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ja1484
Sep 27, 2008, 1:48 PM
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In the words of Layne Staley, "I stay away".
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kellymoe
Sep 27, 2008, 3:22 PM
Post #27 of 48
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You gunna test it?
It looks good, what other test does it need?
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altelis
Sep 27, 2008, 3:52 PM
Post #28 of 48
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You gunna test it?
It looks good, what other test does it need?
for a one night stand (other than perhaps a clean bill o health...)- nothing
for a piece of gear without any certifications from international/national climbing entities---- at LEAST a ground level bounce-test-the-living-bejeesus-out-of-it!!!!!!!!!!
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sungam
Sep 27, 2008, 3:53 PM
Post #29 of 48
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altelis wrote: You gunna test it?
It looks good, what other test does it need?
for a one night stand (other than perhaps a clean bill o health...)- nothing
for a piece of gear without any certifications from international/national climbing entities---- at LEAST a ground level bounce-test-the-living-bejeesus-out-of-it!!!!!!!!!!Send it to vegastradguy! He'll test it!
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altelis
Sep 27, 2008, 3:56 PM
Post #30 of 48
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what the fuck is going on with the quote fxn today/this thread?
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sungam
Sep 27, 2008, 4:01 PM
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altelis wrote: what the fuck is going on with the quote fxn today/this thread?
If this one comes out funny, since I've double decker checked it, the hamster is lagging behind again.
Maybe he hurt his foot when he fell off the wheel the other night.
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altelis
Sep 27, 2008, 4:03 PM
Post #32 of 48
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sungam wrote: altelis wrote: what the fuck is going on with the quote fxn today/this thread? Cheesetittery. If this one comes out funny, since I've double decker checked it, the hamster is lagging behind again. Maybe he hurt his foot when he fell off the wheel the other night.
seems to be alright. wonder why? oh wells....
ps, i sent you a pretty ignorable invite over on your other climbing partners thread....
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kellymoe
Sep 27, 2008, 4:04 PM
Post #33 of 48
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I'm going to Zion next week. I'll test it on Moonlight.
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sungam
Sep 27, 2008, 4:07 PM
Post #34 of 48
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kellymoe wrote: I'm going to Zion next week. I'll test it on Moonlight.
Don't you think it would be better to test it before moonlight?
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kellymoe
Sep 27, 2008, 4:50 PM
Post #36 of 48
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sungam wrote: kellymoe wrote: I'm going to Zion next week. I'll test it on Moonlight. Erm... Don't you think it would be better to test it before moonlight?
Hell, I wish I were up to doing Moonlight, I'll just be canyoneering with my kids. I'll have to wait till I go to JT next month to giver it a good test.
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bandidopeco
Sep 27, 2008, 8:17 PM
Post #38 of 48
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Did anyone else notice that on the information page the "correct" diagram #5 is actually incorrect, as the cam appears to be upside down?
Not very confidence inspiring.
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Factor2
Sep 27, 2008, 8:26 PM
Post #39 of 48
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bandidopeco wrote: Did anyone else notice that on the information page the "correct" diagram #5 is actually incorrect, as the cam appears to be upside down? Not very confidence inspiring.
I don't see what you mean? looks fine to me. How can the cam be upside down?
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sungam
Sep 27, 2008, 8:54 PM
Post #40 of 48
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Mot cam companies say wider two at the bottom.
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coolcat83
Oct 5, 2008, 5:37 AM
Post #42 of 48
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donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: Mot cam companies say wider two at the bottom. That is correct. I found a better pic on their web page. Funny about the English and the sport climbers on their web site. Also, Like the photos of the cams with an actual Chounard Bod harness. Old School. [image]http://usrockgear.net/img/gear02.jpg[/image] Larger Cam pic [image]http://usrockgear.net/img/cams_l.gif[/image]
anyone else a notice that the stems seem to have a bend in them? like the manufacturing tolerances might not be that close.
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HappinessIsWinning
Oct 6, 2008, 4:27 PM
Post #43 of 48
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Posts: 256
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Is China having stuff made here now? Has our economy gotten THAT bad. Probably not, I would highly question these cams. I can't even understand their warranty,... can you? Seems odd that their English is this bad when they are an American company....
- Diagram 1 : Bad placement, cams will flip over and permanent damage.
- Diagram 2 : Sharp edge reduces strength or permanent damage cams.
- Diagram 3 : The cams reducing adverse torque on the stem. There is chance to slide out of the crack.
- Diagram 4 : Cams should always be place at 55 % between 95% closure.
- Diagram 5 : GS CMAS require having large round support to replacement on the horizontal cracks.
- Diagram 6 : Cams should be replace about 20 degree from vertical wall.
Storage : Cams should be store dry, well vented dry area and place away from corrosives material.
Cleaning : Cams should be cleaned using warm water and light soap, rinse and dry at well ventilated area.
Lubrication : Apply dry slide lubrication and fully dry before use cams.
Limited Warranty : Warranty for one yea from purchase date. Keep original receipt from Retailer.
Our cams are free from defect material and workmanship. Remember one year warranty period, all such liability shall terminate.
Warranty Exclusion : No warranty products normal wear tear, improper use and modification
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snurp
Dec 1, 2008, 2:14 AM
Post #44 of 48
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Registered: Mar 11, 2007
Posts: 40
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Hey guys. US Rock Gear, if I remember correctly, is a fairly new company fronted by a Black Diamond (I think?) chemist. Their cams aren't on the market yet: they come out in January. Right now US Rock Gear is beta testing them. I had to opportunity to try the entire set, so I'll tell you what I found:
They're a lot like the aliens, but the width of the cam lobes is wider which increases the cam/rock contact area. The wire casing is the same as any other, but isn't colored black. There's nice action, the only exception being that there is bend in the stem (which you'll find in any flexible stem small cam). My favorite feature though, was the metal alloy: these little bugs bite into hard, crystally granite like nothing I've ever used before! Every time, I'd place them and when I gave them a little tug they didn't walk at all. I didn't take a fall, but a couple friends of mine have (one climbs for 5.10, the other for organic) and were happy with the way they held. The only complaint I have is there's a little play in the trigger. It's not something that will affect performance, but it takes a little getting used to when you're placing. Oh, and since the metal is pretty soft, of course it's not going to be the best for something like sandstone.
At any rate, I was impressed and as soon as these guys come out I will be purchasing them. All of them!
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patmay81
Dec 1, 2008, 2:53 AM
Post #45 of 48
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I'd climb on them, but I couldn't ever see myself paying $50 for an unknown brand. If a climbing partner (as if I ever had one) was using them, I'd be ok placing and falling on them. But for my money I'll go metiolius- best $50 cam around!
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coolcat83
Dec 1, 2008, 3:36 AM
Post #47 of 48
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Posts: 1007
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altelis wrote: snurp wrote: ...SNIP... I didn't take a fall, but a couple friends of mine have (one climbs for 5.10, the other for organic) and were happy with the way they heldnot trying to be the asshole- this just totally strikes me as funny! how do cams hold, other than the binary option of "they do or they don't"? to be happy with the way the hold a fall is to be happy they didn't fail, eh? 
agreed, if my ass isn't on the ground then i'm happy.
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snurp
Dec 1, 2008, 9:25 AM
Post #48 of 48
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Ha ha, fair point. What I meant was that they didn't walk or shift at all: they just bit in and held.
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