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clintcummins
Nov 5, 2002, 9:13 AM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 135
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There is a good article on Pete Cleveland
in Climbing #128 (1991), by Brad Werntz.
I've listed some of his early hard
climbs on a small web page:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hard.htm
Briefly:
Superpin 5.11c R, Needles, 1967
Bagatelle 5.12c/d toprope, Devil's Lake,
1968 or 69
Phlogiston 5.13a, Devil's Lake, 1977
[ This Message was edited by: clintcummins on 2002-11-05 01:15 ]
[ This Message was edited by: clintcummins on 2002-11-05 01:20 ]
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jgill
Nov 20, 2002, 5:28 AM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: May 18, 2002
Posts: 653
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I climbed and bouldered with Pete on several occasions during the 1960s. A very smart guy, and very competitive. He earned a PhD in Chemistry from Iowa state, then, later, obtained an MD, and practised medicine in the Wisconsin prison system for a number of years. He was an excellent boulderer - I particularly remember us doing the first ascent of the Outlet boulder problem in the Needles of the Black Hills of South Dakota. I also belayed and observed him doing a FA in the Ten Pin area of the Needles, requiring absolutely calm nerves on tiny nubbins with great exposure - he had "nerves of steel".
After Chouinard and Kamps had experienced a long discouraging fall on the north face of the Crooked Thumb in the Tetons, and gave it up, he went up and completed the ascent. Believe me, Yvon and Bob did not discourage easily! He also made the first free ascent of Satisfaction Buttress in Garnet Canyon of the Tetons. He was a terrific climber, and it was a privilege to have known him.
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