on 2002-10-31 12:11 ]
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gunked
Nov 1, 2002, 8:03 AM
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I'm 5'6" and I did use a cheater stick on P5. I did top-step the hell out of the bolts. The cheater stick came in handy, though!
The hanging belays are, as I remember, P5 and P6.
Bring the leeper cams and small brass offsets.
GOOD LUCK! It's an awesome route! P2 is a bit of an eye-opener
Jason
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drunkenmonkey
Nov 1, 2002, 8:32 AM
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The bolts didn't seem that far apart, i'm 6'2' and i didn't get into the top step on these two bolt ladders but the extra inches may make all the difference.
The totally hanging stances are as you've been told 5 and 6. i would take a cheater stick as pitch 8 was a bit thin and we cheatered our way past the worst of it. have fun man i know we had a blast when we did it earlier this year, just don't run out of water and get as high a belay on the last pitch as possible to make the hauling easier.
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apollodorus
Nov 1, 2002, 9:18 AM
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Royal Robbins was about 5.10 (YHS), but Glen Denny was quite tall. Since Robbins hated bolts, it's probable that Denny drilled that ladder. Plus, they were probably competing with the Kor Roof (another tall climber) on the South Face for highest bolt-velocity, or feet per bolt.
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twrock
Nov 6, 2002, 2:13 PM
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Hanging belay at the top of pitch two as well.
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justsendingits
Nov 10, 2002, 11:57 AM
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Hey Ron,can u link your trip report?Also there is the same thread for beta on SF. it would be cool if u could link there also.
R
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twrock
Nov 10, 2002, 2:11 PM
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Unfortunately I don't have a TR for the Prow, mostly because I didn't summit. But I sure do remember the second pitch! Longest fall I've taken.
I'll look for the SF thread and try to post a link to the TR.
-Ron
(edit) Found the SF thread and added the link.
[ This Message was edited by: twrock on 2002-11-10 06:37 ]
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gunked
Nov 12, 2002, 2:48 AM
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You can link pitch 2 & 3 with a 60m rope. You can also link 7 and 8 with some back-cleaning on pitch 8. I forget what else can be combined.
Jason
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cantwinifyoudontplay2003
Feb 25, 2003, 10:31 AM
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You must be a truck if you think you need bata to climb The Prow... Fuck it and carry a golf ball getter. Any golf shop, extending pole you can cheat 25 feet. What the hell it's aid. What are you scared the rock police might see your cheat stick? Who are you climbing for yourself or others. Hell yes carry the stick at least if you are in front of me maybe you will be moving a little faster!!!!!! It will give you extra time to smoke green at the belay.
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iamthewallress
Feb 25, 2003, 9:17 PM
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My partner led that pitch. She's 5'1". She had to use the cheater stick from the top step! (It was a tiny cheater stick.)
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flamer
Feb 25, 2003, 11:45 PM
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Ok I went back and looked at my notes in my guidebook(I made them the day after I climbed the prow). The Belay at the top of pitch six is not totally hanging! There is a stance there. The TOTALLY hanging belays are as follows....Top of pitch 2(providing you don't link it with pitch 3), top of pitch 4,top of pitch 5. Every other belay has at least a stance. The only place me or my partners used a cheat stick was on pitch 6. and it was only about 12" long. I used it to clip a bolt while topstepping on the worsed fixed head I've ever seen, I can't believe it held. Erik Sloan was right behind me(He was leading directly behind me so he and his partner could pass) The cheat stick was actually his and he told me I was crazy to have used this head- he was right! This is a great route enjoy!
josh
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