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gretna
Nov 3, 2002, 2:20 AM
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I have been climbing a couple of years now, but have mostly bouldered and seconding leads. Now I want to get into sport leading. The only question I have is what you do when you finish the climb??? Will there be shuts? Thanks
John
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coldclimb
Nov 3, 2002, 2:55 AM
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It depends.
Some routes have shuts, but when they do, make sure they're safe still. They get really worn on popular routes.
I personally take a few of those screwgate chain link things from the hardware store, because they are cheaper than a biner and work just fine. A lot of people will leave their rattiest biner, or one that they have found on another route somewhere. You usually have to leave something behind. Just make sure you never lower off of a sling! It can very easily melt from the friction, which would most likely kill you.
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petsfed
Nov 3, 2002, 3:47 AM
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Leave your rattiest biner if you get stuck. Quik links suck to get off the bolt once weighted because the threads get warped and no longer ...thread... correctly (I couldn't think of a better word). Quik links at the top might be better, but I have no experience with establishing bolt anchors at the top of climbs so, whatever. When there are chains, or rings or whatever, you need to tie through the anchors (see the petzl webpage http://www.petzl.com or any one of their catalogs for instructions. Should be under "single pitch climbing") if you're lowering off. If you're toproping, you'll need to create a separate system to send the rope through so you don't wear out the shuts or rings or whatever by being an insensitive tool. So if you want to set up a TR, then clip a runner to both bolts with locking biners, equalize it (your method of choice other than the "american triangle"), then clip and oppose two lockers and send the rope through those. Only rap or lower off of the rings, NEVER TOPROPE DIRECTLY OFF OF RINGS OR BOLTS. Its just not cool.
[ This Message was edited by: petsfed on 2002-11-02 19:51 ]
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orangekyak
Nov 3, 2002, 4:11 AM
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A good guide book will tell you what's at the top of a climb. I suggest going with someone with some sport experience the first time. Although that's hypocrisy cuz my first sport climbing was without someone more experienced. Probably should have been, now that I know a little more.
So either way, the general "rule" is that you should protect the climb as soon as you reach the anchors. Carry a couple extra draws to clip yourself in with. Or hitch a sling (or two) to your harness (full strength) to clip in with. Next put a draw on each bolt, shut, link, whatever, with the gates opposed. Clip the rope into the draws, check with your belayer that you are back/still on belay, unclip your harness-anchor connection and lower off.
If you do this method you need to make sure the second/last one up rappels down. Lowering off and TRing on the built-in hardware puts strain on the the fixed gear that is unneccesary.
Again, get together with someone who sport climbs. If you haven't done so by thanksgiving, I'll be down in Pennsylvania and will gladly go sport climbing with ya. hahaha
jeremy
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kcrag
Nov 3, 2002, 4:51 AM
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gretna,
I would highly suggest learning to lead from an experienced lead climber, guide, or school. Your inquiry about 'shuts' is a little limited, and could easily be expanded into multiple types of anchors that you might experience on sport climbs.
If you've been climbing on a regular basis for two years, you probably won't have any problems learning to lead sport. Just be safe and educate yourself on the many possiblities that exist in bolted climbs.
Best of luck to you... leading is a whole new sport yet to be discovered. Enjoy, and be safe.
-kelly.
[ This Message was edited by: kcrag on 2002-11-02 20:53 ]
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boltakrak
Nov 3, 2002, 11:25 PM
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you are stupid, what do you mean what do i do, man i can climb 5.7 lead so you suck
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purplemonk
Nov 6, 2002, 3:00 AM
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you can find a lot out about finishing off a lead, and practicing it, at climbing gyms off their bolts. it's good to practice and get your technique down right in that sort of safe setting before heading out onto cliffs that you don't have experience on or know the equipment on. also, you'll probably be able to find some knowledgeable climbers there that can help point out information that will be harder to pick up when online- learn first-hand from people that can show you what they're talking about- oh, and right on petsfed... toproping off bolts, or someone else's lead anchors isn't cool at all- those can be expensive, and get destroyed by topropers. keep it to the rap
[ This Message was edited by: purplemonk on 2002-11-05 19:03 ]
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lox
Nov 6, 2002, 3:06 AM
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If it doesn't top out... it sucks.
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ajkclay
Nov 12, 2002, 2:53 AM
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Boltakrak
What? Did you read the thread or are you just bumping up your posts?
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petsfed
Nov 12, 2002, 3:24 AM
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While I agree with Headcrak on this one, that if you're not topping out on something (as opposed to just lowering off of arbitrary placed anchors) its not nearly as rewarding, it kind of goes against the premise of sport climbing, which is to do as little work as possible before and after the climb. You don't find too many sport walk-offs, but then again, you don't lower off of trad climbs that much either (because cleaning that way sucks!). Boulder or free solo if you're into purity. Do trad if you lack the balls to free solo (inside every trad climber is a free-soloist trying to get out). And sport climb if you're in the mood for hyper low danger routes.
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