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sungam
Sep 17, 2008, 3:58 PM
Post #27 of 51
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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qwert wrote: Scarpa Freney XT i think That totally spacy looking things with the silver and silvery blue leather and the kevlar. very light Fuckin cold not waterproof at all but really great hiking boots, as long as it doesnt get wet or cold. also, as far as i can judge, really great for ice climbing, as long as it doesnt get wet or cold. My next boots will be all leather again, because you can get leather waterproof, wich you cant do with kevlar and stuff. I have never measured the temperatures, but i got cold feet in them fairly above freezing. qwert
I find them to be dry. Haven't had wet feet yet (in scotland, no less) so I guess that at least sez something. The can be a wee chilly at belays, though.
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jmeizis
Sep 17, 2008, 4:23 PM
Post #28 of 51
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I own LaSportiva Nuptse double leather boots. I've walked up to 10 miles in a day in them without blister or more discomfort than one could expect walking that far. I've been up to 14k and at temperatures around -40, not together....yet. I usually climb ice and snow with them.
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climbingaggie03
Sep 17, 2008, 5:22 PM
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I like my koflach degree's they're warm, hike really well, and climb reasonably well. For a dedicated Ice boot, they're not the best, but for an all arounder, they're perfect.
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dingus
Sep 17, 2008, 5:34 PM
Post #32 of 51
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I have a pair of Salomon Whatevers; about a decade old now; the nono-insulated version (I live in Cali)
Snow climbs, neve climbs, vertical ice, long approaches, miles in 'walking' crampons, Sierra couloirs, etc.
Best ice boot I ever owned. After a decade of light use they're still as good as ever, even if the vibram soles are a tad worn for wear now.
Coupled with DMM crampons shaped like the foot I finally achieved a ice climbing rig that suited my style and budget.
DMT
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yokese
Sep 17, 2008, 5:46 PM
Post #33 of 51
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Registered: Jan 18, 2006
Posts: 672
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Koflach Degre. A "downgraded" version of the Artics Expedition.
The cheapest Koflachs available. Some people say that they're too soft and bulky for serious ice climbing, but I don't do serious ice climbing. Good enough for approaches, couloirs and easy mixed climbing. Warm enough for winter in Alps.
I've even skied on these boots.
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kane_schutzman
Sep 17, 2008, 7:41 PM
Post #34 of 51
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Registered: May 14, 2005
Posts: 896
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Vasque Ice 9000, worked well for me..
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gargrantuan
Sep 20, 2008, 7:29 PM
Post #35 of 51
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Registered: Apr 1, 2005
Posts: 182
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kayland superIce eVent
they have totally fallen apart after three years of heavy use and have lost pretty much all the insulating qualities that they once had. they climb really well though.
i am buying the Nepal EVO this winter, failing that i will get a pair of those funky Bataans.
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timd
Sep 21, 2008, 11:11 AM
Post #36 of 51
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I have the Koflach Verticles and LaSportiva K4s
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skinner
Sep 23, 2008, 1:31 PM
Post #37 of 51
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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No-one mentioned them yet, so let me resurrect this thread with:
SCARPA OMEGA
Best boots I've ever owned, (and I've owned a lot of boots).
Thermal moldable liners, perfect fit for a change.
Pebax® shell, soft as leather in all the right places.
Carbon fiber inserts, stiff where you need it to be, yet light weight.
Warm, so far I've never been cold in the least.
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thepuddlestore
Sep 26, 2008, 12:40 PM
Post #38 of 51
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skinner wrote: No-one mentioned them yet, so let me resurrect this thread with:
SCARPA OMEGA
[image]http://maxim.seenon.com/img/product/cats/00015418-890313.jpg[/image]
Thermal moldable liners, perfect fit for a change. Pebax® shell, soft as leather in all the right places. Carbon fiber inserts, stiff where you need it to be, yet light weight. Warm, so far I've never been cold in the least.
Best boots I've ever owned, (and I've owned a lot of boots).
I completely agree, i use these babies for everything from winter backpacking with 85+lbs, to mountaineering, to ice. i'm still a noob, it is only the second pair of plastic boots i've owned but when i put them on with my MHW overboots i can sit in -10 f and be toasty. Not to mention you can cook the liners and add a set of insoles when you switch from approach to ascent. Get em.
-redpoint robby
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yodadave
Sep 26, 2008, 1:04 PM
Post #39 of 51
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Registered: Feb 11, 2008
Posts: 510
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sungam,
your problem may be asymmetric boot with a symmetric crampon.
hence the poon sticks oot past the boot, ya 'ken?
Try a different poon on in Tisos down Leith walk or over in glasgy they both have fake ice walls
I'd recommend something by DMM as a lot of theirs are both asymmetric ad you can set them up for mono
You need a serious set for Ouray anyways
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sungam
Sep 26, 2008, 1:24 PM
Post #40 of 51
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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yodadave wrote: sungam, your problem may be asymmetric boot with a symmetric crampon. hence the poon sticks oot past the boot, ya 'ken? Try a different poon on in Tisos down Leith walk or over in glasgy they both have fake ice walls I'd recommend something by DMM as a lot of theirs are both asymmetric ad you can set them up for mono You need a serious set for Ouray anyways
murmur murmur money murmur...
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punk_rocker333
Sep 27, 2008, 1:25 AM
Post #41 of 51
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Registered: Aug 9, 2004
Posts: 387
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How do the Invernos fit when compared to other shoes/boots you own? Did you size them street size or larger? I got a really good deal on these boots but had no chance to try them on.
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blitz933
Sep 27, 2008, 1:55 PM
Post #42 of 51
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Registered: Aug 10, 2006
Posts: 27
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I tried on a *lot* of pairs before I found some boots that really fit my odd shaped feet.
That said, my La Sportiva Lhotse GTX's are great. They are a bit heavy, but I really don't mind that. Heavily insulated leather boots (I've never had cold feet wearing them down to probably -10, and I have chronically cold feet), waterproof (I've only treated them once and have worn them quite a bit, never even had damp feet). They're extremely stiff in the sole (which I like) for edging and crampon use. No problems with sore feet/calf muscles after frontpointing for hours. The tongue on these boots is also very cool, but hard to describe. It's a double wrap design where the leather from the outside of the boot wraps inside the tongue, makes the ankle support very good and stiff, and since it's solid leather all the way around you can stand in water up to the top of the boot and not get wet (there's no tongue seam for water to leak in through). I would not recommend these boots for a lot of hiking or walking on trails, but in the snow/ice they're everything I was looking for.
My feet are pretty large for a climber, I wear size 47-ish depending on brand, so it's hard to even find boots to try on. I drove all over the place trying on different kinds before I found a size 46 pair of these that almost fit, but was a little too tight in the toe. I special ordered the 47's and they're now my favorite boots. I use green Superfeet inserts in them because the stock inserts didn't fit the arch of my foot very well, but thats the only change I've made.
Superfeet are awesome! If you have foot support issues (I have high arches that require support or my feet hurt all the time), try them. I have inserts in all my combat boots, my running shoes (blue ones for running) and several pairs of hiking shoes. You'll be glad you did!
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themattreid
Oct 15, 2008, 2:58 AM
Post #43 of 51
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Registered: Oct 14, 2008
Posts: 26
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Old ass La Sportiva K3 boots. Got them in 97 and they're still going. 
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anykineclimb
Oct 17, 2008, 11:52 AM
Post #44 of 51
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Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
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lol I used to rock the La Sportiva K2s. good boots but a little narrow for me. ended up losing some toenails due to that little mistake.
I then used the Salomon Super mountain 9
This was a flippping awesome boot and I still have them "just in case"I wish Salomon still made boots as I was really happy with these and the Rock Pros also. The SM9s walk really well and are stiff enough for ice. Used these in Pakistan for two months with NO issues at all.
now I'm using the La Sportiva Trango Ice EVO which is amazing! its super light and walks really nicely and the thing I like is you can cinch up the ankle and heel once the approach is done. good times.
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tomtom
Oct 17, 2008, 3:42 PM
Post #45 of 51
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Registered: Jan 9, 2004
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anykineclimb wrote: I then used the Salomon Super mountain 9 This was a flippping awesome boot and I still have them "just in case"I wish Salomon still made boots as I was really happy with these and the Rock Pros also. The SM9s walk really well and are stiff enough for ice. Used these in Pakistan for two months with NO issues at all.
I was a big fan of the fit of Salomon boot, but the quality of their last couple models was crap. I've a pair of their Ice boots, which work great, except the lacing hooks around the ankle have pulled out and the stitching on the tongue is blowing apart.
(This post was edited by tomtom on Oct 17, 2008, 9:25 PM)
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the_climber
Oct 17, 2008, 3:45 PM
Post #46 of 51
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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Which boots? Hmmm, which pair should I list?
There's the double leather Asolo's, Galaxy's I think.
Then there's the Plastic Asolo's Guides, Yellow/Black.
Then there's the LaSportiva Nepal Evo GTX's
Then there was the Old trusty Koflaks, and the LaSportiva Trango Ice
Still haven't found "THE" perfect boot, but I've found 3 pairs that work great!
the Nepals are the most often used now. Plasitc Asolo's for those stupid cold days (but they're getting beat down in their old age). And the Leather Asolo doubles... well, they're in desprite need of a resole, but have served me VERY well on those routes with long aproches and extended glacier travel.
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gunkiemike
Oct 18, 2008, 3:57 PM
Post #47 of 51
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Posts: 2266
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Another Slaompn fan here - have 2 pr of SM9's and one pair of Pro Rocks (which I've used with strap on 'poons up to grade 3+ water ice). Now I'm in Scarpa Freney XT's. Nice and nimble. Coupled with Darts they are 1.5 lb lighter than Salomons+Grade8 combo. Hate the Leverlocks on the Darts but that's for another thread.
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sara_faye
Oct 19, 2008, 4:00 AM
Post #48 of 51
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Registered: Feb 27, 2006
Posts: 82
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swaghole wrote: tigerlilly wrote: Zamberlan Granite GTX RR's. Don't look for them in the US. Only place that Google turned them up was in Poland. They rock! They're comfy, warm (was fine in single digits with minus single digit windchills) and they fit my really, really skinny feet. I searched high and low for something that would fit (even LaSportivas are too wide for me) and found this lonely pair brand new in the consignment section of Outdoor Gear Exchange. They fit like they were made for me, which is probably why they were still on the shelf. I use them for vertical ice and hienous approaches to vertical ice. Ok, so why would I ramble on about an unobtainable pair of boots that only fit me? Because fit is important, and you have to find a pair that fits you. Take all the advice you get in this post and they go try on some of these models, but don't go away with the idea that a particular boot is "best". What fits you and serves your needs is "best". Climb on! Kathy For what it's worth, Scarpa makes the Summit GTX as a women's only model. My wife climbs with those boots. They have a narrower fit and extra insulation to keep women's feet warmer. These boots are pretty easily available in North Americe.
Scarpa makes the Summit GTX in a men's boot as well.
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sara_faye
Oct 19, 2008, 4:09 AM
Post #49 of 51
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Registered: Feb 27, 2006
Posts: 82
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Comfy, easy to lace up, warm and super awesome.
Also, for the Scarpa's I just commented on - I found them wider than the La Sportiva's even with the extra tongue insert and cranking them tight. They were my first choice, I tried them on several times and when I thought I was in love (enough to make the purchase) I found the Evo's... those boots turn my crank. And they're good to climb in too.
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kellymoe
Oct 23, 2008, 3:36 PM
Post #50 of 51
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Registered: Mar 27, 2004
Posts: 45
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Still using my Asolo AFS 101's from 1987.
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