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wolfeman
Nov 30, 2008, 11:53 AM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2003
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The Doctor and i went down to sedona today to climb a fairly recent John Burcham/Chris Tatum route, put up 2 years ago, called "Wild, Wild West". It is a 6-pitch 5.11- with about a 35-minute approach.
Also, within the last couple of years, a route 100 feet to the right of it called "Miami" fell down. The flake that fell of was probably 150 feet high by 70 feet wide, and a few feet thick. The base is strewn with the rubble and the rock scar is massive.
We recently got a picture from Burcham showing the wild "shi't your pants" variation finish for the 6th pitch that leaves 300 feet of air under your heels.
Looking up at the approach (Left side of the square formation):
Getting closer:
Here's a outline of the flake that used to be on the wall (the white part is newly exposed rock):
looking up the route from the base:
David lead the first pitch, a rounded funky 5.10 (90 feet), and I got the nice 5.9 dihedral above (85 feet):
The next pitch was a 200 foot traverse straight across on a ledge on the North side of the formation, following:
Then there is a little 5.6 move to a rib and back the way you just came:
David leading out on the 5.7 pitch 5 traverse, with the steepness coming up:
I got the last pitch, and it is crazy exposed. The traverse brings you back to that overhanging arete from the picture from the base. Three bolts gets you past the crux ( I didn't get it clean), then traverse to the very edge of the arete and a double roof. The exposed bit involves clipping four bolts as you traverse with the hands under one roof and your feet on the edge of another below. It is an amazing headgame making the move around to the roof, then through.
David followed and we got the summit shots:
and a few nice view shots:
Midgeley Bridge with the Supercrack Towers at the top right:
Three rappels with a 60 meter rope and we were done! Picture of the sweet dihedral on the way down:
All in all a great day out.
Going to try to get at it again tomorrow.
Erik
(This post was edited by wolfeman on Dec 8, 2008, 6:34 PM)
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sonso45
Nov 30, 2008, 5:04 PM
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Registered: Sep 1, 2002
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E, nice report. Photos are great.
(This post was edited by sonso45 on Dec 1, 2008, 6:24 PM)
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scottb
Nov 30, 2008, 5:17 PM
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Registered: Mar 3, 2006
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Very kewll!!! Awesome pics. thanks for sharing.
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lvpyne
Nov 30, 2008, 5:17 PM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2005
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I saw your TR about this route on SuperTopo -- I can't believe that I haven't climbed this route (or even heard of it!) Is it near the Church Spires?
Awesome photos! Totally inspiring...(ha...Sedona pun intended...)
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laurelja
Feb 25, 2009, 5:37 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2004
Posts: 31
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Why does someone not just post the climb under its name? I went looking for it and got nothing till Manny gave me a trip report. Went with Mike Knarzer and Joe Garcia yesterday to do it. What fun and I and sure when I tell others they will want to go too and could use some good beta on approach and the traversing sections. It should be posted on RC as well as Mountain Project.. or is someone boycotting RC (don't blame them)
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j_ung
Feb 25, 2009, 5:52 PM
Post #6 of 8
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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Posting routes in the RC.com DB is pretty easy, though for sure the DB needs some work. Please do. It'll have to be approved before it goes live, but if memory serves, Manny is the AZ editor. 
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andrewG
Feb 25, 2009, 6:09 PM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2008
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No, more in the moose's butte area. http://mountainproject.com/...butte_area/105957681
I've heard 10+ and 11-, but haven't been on it yet. The second pitch looks like a beautiful dihedral, the pics make me excited to go get on it.
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markguycan
Jun 6, 2009, 10:12 PM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 136
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NICE REPORT Eric.
looking forward to the guidebook! I still hope somebody puts in an alternate pitch 3!
here's a couple of pics, previously posted:
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