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zealotnoob
Jan 27, 2009, 10:27 PM
Post #26 of 33
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
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I first bought the Moccasyms downsized half a size. They felt great at first but quickly became ridiculously loose. If fact, I even used them as approach shoes once... Downsized a full size they're perfect after the first four days or so of climbing. I may go down another half size in the future for a more performance fit.
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getout87
Jan 27, 2009, 10:30 PM
Post #27 of 33
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Registered: Dec 30, 2007
Posts: 597
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I might try some mad rocks. They are pretty comfortable, I had them as a first shoe. They stretched quite a bit (from comfortably tight to wiggle room loose) in about 2 or 3 weeks. also, from what vegastradguy reported, the rubber is supposed to be sick-nasty this year.
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caliclimbergrl
Jan 27, 2009, 10:44 PM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: Feb 19, 2008
Posts: 354
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I think that only applies to sport climbing though right? I know a lot of people who use them for crack shoes and the like them nice and comfy. And though he won't be climbing cracks all that much, he also won't need a really tight technical shoe since he's a beginner and not all that crazy about climbing (relatively speaking). I'm thinking if we go the Moccasym route, either 1/2 size smaller than street shoes or the same size would be best. I think these shoes would actually be a really good first pair of shoes for him, but I'm leaning toward the Defys only because it's hard to say exactly how much they'll stretch and people seem to be saying different things about just how much they stretch. The Defys will fit the way they're going to fit right out of the box (and I'm sure we can figure out how to combat the stinkiness factor if it becomes an issue. (I appreciate the warning and the newspaper and dryer sheet advice). We'll see what happens when we try them all on though.
This thread was more to get suggestions on which shoes to try on, which ones to avoid, and how much specific shoes would stretch. And I'm pleasantly surprised with all the great advice I've gotten from everyone!! :)
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zealotnoob
Jan 27, 2009, 10:52 PM
Post #29 of 33
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
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My comments were from a trad climbing perspective. Downsizing a full size felt too tight at first, but changed drastically after a few sessions. Now they're my super comfy shoe that goes on whenever I don't need to edge on dimes.
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caliclimbergrl
Jan 27, 2009, 10:56 PM
Post #30 of 33
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Registered: Feb 19, 2008
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Okay thanks! I'll keep that in mind! I tried moccs once, but I have really narrow feet so no matter how small I got them, my feet still slid around in them from side to side. I think they'd fit my boyfriend's feet really well though and I have a lot of trad partners that swear by them. And come to think of it, I think most of them downsize a whole size. I'm just cautions because everyone said my mythos would stretch out so much so quickly and they only stretched about 1/2 a size and it took 6 months! I don't want to tell him the moccs will stretch and get comfy and then not have it happen, you know?
Anyway, thanks for the advice!
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d0nk3yk0n9
Jan 27, 2009, 10:58 PM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: Jan 22, 2009
Posts: 182
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My comments were mainly from a bouldering perspective, although they should apply to shorter sport routes that don't involve much crack climbing. As for longer routes or multipitch stuff, I haven't done much of that, but they should be okay as long as your feet stay comfortable long enough.
I don't know too much about trad, so I make no guarantee of the reliability of my advice as applied to using the shoes for trad.
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paclimber12
Jan 28, 2009, 2:42 AM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: Dec 5, 2005
Posts: 123
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get spires
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Grizvok
Jan 29, 2009, 8:44 PM
Post #33 of 33
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Registered: Dec 1, 2008
Posts: 153
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I would go with the Defy's.
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