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nklotz
Sep 16, 2008, 11:09 PM
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I did some beginner classes last year for ice climbing and I was going to buy boots this year. I have already bought a pair of step-in crampons, so I was wondering what people recommend.
Which boots you own?
How comfortable they are?
What is the lowest temp. you have been with them?
Also, what do you usually climb with them?
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rhythm164
Sep 16, 2008, 11:25 PM
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La Sportiva Nepal Extremes
Super comfy,warm, supportive, had them for some super chilly temps, (think Adirondacks in Jan./Feb.) for climbing and mountaineering, kept me warm no problem. Usually climb anything up to NEI 5 and mixed whatever. Nice and sensitive w/o the fruit boot inconveniance. durable, verstile, wouldn't trade up for anything.
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Roots
Sep 16, 2008, 11:30 PM
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I use Vasque - have Ice9000 and M-finity..both are great but depends on the temps. As for you...depends on your foot shape. It's all about fit.
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sungam
Sep 16, 2008, 11:39 PM
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nklotz wrote: I did some beginner classes last year for ice climbing and I was going to buy boots this year. I have already bought a pair of step-in crampons, so I was wondering what people recommend. Which boots you own? How comfortable they are? What is the lowest temp. you have been with them? Also, what do you usually climb with them?
Good for walk-in, not so good for the ice...
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swaghole
Sep 16, 2008, 11:41 PM
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nklotz wrote: I did some beginner classes last year for ice climbing and I was going to buy boots this year. I have already bought a pair of step-in crampons, so I was wondering what people recommend. Which boots you own? How comfortable they are? What is the lowest temp. you have been with them? Also, what do you usually climb with them?
I started with Lowe Civetta plastic double boots (got them new for $25 - yeah that was an awesome deal). Good for beginer but heavy and not the best for longer approaches.
After 2 seasons of ice, I got some LaSportiva Trango Extreme Ice GTX. The flexible ankle allows easier walking on long approaches and more precise foot placement on vertical ice.
I just purchased a new pair of LaSportive Nepal Evo GTX. I lucked out again and found them new for $240. I haven't climbed with them yet but they are a beafier boot the the Extreme and are much warmer.
I find both the LaSportive boots pretty confortable and I would never go back to the double boots for what I do. I have found all 3 pairs to be warm enough for long -20 days (Celsius - that real f_ing cold) but the Extreme are on the lighter side. I climb WI ice and also use them for winter mountaineering on icy slopes.
BTW, I am selling the Civetta (9.5 or 42.5) for $150
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granite_grrl
Sep 17, 2008, 12:42 AM
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I've got some Technica boots that I got when getting into ice. Yeah, they don't fit great for actually ice climbing, not bad for the approach, and they are actually pretty warm (been climbing when its pretty damn cold in them). But I have to tighten them up a lot to limit heal lift when climbing, cutting off a bit of circulation, which will make for cold feet. 
What I would really like is a pair of Sportiva boots....like the Nepal EVOs.....in 42.5...I just don't think I'll be able to afford them this year if I have to get them for retail....(hint hint).
(This post was edited by granite_grrl on Sep 17, 2008, 12:43 AM)
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tigerlilly
Sep 17, 2008, 1:29 AM
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Zamberlan Granite GTX RR's. Don't look for them in the US. Only place that Google turned them up was in Poland. They rock! They're comfy, warm (was fine in single digits with minus single digit windchills) and they fit my really, really skinny feet. I searched high and low for something that would fit (even LaSportivas are too wide for me) and found this lonely pair brand new in the consignment section of Outdoor Gear Exchange. They fit like they were made for me, which is probably why they were still on the shelf. I use them for vertical ice and hienous approaches to vertical ice.
Ok, so why would I ramble on about an unobtainable pair of boots that only fit me? Because fit is important, and you have to find a pair that fits you. Take all the advice you get in this post and they go try on some of these models, but don't go away with the idea that a particular boot is "best". What fits you and serves your needs is "best".
Climb on!
Kathy
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swaghole
Sep 17, 2008, 9:49 AM
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tigerlilly wrote: Zamberlan Granite GTX RR's. Don't look for them in the US. Only place that Google turned them up was in Poland. They rock! They're comfy, warm (was fine in single digits with minus single digit windchills) and they fit my really, really skinny feet. I searched high and low for something that would fit (even LaSportivas are too wide for me) and found this lonely pair brand new in the consignment section of Outdoor Gear Exchange. They fit like they were made for me, which is probably why they were still on the shelf. I use them for vertical ice and hienous approaches to vertical ice. Ok, so why would I ramble on about an unobtainable pair of boots that only fit me? Because fit is important, and you have to find a pair that fits you. Take all the advice you get in this post and they go try on some of these models, but don't go away with the idea that a particular boot is "best". What fits you and serves your needs is "best". Climb on! Kathy
For what it's worth, Scarpa makes the Summit GTX as a women's only model. My wife climbs with those boots. They have a narrower fit and extra insulation to keep women's feet warmer. These boots are pretty easily available in North Americe.
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brownie710
Sep 17, 2008, 10:57 AM
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sportiva Nepals EVO
great for ice and approach,
so far great in weathr as cold as10 degrees, feet never got cold, unusually as they usually did with other boots
nice and comfy with a pair of superfeet insoles (green ones)
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sungam
Sep 17, 2008, 11:01 AM
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brownie710 wrote: sportiva Nepals EVO great for ice and approach, so far great in weathr as cold as10 degrees, feet never got cold, unusually as they usually did with other boots nice and comfy with a pair of superfeet insoles (green ones)
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retro
Sep 17, 2008, 11:28 AM
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La Sportiva Nepal Extreme EVO....that have replaced my older model Nepal Etremes of 10 years. Well built boot, relatively lightweight, warm and just a great all around climber!
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chossmonkey
Sep 17, 2008, 11:50 AM
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sungam wrote: nklotz wrote: I did some beginner classes last year for ice climbing and I was going to buy boots this year. I have already bought a pair of step-in crampons, so I was wondering what people recommend. Which boots you own? How comfortable they are? What is the lowest temp. you have been with them? Also, what do you usually climb with them? Scarpa Freny. Good for walk-in, not so good for the ice...
I thought those were supposed to be decent?
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sungam
Sep 17, 2008, 12:39 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: sungam wrote: nklotz wrote: I did some beginner classes last year for ice climbing and I was going to buy boots this year. I have already bought a pair of step-in crampons, so I was wondering what people recommend. Which boots you own? How comfortable they are? What is the lowest temp. you have been with them? Also, what do you usually climb with them? Scarpa Freny. Good for walk-in, not so good for the ice... Is it the boot or the fit? I thought those were supposed to be decent?
I'm making excuses.
Okay, they rock for the walk in, and are good for what little ice I've used them on, but when mixed climbing I SWEAR I can feel mad pressure points from my crampons on them. Mainly around the sides. Dont get them when climbing rock without poons.
Not comfortable.
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brownie710
Sep 17, 2008, 1:02 PM
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hilarious scotsman! no, i actually have the laddie version (yellow)
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sungam
Sep 17, 2008, 1:07 PM
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brownie710 wrote: hilarious scotsman! no, i actually have the laddie version (yellow)
Although they do make green nepals of some sort, I think.
The wintergreen superfeet are extra insulating or something gucci like that.
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lwilson
Sep 17, 2008, 1:19 PM
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nklotz wrote: I did some beginner classes last year for ice climbing and I was going to buy boots this year. I have already bought a pair of step-in crampons, so I was wondering what people recommend. Which boots you own? Women's Nepal EVO, but of course they have a men's version. How comfortable they are? Very comfy, has a removable tongue if you want to go with thicker socks, and they are decently light weight. Though, I have found, and I am sure this is the case with most ice boots, you have to get your lacing system down just right in order to find that comfy spot.
What is the lowest temp. you have been with them? With a wind chill, likely 0'F. Also, what do you usually climb with them? Sometimes routes with boulder/scree covered hilly approaches, technical 1-3 pitch routes. Everything from easy ice to the more challenging where you are really on your feet. |
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cantbuymefriends
Sep 17, 2008, 1:45 PM
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I use Scarpa Freney, the old, all-blue model.
I'v used them for full-day iceclimbing outings down to -15 C, and it wasn't my feet that were cold.
I climb up to WI 5 with Grivel G-14's. That's the limit for me, not for the boots.
They are comfy enough for mountain and glacier hiking as well (have done very little of that). I get a pressure point on top of my middle toe on my left foot, but I get that in some other boots as well, so that's probably me...
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brownie710
Sep 17, 2008, 2:22 PM
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even more hilarious, i thought the wintergreen comment was some scottish humor about me having the green Nepals (those are the women's version)
yes, your right, wintergreen insoles.
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Skabbi
Sep 17, 2008, 2:26 PM
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Greetings!
Long time listener, first time caller.
Now, on the topic...
I have the La Sportiva Nepal EVO gtx. Very comfortable boot, warm, dry and sits well. Well worth the money I payed for the, which was alot.
Many mountaineering boots on the market are not waterproof. The reasoning behind that is that when you are climbing ice, there is no water anyway. However, in my experience, approaches are often wet and even the climbing in many cases. So my opinion is that it's well worth paying a little extra for a fully waterproof boot.
The laceing system allows you to tighten them as much as you like but it's easy to over-tighten them. You need to find out what's comfortable for the hike in and what works best for climbing. I usually tighten the laces before the climb and loosen them again for the hike out.
Good luck
Ska
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sungam
Sep 17, 2008, 2:30 PM
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you never notice the pressure around the sides where the crampons go?
The points I get it the most, specially when edging or smearing:
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robbovius
Sep 17, 2008, 2:33 PM
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Scarpa Invernos. Beefy plastics with inner liners. fit is good, they can edge like crazy minus poonz. they're a bit heavy and don't like to be tied loose for walking, especially up snowy trails that are all polished from previous glissades, but on those same trails they'll kick steps forever, or until your legs start to ache from kicking.
haven't had them out in REAL cold stuff yet, only down to the 20s. I've climbed medium angle ramps and short vert W1-W2 with them. I've hiked up glissade-polished trails - "stairmasters" with them, they worked great.
if anyhting, they are a little tight over my ankle joint on the sides, and press my socks into the skin which gets uncomfortable after 4-5 hours of wearing. silk/nylon sock liners might fix that. I'll let you know...
damn, all this talk of ice and ice gear is getting me ALL fired up to swing a tool or two
they make my feet look dangerous ;-)
(This post was edited by robbovius on Sep 17, 2008, 2:43 PM)
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sungam
Sep 17, 2008, 2:53 PM
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Horizontal frontpoints4lyfe :P
(although I'm seriously considering getting some mono's...)
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qwert
Sep 17, 2008, 3:44 PM
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Scarpa Freney XT i think
That totally spacy looking things with the silver and silvery blue leather and the kevlar.
very light
Fuckin cold
not waterproof at all
but really great hiking boots, as long as it doesnt get wet or cold.
also, as far as i can judge, really great for ice climbing, as long as it doesnt get wet or cold.
My next boots will be all leather again, because you can get leather waterproof, wich you cant do with kevlar and stuff.
I have never measured the temperatures, but i got cold feet in them fairly above freezing.
qwert
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AlexCV
Sep 17, 2008, 3:46 PM
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I own Kayland K1 Winter. Nicely insulated. The fit is good, minimal heel lift (but some none the less). They walk okay. I have a pressure point in the lacing system that I can't seem to get rid of.
Before that, Kofflach Degree. The discount little bro of the Arctis Expe. Annoying liner (laced, not very firm open cell foam). Fairly warm but not any warmer then the above single leather boot. The usual plastic qualities (i.e.: it don't bend). The Degree is supposed to be flexible, you still look (and feel) like a robot walking with one. I have lots of problem getting good heel fit, with two lacing systems to deal with and the so-so liner fit (it was a half-size, shells are only made in full-sizes.) They can kick steps till the cow go home though. And they can be found cheap barely used.
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