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xArtx
Jan 11, 2009, 12:39 AM
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Hi Guys,
First post here! :)
Just a simple question really, since I'm beginning to lead some sports climbs outdoors,
and looking to place some extra protection of my own to make up for lack of bolts on some climbs.
Just wondering if cams are supposed to be placed with the
wire facing downward rather than sideways?
I've only ever seen them used in the move "The Decent"
where they were placed in the roof of a cave,
so obviously facing downward.
It seems they would be damaged in a fall if placed horizontal.
Cheers, Art.
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coolcat83
Jan 11, 2009, 1:10 AM
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they should be placed in the direction of pull or as close to it as possible, if it's a flexible stem it should flex to the direction of pull but still it is best to avoid the placement twisting out.
Never saw the movie(wonder how they were used). but also get someone who knows about cams and trad climbing to show you and then practice practice practice before trusting you life to any gear
(This post was edited by coolcat83 on Jan 11, 2009, 1:12 AM)
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angry
Jan 11, 2009, 1:19 AM
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I don't know about the cams but the way they used ice tools in that movie was 100% accurate.
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xArtx
Jan 11, 2009, 1:29 AM
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The only place I remember seeing cams used was where one of the girls
was literally climbing across the roof of a cave so all pro had to be inserted upward (no other option really).
She was swinging from her arms across a roof from one ledge to another so the other girls could cross the rope.
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angry
Jan 11, 2009, 1:45 AM
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xArtx wrote: The only place I remember seeing cams used was where one of the girls was literally climbing across the roof of a cave so all pro had to be inserted upward (no other option really). She was swinging from her arms across a roof from one ledge to another so the other girls could cross the rope.
I remember her campusing across on handjams and had a Hilti hanging off her shoulder the whole time. Total badass. Did she get eaten?
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uhoh
Jan 11, 2009, 1:59 AM
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angry wrote: xArtx wrote: The only place I remember seeing cams used was where one of the girls was literally climbing across the roof of a cave so all pro had to be inserted upward (no other option really). She was swinging from her arms across a roof from one ledge to another so the other girls could cross the rope. I remember her campusing across on handjams and had a Hilti hanging off her shoulder the whole time. Total badass. Did she get eaten?
I don't know, but the blonde girl in AVP Requiem was cut in half by a gigantic shuriken that someone could easily have used as an anchor.
edit: could have easily used? Easily could have used? Might have used with great ease?
(This post was edited by uhoh on Jan 11, 2009, 2:01 AM)
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angry
Jan 11, 2009, 2:03 AM
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I just watched "Wrong Turn" and the wimpy girl who whined alot got partially decapitated by an inbred cannibal. There was a climbing scene at the beginning of it that didn't make any damn sense. Check this out.
http://www.hulu.com/watch/50976/wrong-turn
You only need to watch the first couple of seconds
I don't know, but the blonde girl in AVP Requiem was cut in half by a gigantic shuriken that someone could easily have used as an anchor.
(This post was edited by angry on Jan 11, 2009, 2:04 AM)
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clc
Jan 11, 2009, 2:10 AM
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get another climber to show you.
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Sin
Jan 11, 2009, 3:59 AM
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xArtx wrote: Hi Guys, First post here! :) Just a simple question really, since I'm beginning to lead some sports climbs outdoors, and looking to place some extra protection of my own to make up for lack of bolts on some climbs. Just wondering if cams are supposed to be placed with the wire facing downward rather than sideways? I've only ever seen them used in the move "The Decent" where they were placed in the roof of a cave, so obviously facing downward. It seems they would be damaged in a fall if placed horizontal. Cheers, Art.
Hehe Hollywood is a great source for instructional material on climbing. On a serious note, It would be a lot better for you to learn from an experienced climber or better yet a guide.
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taydude
Jan 11, 2009, 4:45 AM
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HAHAHA that movie is great! She's roped soloing with a tied of figure 8?
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andrewG
Jan 11, 2009, 5:20 AM
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WTF, do you work for hulu. Tease us with a sweet scene and then try to get us to register.
Liked the other link though. Now I'm scarred for life. Every time I'm about to top out or climb a roof I'll be uber scared. And I'm going to have to buy ice axes just in case. Maybe a #7 tricam would do the trick?
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krosbakken
Jan 11, 2009, 5:27 AM
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didn't see much ice, soooo why the fuck did they have ice axes?? 
But I haven't seen the movie so maybe there was a point to them.
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abe_ascends
Jan 11, 2009, 7:57 AM
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xArtx wrote: Hi Guys, First post here! :) Just a simple question really, since I'm beginning to lead some sports climbs outdoors, and looking to place some extra protection of my own to make up for lack of bolts on some climbs. Just wondering if cams are supposed to be placed with the wire facing downward rather than sideways? I've only ever seen them used in the move "The Decent" where they were placed in the roof of a cave, so obviously facing downward. It seems they would be damaged in a fall if placed horizontal. Cheers, Art.
If you don't know, you shouldn't be using them. Get a skilled climber to show you.
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xArtx
Jan 11, 2009, 8:04 AM
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Obviously I can have a climber show me when I'm out,
but It's something I've only just started wondering.
It's not like it would kill me to use them leading a climb that is already bolted
in the manner I said (even if I didn't know how)
I can still only fall to the last quickdraw.
What I find at the cliffs I frequent is the very first bolt is often too
high for my liking.
(This post was edited by xArtx on Jan 11, 2009, 8:06 AM)
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angry
Jan 11, 2009, 8:14 AM
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This will be my only response to this thread that is not in reference to mutant cave zombies or inbred redneck cannibals.
Buy yourself a few cams and a set of nuts and just go crazy on the ground. Practice placing them in cracks, in horizontals, in pods. Yank the shit out of them from all directions. See what holds and importantly, see what fails.
Read the goofy little booklet that comes with the protection.
If you've got any experienced friends, ask them for pointers but they probably will tell you to do just what I said. Maybe ask for them to critique the placements.
Funny thing is, you're not going to trust your placements for a long long time. They do work but it's not easy to put much faith in them. The more you practice placing gear, the better it'll be, and the greater the chance of it doing it's job when you do fall on it. And you will fall on it eventually.
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angry
Jan 11, 2009, 8:16 AM
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Or rereading your post, you could just get a stick clip. Get one that can double as a spear or a bo staff just in case you encounter mutant bears on the approach.
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xArtx
Jan 11, 2009, 8:33 AM
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Don't worry, we're also climbing indoors in my hometown where is it highly likely
that mutant Humans are encountered.
BTW a clip stick is called a "fag stick" in my neck of the woods so I'd rather learn to use some extra protection.
At least that could be put down to practicing!
(This post was edited by xArtx on Jan 11, 2009, 8:35 AM)
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foreverabumbly
Jan 11, 2009, 10:09 AM
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everyone has said it all pretty much, but a little bit scattered, so
Cams need to be placed in the direction of pull, they dont like horizontal placements - but flexible stemms can take it a whole heap better than rigid stems. cams 'walk' very easily so practice placements, then practice some more, then get someone to critic them. while your practicing, weight the cam to see how it works, aid an easy crack to see how effective they are.
it will take a long time to trust your placements - so for a while it will be as scary as the runout.
Finally, buy some nuts to go with your cams, learn to lead trad and become a more rounded climber.
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shockabuku
Jan 11, 2009, 10:35 AM
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xArtx wrote: BTW a clip stick is called a "fag stick" in my neck of the woods so I'd rather learn to use some extra protection. At least that could be put down to practicing!
Just out of curiosity, is your neck of the woods red?
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