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chillyweather
Mar 8, 2009, 1:06 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2002
Posts: 7
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Anyone know what's being used for anchors now on these two climbs? The old guide says 'tree with slings' but I think the tree is long gone.
Also, any beta on where Natural Lite starts on Moon Rock?
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jlbmarine
Apr 1, 2009, 1:43 AM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2007
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Lots of downed trees in the are, looks like a tornado and fire destroyed quite a bit in the general area. Bring draws, runners and some extra webbing, Maybe a few pitons, hexs and nuts. We brought everything and needed almost all of it or at least made use of it.
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jamatt
Apr 2, 2009, 12:38 AM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2005
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When I climbed there in December, the anchors were double rodent-eaten 7mm cord with double biners around a rock on the top.
I replaced it with new 7mm cord, with existing biners. As is, (minus rodents) it's a decent rappel anchor. To TR the routes, or bring up a second, you'd need to extend it six or seven feet IIRC to avoid the rope getting got by the sharp edge of the cliff.
Careful though, at first glance the anchors seemed good. The eaten part was on the underside of the rock.
That also serves as the anchor for Great Balls of Fire which is a great 5.7 trad climb.
(This post was edited by jamatt on Apr 2, 2009, 12:55 AM)
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dborrero
Sep 7, 2010, 9:43 PM
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Registered: Sep 7, 2010
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I was just there on Sunday (9/5/2010). The tree is definitely gone. There is a rotten out stump where I suppose it once stood. Definitely not something you want to rappel/belay off of.
I used a few Metolius cams to build a belay station (#6, #3, and #2, I believe).
There is a rappel station a little off to the right with some green webbing tied around a rock. The webbing that was there was all rotted out. I ended up leaving a couple of slings because I didn't have anything else on me.
Make sure to bring a long piece of webbing because there is a lot of rope drag. I couldn't get my rope down on the first try and had to prussic up the stupid thing to free it up.
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