|
sibat
Aug 14, 2008, 7:28 PM
Post #26 of 43
(685 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2008
Posts: 16
|
I'm a nOOb. Don't hate... I have heard the word screamer a few times and have no idea what it means. Can I ask for a little enlightenment?
|
|
|
|
|
carbonrx8
Aug 14, 2008, 7:35 PM
Post #27 of 43
(680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2006
Posts: 267
|
sibat wrote: I'm a nOOb. Don't hate... I have heard the word screamer a few times and have no idea what it means. Can I ask for a little enlightenment?
They are essentially long slings that have been "accordioned" and then sewn together with stitching. The stitching is of a strength such that the stitching rips at a given force (around 500# IIRC). You normally sling marginal pro with these so that the pro "feels" no more than the force required to rip the stitching. These are NOT used to attach yourself to a rope as a poster suggested. I think she was just being facecious.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Aug 14, 2008, 7:37 PM
Post #29 of 43
(675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
sibat wrote: I'm a nOOb. Don't hate... I have heard the word screamer a few times and have no idea what it means. Can I ask for a little enlightenment?
|
|
|
|
|
kennoyce
Aug 14, 2008, 7:49 PM
Post #30 of 43
(668 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338
|
Just one more yes to the original question. You can use a static line for top roping. The difference between a static line, and a dynamic line or climbing rope (in case the OP doesn't know) is the amount of stretch in the rope. A static line is not truly static (no stretch at all), it just doesn't stretch as much as a dynamic line. Basically when top roping there is quite a bit of rope out which can stretch (minimally) to absorb the shock of a fall, and the fall will be short because there is very little slack. So basically feel free to top rope on the static line as long as you would like, just don't do any leading until you get a dynamic rope. Hope this helps. (Yes I do care about the safety of your children)
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Aug 14, 2008, 7:52 PM
Post #31 of 43
(674 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Many who offer advice freely on this site are just a notch-above-noob themselves, though you'd never notice this reading their seasoned advice.
So the caveat emptor about trusting internet advice is WELL PLACED.
Me? When seeking input about some climbing topic I'm more than willing to consider internet inputs. But I reserve final judgement for myself.
Further, I'd put the advice of a JT512, for example, a few light years ahead of the vast majority of rc.com advisors, generally speaking.
In other words, over time I (and most others) identify posters who seem to (DO) know what they are talking about. We place more weight to their words than we do others - a lot more.
I've top roped many times with static. I haven't topped my kids with one but I HAVE TR'd them on a single 8.1 dynamic, haha.
Ultimately it is the parents' responsibility and job to ensure the safety of their children. No Internet Advisor can stand in for parental judgement.
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Aug 14, 2008, 7:54 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
sibat
Aug 14, 2008, 8:02 PM
Post #32 of 43
(667 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2008
Posts: 16
|
haha, cool. It's good to know. I could tell the poster was making a joke but I was the guy who laughed when everyone else laughed but deep down inside, I was confused!
Unfortunately I feel as though if I WERE to be using some maky pro- the addition of an anchor piece named "screamer" would not ease my mind! hahahahha
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Aug 14, 2008, 8:03 PM
Post #33 of 43
(664 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
dingus wrote: Many who offer advice freely on this site are just a notch-above-noob themselves, though you'd never notice this reading their seasoned advice. So the caveat emptor about trusting internet advice is WELL PLACED. Me? When seeking input about some climbing topic I'm more than willing to consider internet inputs. But I reserve final judgement for myself. Further, I'd put the advice of a JT512, for example, a few light years ahead of the vast majority of rc.com advisors, generally speaking. In other words, over time I (and most others) identify posters who seem to (DO) know what they are talking about. We place more weight to their words than we do others - a lot more.
I've top roped many times with static. I haven't topped my kids with one but I HAVE TR'd them on a single 8.1 dynamic, haha. Ultimately it is the parents' responsibility and job to ensure the safety of their children. No Internet Advisor can stand in for parental judgement. DMT
In case you couldn't tell, DMT is one of those posters of whom he speaks.
|
|
|
|
|
carbonrx8
Aug 14, 2008, 8:24 PM
Post #34 of 43
(649 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2006
Posts: 267
|
stymingersfink wrote: dingus wrote: Many who offer advice freely on this site are just a notch-above-noob themselves, though you'd never notice this reading their seasoned advice. So the caveat emptor about trusting internet advice is WELL PLACED. Me? When seeking input about some climbing topic I'm more than willing to consider internet inputs. But I reserve final judgement for myself. Further, I'd put the advice of a JT512, for example, a few light years ahead of the vast majority of rc.com advisors, generally speaking. In other words, over time I (and most others) identify posters who seem to (DO) know what they are talking about. We place more weight to their words than we do others - a lot more. I've top roped many times with static. I haven't topped my kids with one but I HAVE TR'd them on a single 8.1 dynamic, haha. Ultimately it is the parents' responsibility and job to ensure the safety of their children. No Internet Advisor can stand in for parental judgement. DMT In case you couldn't tell, DMT is one of those posters of whom he speaks.
I am also one of whom DMT speaks, though at the complete other end of the spectrum, i.e., n00b. DO NOT LISTEN TO WHAT I SAY AS YOU MAY DIE.
edited to bold dmt's reference to my classification. Complete disclosure don't you know.
(This post was edited by carbonrx8 on Aug 14, 2008, 8:26 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Aug 14, 2008, 8:26 PM
Post #35 of 43
(643 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
carbonrx8 wrote: stymingersfink wrote: dingus wrote: Many who offer advice freely on this site are just a notch-above-noob themselves, though you'd never notice this reading their seasoned advice. So the caveat emptor about trusting internet advice is WELL PLACED. Me? When seeking input about some climbing topic I'm more than willing to consider internet inputs. But I reserve final judgement for myself. Further, I'd put the advice of a JT512, for example, a few light years ahead of the vast majority of rc.com advisors, generally speaking. In other words, over time I (and most others) identify posters who seem to (DO) know what they are talking about. We place more weight to their words than we do others - a lot more.
I've top roped many times with static. I haven't topped my kids with one but I HAVE TR'd them on a single 8.1 dynamic, haha. Ultimately it is the parents' responsibility and job to ensure the safety of their children. No Internet Advisor can stand in for parental judgement. DMT In case you couldn't tell, DMT is one of those posters of whom he speaks. I am also one of whom DMT speaks, though at the complete other end of the spectrum, i.e., n00b. DO NOT LISTEN TO WHAT I SAY AS YOU MAYWILL DIE.
|
|
|
|
|
binrat
Aug 14, 2008, 9:54 PM
Post #36 of 43
(618 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
|
king rat;
really to lead with static rope you require distance between the belayer and yourself to get enough absorption ability require to take a fall safely. In saying this you also have to have a means that everytime you clip pro that you don't lesson the distance by introducing ineffective change of direction.
"IF" I had to lead with static (read life or death situation) I would use pulleys clipped into the 1st several pcs of pro, I would have the belayer almost at ropes end belaying me. He / she would move forward as I ascended, keep the max amount of rope in the system.
This would have to be if I stay I die type of scenario.
have at it.
binrat
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Aug 14, 2008, 10:14 PM
Post #37 of 43
(609 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
binrat wrote: king rat; really to lead with static rope you require distance between the belayer and yourself to get enough absorption ability require to take a fall safely. In saying this you also have to have a means that everytime you clip pro that you don't lesson the distance by introducing ineffective change of direction. "IF" I had to lead with static (read life or death situation) I would use pulleys clipped into the 1st several pcs of pro, I would have the belayer almost at ropes end belaying me. He / she would move forward as I ascended, keep the max amount of rope in the system. This would have to be if I stay I die type of scenario. have at it. binrat
The best part about this post is that it is almost impossible to understand.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
binrat
Aug 14, 2008, 11:36 PM
Post #38 of 43
(571 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
|
jt512 wrote: binrat wrote: king rat; really to lead with static rope you require distance between the belayer and yourself to get enough absorption ability require to take a fall safely. In saying this you also have to have a means that everytime you clip pro that you don't lesson the distance by introducing ineffective change of direction. "IF" I had to lead with static (read life or death situation) I would use pulleys clipped into the 1st several pcs of pro, I would have the belayer almost at ropes end belaying me. He / she would move forward as I ascended, keep the max amount of rope in the system. This would have to be if I stay I die type of scenario. have at it. binrat The best part about this post is that it is almost impossible to understand. Jay
Jay:
To make up for the lack of stretch - more rope between belayer and climber.
To make up for the resistance of rope running through biners to climber - pulleys inserted on the 1st couple of pcs of gear.
Better?
binrat
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Aug 14, 2008, 11:38 PM
Post #39 of 43
(569 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
binrat wrote: jt512 wrote: binrat wrote: king rat; really to lead with static rope you require distance between the belayer and yourself to get enough absorption ability require to take a fall safely. In saying this you also have to have a means that everytime you clip pro that you don't lesson the distance by introducing ineffective change of direction. "IF" I had to lead with static (read life or death situation) I would use pulleys clipped into the 1st several pcs of pro, I would have the belayer almost at ropes end belaying me. He / she would move forward as I ascended, keep the max amount of rope in the system. This would have to be if I stay I die type of scenario. have at it. binrat The best part about this post is that it is almost impossible to understand. Jay Jay: To make up for the lack of stretch - more rope between belayer and climber. To make up for the resistance of rope running through biners to climber - pulleys inserted on the 1st couple of pcs of gear. Better? binrat
Not really. The clearer you make it, the more likely someone will be to think you know what you're talking about.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
binrat
Aug 14, 2008, 11:50 PM
Post #40 of 43
(567 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
|
it is used by some for tower rescue where the rescuers only have static rope.
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Aug 15, 2008, 12:08 AM
Post #41 of 43
(564 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
binrat wrote: it is used by some for tower rescue where the rescuers only have static rope.
I'm with Jay on this one, and would never "lead" on a static rope to do a rescue on a tower. If I needed to free-climb a tower while maintaining 100% tie-off, I would leap-frog my shock-absorbing lanyards up the tower structure. However, this would only be necessary if the safety-climb had been compromised or the climber needing rescue were out on a tower arm.
STFU, don't get someone hurt.
|
|
|
|
|
MikaK
Aug 15, 2008, 7:30 AM
Post #42 of 43
(535 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2007
Posts: 29
|
When top roping there is certain amount of friction in most places which will in time destroy the rope used but a cheaper static rope is better in this sense then more expensive dynamic rope. I should not post while trying to watch a baby as that can lead to post being slightly less worded then was my original intention.
|
|
|
|
|
king_rat
Aug 15, 2008, 11:33 AM
Post #43 of 43
(495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 20, 2005
Posts: 365
|
binrat wrote: jt512 wrote: binrat wrote: king rat; really to lead with static rope you require distance between the belayer and yourself to get enough absorption ability require to take a fall safely. In saying this you also have to have a means that everytime you clip pro that you don't lesson the distance by introducing ineffective change of direction. "IF" I had to lead with static (read life or death situation) I would use pulleys clipped into the 1st several pcs of pro, I would have the belayer almost at ropes end belaying me. He / she would move forward as I ascended, keep the max amount of rope in the system. This would have to be if I stay I die type of scenario. have at it. binrat The best part about this post is that it is almost impossible to understand. Jay Jay: To make up for the lack of stretch - more rope between belayer and climber. To make up for the resistance of rope running through biners to climber - pulleys inserted on the 1st couple of pcs of gear. Better? binrat
"To make up for the lack of stretch - more rope between belayer and climber." how does this work a when leading, I'm strugling to understand. how do you add extra rope between belayer and climber, surley the amount of rope is dictated by the leader's diastace form the belayer and the positioning of any runners?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
