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idflatwater
Jul 8, 2008, 3:14 PM
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What is the best way to set up a top rope on uneven bolts?
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getout87
Jul 8, 2008, 3:15 PM
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idflatwater wrote: What is the best way to set up a top rope on uneven bolts?
equalize with a runner.
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brownie710
Jul 8, 2008, 3:52 PM
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i have a small cliff near my house where the local colleges practice anchoring/climbing and all routes have bolts where one bolt is set 12-15" higher than the other.
two methods i have used are- biner each bolt clip a double length sling, pull the top (the sling that is going from between the two biners) down to meet the bottom of the sling (avoiding the AD triangle) and do an overhand or 8 on a bite to finish, then use two o&o biners to secure the rope
Or- same thing with a 20' cordellete
just don't TR off the anchor chains
be safe
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sungam
Jul 8, 2008, 4:00 PM
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brownie710 wrote: i have a small cliff near my house where the local colleges practice anchoring/climbing and all routes have bolts where one bolt is set 12-15" higher than the other. two methods i have used are- biner each bolt clip a double length sling, pull the top (the sling that is going from between the two biners) down to meet the bottom of the sling (avoiding the AD triangle) and do an overhand or 8 on a bite to finish, then use two o&o biners to secure the rope Or- same thing with a 20' cordellete just don't TR off the anchor chains be safe
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brownie710
Jul 8, 2008, 4:04 PM
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yes, parts of it are mossy
oh i see, "is mostly right"
critique away scottsman!
some will say to use shortening knots to reduce shockloading the anchor if one blows., with the 6" extension you would get, plus the fact your TR i don't bother but hey, dangers my middle name
(This post was edited by brownie710 on Jul 8, 2008, 4:06 PM)
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donald949
Jul 8, 2008, 4:06 PM
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getout87 wrote: idflatwater wrote: What is the best way to set up a top rope on uneven bolts? equalize with a runner.
See picture #5
http://chauvinguides.com/Anchoring.PDF
Don
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sungam
Jul 8, 2008, 4:31 PM
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DONZ CLIGZ, IZZA ILOVEYOU WORMZ VIRIZ!!!!
OMFGWTFBBQ!!!!!!
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crimpandgo
Jul 8, 2008, 4:40 PM
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brownie710 wrote: i have a small cliff near my house where the local colleges practice anchoring/climbing and all routes have bolts where one bolt is set 12-15" higher than the other. two methods i have used are- biner each bolt clip a double length sling, pull the top (the sling that is going from between the two biners) down to meet the bottom of the sling (avoiding the AD triangle) and do an overhand or 8 on a bite to finish, then use two o&o biners to secure the rope Or- same thing with a 20' cordellete just don't TR off the anchor chains be safe
what, then is the purpose of the chains exactly??
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donald949
Jul 8, 2008, 5:32 PM
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sungam wrote: DONZ CLIGZ, IZZA ILOVEYOU WORMZ VIRIZ!!!! OMFGWTFBBQ!!!!!!
Thanks for the warm wishes. Yes we did have a good 4th of July BBQ over here in the States.
Cheers, Don
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sungam
Jul 8, 2008, 5:38 PM
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crimpandgo wrote: brownie710 wrote: i have a small cliff near my house where the local colleges practice anchoring/climbing and all routes have bolts where one bolt is set 12-15" higher than the other. two methods i have used are- biner each bolt clip a double length sling, pull the top (the sling that is going from between the two biners) down to meet the bottom of the sling (avoiding the AD triangle) and do an overhand or 8 on a bite to finish, then use two o&o biners to secure the rope Or- same thing with a 20' cordellete just don't TR off the anchor chains be safe what, then is the purpose of the chains exactly??
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crimpandgo
Jul 8, 2008, 5:42 PM
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sungam wrote: crimpandgo wrote: brownie710 wrote: i have a small cliff near my house where the local colleges practice anchoring/climbing and all routes have bolts where one bolt is set 12-15" higher than the other. two methods i have used are- biner each bolt clip a double length sling, pull the top (the sling that is going from between the two biners) down to meet the bottom of the sling (avoiding the AD triangle) and do an overhand or 8 on a bite to finish, then use two o&o biners to secure the rope Or- same thing with a 20' cordellete just don't TR off the anchor chains be safe what, then is the purpose of the chains exactly?? rapping or lowering, constant TR use wears them out ahead of thier time, causing unneccasary replacement. if you're going to TR, extend the cains with a screwgate QD or sommat to reduce the wear.
agreed [/:)]
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sonso45
Jul 8, 2008, 5:45 PM
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I gotta second that thought. If you recall, the shuts at Atlantis in Oak Flat were nearly worn through from all the gumbies TRing through them. If you can't just put two draws or an equalized sling on the anchor, then you are adding to the problem. Especially if you climb with new folks.
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majid_sabet
Jul 8, 2008, 6:41 PM
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Aunor
FYI, the second link you provided shows an anchor which is totally classified under CF system.
Let see if someone can guess why.
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Roasta
Jul 8, 2008, 7:06 PM
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Slightly of topic here but they are interesting methods for the direct tie in option. Pic 6 and 10 and all of the text referencing these is not something I would have thought a Guide would promote in a theory type PDF if they know their stuff.
There is some serious splitting of the fig 8 knot going on and a whole lack of locking or opposed carabiners used.
Not that it is always possible to have lockers or enough non lockers - I just think if one is to administer a text book style PDF one has to ensure it portrays the 'safest' references or at least highlight what is better but not always practical.
Just my opinion. Be careful what you take as gospel I guess.
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majid_sabet
Jul 8, 2008, 7:11 PM
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His setup is what I use to teach my students not to do while rock climbing. I mean take a look at all that sh*t he rigged for a simple 2 point anchor.
HOW MANY BINERS are attached between the belayer and the anchor on both side?
Why is he belaying off his harness and not the anchor ?
why are they cross over Xs in between two points and what is the point ?
runners in line with cords/rope/ CF in to his harness ?
This a total mess by a n00b to hurt other n00bs
ohh, he does say redundancy and his left side anchor biner is loaded on the minor axis on the green sling
sure
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jul 8, 2008, 7:15 PM)
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donald949
Jul 8, 2008, 7:14 PM
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Roasta wrote: Slightly of topic here but they are interesting methods for the direct tie in option. Pic 6 and 10 and all of the text referencing these is not something I would have thought a Guide would promote in a theory type PDF if they know their stuff. There is some serious splitting of the fig 8 knot going on and a whole lack of locking or opposed carabiners used. Not that it is always possible to have lockers or enough non lockers - I just think if one is to administer a text book style PDF one has to ensure it portrays the 'safest' references or at least highlight what is better but not always practical. Just my opinion. Be careful what you take as gospel I guess.
Yea, I try not to split the figure 8 knot like that, not that I've heard one way or the other. Just seams that you wouldn't want to pull the knot apart like that.
Don
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crimpandgo
Jul 8, 2008, 7:14 PM
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why do you doubt?
I have seen bolts worn like that at Jack's canyon. Its scary to get to the top of a climb only to find out you must get back down via a bolt worn almost all the way through.
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Roasta
Jul 8, 2008, 7:17 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: Aunor FYI, the second link you provided shows an anchor which is totally classified under CF system. Let see if someone can guess why.
Well just to keep you happy Majid. I will guess there appears to be some belaying direct from the harness going on, lots of biners on biners (non locking) which could be avoided and with the belayer's rope running though them. Not the clearest photo to see though.
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Roasta
Jul 8, 2008, 7:23 PM
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donald949 wrote: Roasta wrote: Slightly of topic here but they are interesting methods for the direct tie in option. Pic 6 and 10 and all of the text referencing these is not something I would have thought a Guide would promote in a theory type PDF if they know their stuff. There is some serious splitting of the fig 8 knot going on and a whole lack of locking or opposed carabiners used. Not that it is always possible to have lockers or enough non lockers - I just think if one is to administer a text book style PDF one has to ensure it portrays the 'safest' references or at least highlight what is better but not always practical. Just my opinion. Be careful what you take as gospel I guess. Yea, I try not to split the figure 8 knot like that, not that I've heard one way or the other. Just seams that you wouldn't want to pull the knot apart like that. Don
General rescue text stipulates 60deg max. Unlike his 180deg effort. If he had used an Alpine butterfly (3 way loading) you would get away with it. Still not the best setup though IMO.
Cheers
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laanguiano
Jul 8, 2008, 10:05 PM
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There is a problem with the spadeout pictures. They show the carabiner only going through one of the ropes, when it should infact go through both rope loops.
FYI !!!
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sungam
Jul 8, 2008, 10:14 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: Aunor FYI, the second link you provided shows an anchor which is totally classified under CF system. Let see if someone can guess why.
What do I win?
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donald949
Jul 8, 2008, 11:21 PM
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Roasta wrote: donald949 wrote: Roasta wrote: Slightly of topic here but they are interesting methods for the direct tie in option. Pic 6 and 10 and all of the text referencing these is not something I would have thought a Guide would promote in a theory type PDF if they know their stuff. There is some serious splitting of the fig 8 knot going on and a whole lack of locking or opposed carabiners used. Not that it is always possible to have lockers or enough non lockers - I just think if one is to administer a text book style PDF one has to ensure it portrays the 'safest' references or at least highlight what is better but not always practical. Just my opinion. Be careful what you take as gospel I guess. Yea, I try not to split the figure 8 knot like that, not that I've heard one way or the other. Just seams that you wouldn't want to pull the knot apart like that. Don General rescue text stipulates 60deg max. Unlike his 180deg effort. If he had used an Alpine butterfly (3 way loading) you would get away with it. Still not the best setup though IMO. Cheers
Butterfly, yea that would be the ticket, much better than an 8 at that location. Good job Roasta.
:Don
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curt
Jul 11, 2008, 12:43 AM
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idflatwater wrote: What is the best way to set up a top rope on uneven bolts?
Uneven slings.
Curt
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