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ronniefrown
Nov 1, 2002, 1:55 PM
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Hey everyone, I have a bouldering comp tomorrow and it only just occured to me that I might want to ask you guys what sort of prep is best on short notice. It's my first comp and I entered into it 2 weeks ago, so since then I've been practicing all the moves that I know scare me (for confidence) and as many other moves that I know are difficult for me (which is considerably less than the ones that scare me). Now I'm just resting for 3 days. What do y'all think? Was there a better way to prep? Will I be ready to do my best?
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ronin7s
Nov 1, 2002, 5:13 PM
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i suggest you do a lot of stretching...fingers, wrists, shoulders,forearms, and anyother muscle you use when you climb. I wouldn't suggest doing any climbing or any other conditioning because that might make you sore the following day and inhibate your performance.. just my 2 sence.....
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ponyryan
Nov 1, 2002, 7:15 PM
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Carboload like crazy. It will help. Lots of protein to make sure you've recovered properly before hand, stretch, relax and climb, remember to breathe
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dynomaster
Nov 1, 2002, 7:39 PM
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Keep a cool head while climbing, and do your best! Best of luck!
Dyno On
Andy
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lox
Nov 1, 2002, 7:55 PM
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Registered: Oct 2, 2002
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Take mushrooms and hope that I wasn't the guy that set the routes...
I stomp.
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kriso9tails
Nov 1, 2002, 8:01 PM
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I hear bananas are good for flash pump or something.
One day before the comp, all of you're preparation is mental. The best preparation is getting yourself to state where you'll be fairly relaxed. A few things to consider (if you have no idea what you're in for). If it's friendly format, start on something very easy that you can onsight without any trouble. It will get you a little familiarized with the point system, warm you up a touch (but not a substitute for a warm up/ stretch session), and boost your confidence because you've flashed at least one problem.
Next piece of advice, breathe, and don't get too hyper (some people do, some don't). You don't want to burn out from bouncing off of the walls.
Record all sends regardless of the points if it's set so that you fill out your score card yourself.
There's lots of time so try to avoid jumping from one problem to the next, and get a few out of the way with before you start working stuff that's going to take you at least eight attempts.
Hand in your score card no matter what... even if you think you're last, you may have actually placed (especially if you're in beginner or rec. but even if you're in open and know that you're getting trashed).
Oh yeah, I've never been to a bouldering comp that was onsight format. Don't be afraid to blow the onsight or flash (but don't throw it away for nothing).
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xcel360
Nov 1, 2002, 8:25 PM
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Hey, I entered my first bouldering comp yesterday(my first comp period), and I actually placed first. My advice is don't do too much excercising today. Make sure your muscles are nice and rested. Eat healthy today and tomorrow, but tomorrow eats lots of protein like chicken and put down a good fibery breakfast with foods like bananas. I stretched the morning of the comp and did a few morning easy calistetics(sp) to get my blood flowing for the day, and I would sit down in front of the TV and watch climbing videos while stretching some more. I got there half an hour early and stretched even more and warmed up lightly by traversing around the gym. Just remember to focus intensively on the problem at hand, remember breathing, and visualize the climb. Hope my routine helps a little, and good luck!!!
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kriso9tails
Nov 2, 2002, 1:21 AM
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Congrats on placing first. I placed first in the last comp I entered in in the rec division, but in open I'm screwed. There's one comming up in about three weeks... my goal is to not be last .
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ronniefrown
Nov 3, 2002, 1:37 AM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2002
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thanks, guys, for the tips. comp was great fun and i only blew two routes (i mean seriously stupid screwups). despite those, i still placed first in intermediate (how kriso9tails knows that, i have no idea).
best part is, it got me so motivated to try harder that i started enjoying climbing twice as much as i had before and i know i'm going to more comps, even if i have to drive out of state.
YEAY!!!!! (<~~~general excitement)
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kahuna3602
Nov 4, 2002, 2:10 AM
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Congrats Danni! I knew you could do it. Now with a little more training and a little outdoor climbing you can go kick some tail in the advanced div. I'd love to see you give Lisa and Tori a run for the money at Nationals. Later.
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wv5ten
Nov 9, 2002, 3:41 AM
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congrats
now I have to start getting ready for a comp on the 16th @ WVU (hey, I don't plan on placing at all, but i get a tshirt out of it, plus all the fun of climbing with a bunch of friends + people that can give me tips and make me better)
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ecocliffchick
Nov 21, 2002, 3:16 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2002
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I've got slightly more time before my bouldering comp. and I'm looking for training suggestions too. The comp is in two weeks and is the ABS format, with tons of problems, so I could focus on my strengths when selecting problems. In terms of intensive training over the next two weeks should I try to train my weaknesses or focus on building up my strong suits?
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lox
Nov 21, 2002, 7:17 PM
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Registered: Oct 2, 2002
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Build up your strength (power!) and work on route selection.
Then take mushrooms and pray I didn't set the routes...
lol
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