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thrmaln
Apr 15, 2009, 3:49 PM
Post #1 of 4
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Registered: Mar 4, 2005
Posts: 160
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Hello,
I will be in Sedona Arizona for some canyoneering and figured I'd check out Queen Creek as well since I would be in the Phoenix Area. Anyhow I am looking to climb some easy stuff in the 5.6 to 5.8 since my girlfriend is a new climber. Can anyone recomend some good beginerish routes? Also I weigh a good deal more then her and need to anchor her to the ground when I climb. I will will have a bunch of slings I can use to anchor her to trees or boulders, but I am unsure what the place looks like around the bases of the climbs. Any beta on if I have to bring a few cams for ground anchoring? I am flying on a plane so space is premiumm otherwise I'd have my entire rack with me. I plan to climb QC on 04/20 if anyone cares to join us or show us around.
Take care,
Marc
661-312-3596
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derekclimbs
Apr 16, 2009, 4:14 AM
Post #2 of 4
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 11
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hey marc,
my partner and i went there last december, and we thought the place sucked. there are a few climbs that
are decent, but not well bolted and poorly rated. we felt that some of the climbs had been rap bolted, rated, but never climbed. it is pocketed volcanic rock. anchoring your girlfriend at the base might be difficult or impossible, even if you do get her anchored, my advice is don't fall. the rock is very sharp. i don't want to discourage you, but just want
to be honest with you. derek
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lvpyne
Apr 16, 2009, 4:38 AM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 207
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For Queen Creek, you might try The Pond area. It has a good mix of easy to moderate routes and Marty's fold out map (sold at local REI & climbing stores) makes finding the easier routes pretty straightforward. You might also try The Mine area (Snorkeling in the Rhyolite, 5.6 is a really fun easy route and Ride The Wild 5.9 is great fun). A third option is Upper Devil's Canyon, near the Pancake House area. There are a bunch of 5.6-5.10 routes there. All of the areas are easy and straightforward to get to in terms of an approach and don't require a high-clearance vehicle.
The rock at Queen Creek is a bit funky -- the rhyolite does take a bit of getting used to and can be sharp. Some of the routes (especially at The Pond) feel like you're climbing a giant dimpled golf ball. As for anchoring, don't bother with cams -- there are some boulders that you could sling and some little scrubby bushes. Anchoring will just be difficult to do at most places in Queen Creek.
Have a great trip!
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thrmaln
Apr 16, 2009, 6:27 AM
Post #4 of 4
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Registered: Mar 4, 2005
Posts: 160
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Hey Guys,
Thanks for the great info. As for pocketed rhyolite it sounds like my local crag Malibu Creek so I am fine with sharp pockets. Dont care for them too much since I tend to slash shoes sometimes in sharp pockets, but I'll stick to the easy stuff anyhow. If either of you find yourself in SoCal drop me a line and I'll take you to some local crags out this way.
Thanks again,
Marc
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