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possum2082
Nov 10, 2008, 6:12 PM
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i got into climbing b/c of my love of being at red river gorge. i first started sport climbing as it was a cheap(er) way to get into the sport. after one year of climbing, i bought a rack last month and have started trad.
my first day out...wow. it was a different world: trusting pro you actually place and remove. i knocked out a couple of 5.4 and 5.5 single pitches. it was scary leading, but i loved it.
this weekend, i tackled my first 5.6 multi (2) pitch (bedtime for bonzo) at the gorge.
i rack up. man, it's so heavy carrying two sets of cams, and a set of nuts, hexes, and draws. the first pitch started on a left leaning dihedral. fingers get me up after a couple of attempts. next i find myself on a giant leaning slab that echoes like nobody's business. putting minimum force on it, i pass up another 30 feet to the crux of the first (a slight overhang). i pulled the overhang and bellied up onto the ledge, ever so graceful. remembering everything john long wrote on anchors, i build my anchor system and get my two buddies up with me.
it's so different. sport climbing seems like a solo sport...but trad is a team effort.
we walk through a squeezing hallway and look at the next pitch. it goes up 20 feet, traverses right, and then angles up to the top of the cliff. i help build an anchor and then start up. the beginning is fine but there doesn't seem to be much pro for the traverse. i finagle a #2 flex in and finish the traverse. only 15 or so feet to go. the hand crack angles up and right with seemingly no feet. i hand jam (or at least attempt my pathetic version of a hand jam). one over the other, one over the other. the exposure is amazing, i can see for miles. the wind is blowing, cold, pushing me around a bit. i slip and recover. i see a jug at the top. i make a reach, grab, and match. i then remember that i have over 10 feet of run out. grabbing a 9 flex, i try it in the crack. no good, 8 will do it. i grab whatever rock is around me and friction my way to the top. it's over. i'm done.
long story, longer, i build an anchor and get my two friends up. high fives all around. we see campers on the ground miles away waving at us. we wave back proud of our view of the gorge that no one else has.
then we noticed a white tube (summit registry). yes, i know, summit registry on a 5.6? flame on. my buddy opens it up and pulls out a cold can of budweiser along with the registry. we are ecstatic. everyone gets two sips and it is empty (and yes, i do know that alcohol and climbing go together like alcohol and climbing). we pack up (taking the can with us) and rappel down the two pitches.
that was the first day that i ever felt like a real climber.
we're heading back in a month b/c my buddy wants to lead it and to replace that can of celebration.
i love trad.
-chris
(edited for spelling)
(This post was edited by possum2082 on Nov 10, 2008, 8:00 PM)
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suilenroc
Nov 10, 2008, 6:18 PM
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Congrats!
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xtremst80
Nov 10, 2008, 6:20 PM
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Good job!
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MikeSaint
Nov 10, 2008, 6:21 PM
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I did that climb earlier in the spring and there was no registry with beer at the top. Lucky 
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boymeetsrock
Nov 10, 2008, 6:23 PM
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Yes congrats! Have fun and stay safe out there!!
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hyongx
Nov 10, 2008, 6:31 PM
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it's not really an epic if nothing bad happens - -
but anyway, I did that route last weekend - nov 1st - and we saw the registry and the budweiser. cool to find out someone got to enjoy it.
you should try party time. two pitch 5.7, steep, juggy, solid, with bolted anchors. pretty nice, but definitely not the same view as bedtime for bonzo. big pro for the first pitch.
if you're looking for a RRG trad partner from lexington, I have a buddy there who says he can't ever find anyone to climb trad with.
(This post was edited by hyongx on Nov 10, 2008, 6:34 PM)
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rsmillbern
Nov 10, 2008, 6:37 PM
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possum2082 wrote: then we noticed a white tube (summit registry). yes, i know, summit registry on a 5.6? flame on. my buddy opens it up and pulls out a cold can of budweiser along with the registry. we are extatic. everyone gets two sips and it is empty (and yes, i do know that alcohol and climbing go together like alcohol and climbing). we pack up (taking the can with us) and rappel down the two pitches.-chris
Summit registry on a 5.6, I love that! I think I may need to buy a case of beer and head out to Table Rock or Shortoff to setup a few easy/moderate summit beers!
It is nice to hear about some first times. Congratulations! That is a nice climb and I look forward to getting back to the Red soon!
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knieveltech
Nov 10, 2008, 6:44 PM
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rsmillbern wrote: possum2082 wrote: then we noticed a white tube (summit registry). yes, i know, summit registry on a 5.6? flame on. my buddy opens it up and pulls out a cold can of budweiser along with the registry. we are extatic. everyone gets two sips and it is empty (and yes, i do know that alcohol and climbing go together like alcohol and climbing). we pack up (taking the can with us) and rappel down the two pitches.-chris Summit registry on a 5.6, I love that! I think I may need to buy a case of beer and head out to Table Rock or Shortoff to setup a few easy/moderate summit beers! It is nice to hear about some first times. Congratulations! That is a nice climb and I look forward to getting back to the Red soon!
Easy summit beers? let me know if you're looking for a 3rd.
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clymber
Nov 10, 2008, 6:51 PM
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just to be curious why would you take 2 sets of cams with you...never did that climb so no idea what the gear is like on it
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robbovius
Nov 10, 2008, 6:53 PM
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possum2082 wrote: i i then remember that i have over 10 feet of run out. -chris
10 feet ain't "runout", that's merely "above the last piece". you're not in official runout territory until there's at least 20 feet between you and the last piece. ;-)
A true epic would have involved some sort of screw-up that might have caused the death or maiming of at least one of the climbing party.
yours is only a pseudo-epic, or simi-epic ;-)
congrats dude, fun, ain't it?
(This post was edited by robbovius on Nov 10, 2008, 6:56 PM)
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robbovius
Nov 10, 2008, 6:54 PM
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clymber wrote: just to be curious why would you take 2 sets of cams with you.
'cuz he's a n00b to tard climbing. its one of the rights of passage, carrying too much gear.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Nov 10, 2008, 6:55 PM)
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cracklover
Nov 10, 2008, 7:26 PM
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Great TR!!! Thanks for sharing!
Think about what you wound up placing. If you had a lot of cams left as you reached belays, you probably did carry too many cams. But of course you should carry whatever makes you feel comfortable.
Lastly, it's hard to tell how close you actually came to falling, but if it was truly touch-and-go, then I would very strongly suggest that you keep your climbing at the level it is now, (5.6) until you either feel really comfortable on the moves, or really efficient at placing gear.
Cheers!
GO
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woodchuck008
Nov 10, 2008, 7:53 PM
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Welcome to GumbyLand. Hey, isn't that a route name somewhere?? Gunks maybe? Nice epic start.
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possum2082
Nov 10, 2008, 8:13 PM
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thanks for all the well wishes!
hyongx, i checked out party time at redriverclimbing...looks like a blast. i'll definitely have to try that in the near future
clymber...i'm a noob as the one guy said and i take my whole rack every time.
also, the reason i have the two sets of cams is b/c after i bought my initial set (37/flex cam), i found a second set (28/flex cam) and couldn't resist. all new. my buddy and i split the price of our rack, so that made it even cheaper (we usually climb together).
then...i also carry hexes b/c i'm a noob. on one of my first climbs, i found a spot for a #9 hex and was able to breathe easy again. so, it's kind of out of loyalty. stupid? yeah.
give me a little time and i'll stop carrying so much crap!
(This post was edited by possum2082 on Nov 10, 2008, 8:19 PM)
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rtwilli4
Nov 10, 2008, 9:31 PM
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cracklover wrote: Great TR!!! Thanks for sharing! Think about what you wound up placing. If you had a lot of cams left as you reached belays, you probably did carry too many cams. But of course you should carry whatever makes you feel comfortable. Lastly, it's hard to tell how close you actually came to falling, but if it was truly touch-and-go, then I would very strongly suggest that you keep your climbing at the level it is now, (5.6) until you either feel really comfortable on the moves, or really efficient at placing gear. Cheers! GO
There is "Flight of the Gumby" at the New.
Also, I recommend "Roadside Attraction" at Roadside Crag. Two pitch 5.7... you could do it in one. Great hand crack, great pro... Good view... for the Red.
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charley
Nov 10, 2008, 10:40 PM
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Congrats on the trad leads. Don't wory about carrying too much gear. You will soon be buying even more. Buying gear is part of trad climbing.
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donald949
Nov 10, 2008, 11:19 PM
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possum2082 wrote: thanks for all the well wishes! hyongx, i checked out party time at redriverclimbing...looks like a blast. i'll definitely have to try that in the near future clymber...i'm a noob as the one guy said and i take my whole rack every time. also, the reason i have the two sets of cams is b/c after i bought my initial set (37/flex cam), i found a second set (28/flex cam) and couldn't resist. all new. my buddy and i split the price of our rack, so that made it even cheaper (we usually climb together). then...i also carry hexes b/c i'm a noob. on one of my first climbs, i found a spot for a #9 hex and was able to breathe easy again. so, it's kind of out of loyalty. stupid? yeah. give me a little time and i'll stop carrying so much crap!
Ain't nothing quite like slotting a #9, especially sideways where it matches the crack perfectly. Amazing how it does that. Climb for days above a #9.
If you're using your sport QD's, get some Alpine Runners or tie your own out of 11/16 webbing. They'll pull out on your gear less.
Good write up, nothing like your first trad lead. D
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socalclimber
Nov 10, 2008, 11:45 PM
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Cool deal. Nice job. Trust me, not an epic, but a fine job. When you have your first epic, you'll know it.
Again, congrats. Now don't go getting all cocky, take your time learing trad and hook up someone who knows what's up.
Good job!
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kennoyce
Nov 11, 2008, 12:01 AM
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Not an epic, but good story none the less.
Congrats on starting to get into real climbing.
Please make sure you are very careful and know what you are doing as there have been way to many accidents lately involving people who are fairly new to trad.
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MykeDronez
Nov 11, 2008, 2:49 AM
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If you liked Bedtime you need to go check out Good Tang at Lower Small Wall- It's a blast for a 5.7 and you will really have to earn the summit-
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billl7
Nov 11, 2008, 3:26 AM
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Nice gumby story. A little melodramatic but it kinda fits!
As for running it out above pro, keep in mind that in general you really don't want to fall on most routes under 5.8. Your fall distance may be more than 150% of what you'd guess, plus there are usually far too many things to hit under 5.8.
Bill L
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tradrenn
Nov 11, 2008, 4:40 AM
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possum2082 wrote: that was the first day that i ever felt like a real climber. <snip> i love trad.
Welcome to the dark side brotha.
I remember when I used to live in Ontario, Canada and my first road trip was to RRG with Granite_girl. We did BfB, I lead the first pitch and GG lead the second but she got off route cause we didn't know where to go, so GG had to climb a tree. Then we got our rope stack, I think it took us over 2 hours to get it done. Funny if you think about it.
I miss being a n00b.
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rockforlife
Nov 11, 2008, 4:43 AM
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kennoyce wrote: Not an epic, but good story none the less. Congrats on starting to get into real climbing. Please make sure you are very careful and know what you are doing as there have been way to many accidents lately involving people who are fairly new to trad.
sorry for going off topic, but i hate this saying, Its not fake climbing if you sport or boulder. just a different kind. I love trad but its not the only way.
O yeah great job on the climb.
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