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arsenalcrater
Nov 21, 2002, 6:13 AM
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I'm looking for some input on what other people have done to rehap blown tendons/tissue in their hands. I have severly pulled my tendons in my right pinky and ring finger. I think it might be worse then it normally should because my knuckle has been dislocated to the middle of my hand for years, therefor I don't think I have ever healed properly. I've asked my doc about it a few times and he gives me the, "If you want it fixed, go see a specialist!" I've pulled these tendons before and they have healed on their own over time. I guess I'm looking for responses on similar cases of trauma on tendons and recovery from others. The "specialist" wants to cut my hand open. I'm thinking it should heal over "time" like it has before. Anyone out there have any rehab stories about repeat trauma? I would feed off of it. Please reply. Thank you all in advance, Arsenal
And sorry for the "triple post". I only entered this once. I don't know what is going on here.
[ This Message was edited by: arsenalcrater on 2002-11-20 22:22 ]
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tigerbythetail
Nov 21, 2002, 7:27 AM
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Don't know if this will help, but over the years I've been fuc*ked up. Had tendonitis in my elbows, wrists, fingers and shoulders.
The best thing was to rest and do no climbing for a month to three months then start out real slow and easy. Don't climb anything remotely challenging - you'll be psyched to even climb...plus you'll get to work on balance and footwork which are key. My last episode was in 95' so it's been a while, but I believe I've become not only stronger but smarter...think about it. Good luck and don't get cut unless you have to.
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overlord
Nov 21, 2002, 7:37 AM
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yes, plenty of rest for you. dont even thing oabout climbing for at least a month and as long as it hurts. maybe you can work some technique on big buckets, but not for a month. tendons take time to heal, but you can wait, because you cant climb anyway. and when you begin climbing again dont forget to warm up/strech before and cool down/stretch after climbing. it really makes the difference. and go easy on the fingers for up to six months.
and, yes, i know how is it to hear this. i had a blown tendon and was depressed for a week. blown tendons suck BIG TIME.
CLIMB ON
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funktimonious
Nov 21, 2002, 8:30 AM
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Christ, I hope this doesn't happen to me when I'm your guys' age.
[ This Message was edited by: funktimonious on 2002-11-21 00:30 ]
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robbovius
Nov 21, 2002, 1:41 PM
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I injured hte tendons in my left hand badly last summer - not from climbing, from trying to rope-start the new race engine in my kart - and becuase I didn't immediately lay off the thinng and let it heal, it screwed my hand up badly enough that I had to have carpal tunnel surgery to release the pressure on the nerves in my wrist (the feeling in my fingers is finally starting to come back now)...I've only begun climbing again within the last month...
the tendons that control your fingers extend all the way down thru the carpal tunnel at the base of the wrist and into the forearm, so everytime you traumatize them they swell and you put yourself at risk for damaging the median nerve and winding up in the same boat I did...
lay off and give the tendons time to heal!
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cerikpete
Nov 22, 2002, 9:26 PM
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I broke my toe a year and a half ago. I didn't do anything about it (taped it for like a day) and now I can hardly bend it.
While surgery is indeed extreme, my advice would be to keep the tendon as immobile as possible for a while, then, as the others have mentioned, just relax and don't push it, otherwise you could have permanent damage.
- Erik
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climbjs
Nov 22, 2002, 9:44 PM
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Unfortunately, the best thing to do is to take time off. Tendons do not have a "healthy" blood supply, consequently they heal very slowly. My suggestions:
make stretching a daily activity, working abduction and adduction.
Ibuprofin will help alleviate some swelling.
Ice the injury.
When you begin climbing again, try not to over-grip holds and start open-handing everything.
Good luck!
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redpoint73
Nov 23, 2002, 9:43 PM
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Sounds like a blown (strained) "ring" or "pulley" tendon. Its common when you start pulling down on really hard moves, pulling really hard on the ligaments in your fingers and your tendons aren't strong enough to compensate. Ice immediataly after the injury to prevent swelling is essential. Icing 2-3 times a day for 15-30 minutes will speed healing. The temperature decrease/subsequent increase helps to remove scar tissue and increases the flow of fresh blood to the injured area. Don't ice for more than 45 minutes, MAX. You can give yourself frostbite. Stay away from chemical cold packs for the same reason. They stay much colder than normal ice. Ibuprofen also the effect of reducing inflammation. DO NOT use Ibupro before starting any kind of workout. It masks pain, increasing your chances of injuring yourself more. Feel free to use it after a workout if you are hurting. Time off from climbing is virtually required. Anywhere from 1 to 3 months is normal, depending on the severity of the strain. If it is a bad strain, 6 months to even a year before full strength is recovered is not unheard of.
Surgery should be considered a FINAL option, and only for very severe strains. Surgery often does more damage than good, so I think your specialist is a quack. Try finding a physical therapist or orthopoedist that is familiar with climbing, or at least athletes. The injury should heal over time, and you will reobtain your former strength, and even surpass it, given the proper healing time and rehab. Cortisone injections are sometimes used, but should also be considered the last option (before surgery). Cortisone reduces inflammation and speeds healing. But I know a climber who has a permanent lump in his hand where they injected him.
Return to climbing slowly. Don't try hard moves, and use tape on the finger. Tape a "ring" around the injured area, between the knuckles. This mimics and reinforces/protects the injured tendon. You should probably also tape the surrounding fingers. I blew a tendons on an adjacent finger while rehabing a blown pulley, because you tend to "favor" the injured finger. Avoid crimpy holds for a while, they are the WORST for tendon injuries. Stick to buckets, open-handed grips and pinches.
Hope your rehab goes well! Listen to your body, rehab smart, and you will be climbing stronger than ever before you know it!
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redpoint73
Nov 23, 2002, 9:50 PM
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funktimonious, you're a real zoink.
Pulley tendon strains have little/nothing to do with age. It has more to do with genetics (how naturally strong your tendown are), and training habits than anyting else. I know a climber that was blowing tendons when he was around 19. I also know a guy who cranks 5.12, is in his 40's, and has never had a serious pulley strain.I think I injured my first pulley around age 24.
If you never get a pulley injury in your lifetime, than I am happy for you. But it also probably means you aren't cranking hard enough!!!! All hard climbers get hurt at some time or other.
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earsen
Nov 24, 2002, 4:32 PM
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Everyone is talking about how to recovery mild tendon pulls. Sorry, but I think you've already overdone it. The thing about the knuckle being dislocated permanently doesn't sound like rest is going to a damn thing. Listen to you Doc, get the knife, put s--- back together the way it is supposed to be. THEN - rest it, climb light, gradually increase the grades, etc. I've have some finger pulls and delt with some tendonitis in the elbows. Suppliments, ample rest, and gradually grade increase work for me, but what you've have sounds beyond all that. Sorry man, just my opinion. I wish you the best.
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marks
Nov 24, 2002, 4:37 PM
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6 months ago i pulled a tendon it hurt all down my forearm it took 3 months to heal.1 month ago i pulled a pully in my left hand it hurts to crimp, opposite to a tendon injury which hurts open handed.i tape up my finger and its o.k,i did a 5.13c on toprope today so it cannot be that bad.
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stickit
Nov 24, 2002, 11:09 PM
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I know that I've screwed my hand up climbing, but I'm not sure if it's a "pulley tendon" or not. When the injury happened I was pulling super-hard with my right middle and 3rd finger. There was an audible snap and now my palm hurts. My fingers are fine but when I try any opposition between my 3rd finger and my thumb it hurts. This was about a month ago and it's finally starting to feel better.
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beyond_gravity
Nov 24, 2002, 11:27 PM
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How long would it take for a minor ingury to heal?
I screwed somthing up last weekend, but I could still climb on it for 3 hours after (jugs only)
I took this weekend off...would it be a good idea to climb next weekend?
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rivery
Nov 24, 2002, 11:52 PM
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Just yesterday I blew something in my third an ring finger in my right hand while pulling hard on this pocket.
Even my bouldering partner heard audible snaps. however it doesn't hurt as long as I don't do anything with those two fingers. I can't even palm down or do slabs, otherwise pain shots down my wrist.
Can anyone judge the severity of my injury? Would resting heal it?
weak fingers
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ajkclay
Nov 25, 2002, 12:50 PM
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Rivery, it don't sound like good news friend. That sounds like snapped tendons. Can you move your fingers? Have you lost any mobility. Dude you might not be climbing for a while. Go to the doc
earsen had the best advice for the original post. If it's benn dislocated, the tendons are likely to be damaged, and connective tissue doesn't heal too well. There's a good chance that it will pop again.
If there's a weakness, and your doc has said it needs surgery, guess what? It just might.
Good luck with it.
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ajkclay
Nov 25, 2002, 1:06 PM
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arsenalcrater, I just read your post again, and with regards to this:
"I've pulled these tendons before and they have healed on their own over time"
You may have mistaken no pain for healed. The fact that the problem is recurring indicates that the problem has not healed. Dude, it's not going to get better by itself. One of my good climbing friends (Boz) had a shoulder that kept dislocating when he climbed. I personally saw it come out six times before he decided to go under the knife. (Each time he would rotate his arm until it went back in, ice it, rest it, then try to strengthen the rotator cuff muscles before climbing again - six times).
After a while he decided to have it operated on, and to reduce recovery time (he couldn't get more time off work), the surgeon performed a technique that shrinks the rotator cuff, in the hope that this would suffice. He took six months off from climbing, then started to strengthen the shoulder methodically, gradually getting back into climbing in the gym. He got up to grade 21 Ewbank (5.11a) before we went outside two weeks ago. On his second climb, a 15 (5.7) out it popped. He was devastated, and so were we. He should have gone for the full reconstruction but didn't because of the extended recovery time. Now he can't climb at all because he can't afford more time off work for the operation.
What I'm tring to say is this: Don't do what Boz did, and hold out until you have no other option, because by then it may be too late.
PS I didn't quote you to be a smartarse, just to point out what I was referring to.
Seriously dude, take care of yourself
Adam
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indeco
Nov 25, 2002, 3:00 PM
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I took an entire season off so my hand could repair. Someone said stretch and they are correct, keep the hand gently mobile. Another thing since you now have no choice train differently. Back to stretching, use the next six months to stretch like maniac or maybe even learn yoga. When its safe to return to the cliff you might as well come back with at least one much improved skill. Flexibility.
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climbergirl15
Nov 25, 2002, 3:17 PM
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Okay, I have a torn ligament in my wrist from competing in Archery so intensely for so long. Ligaments don't heal, so I have already had a shot of cortazone and think I need another one, if they will give it to me, otherwise I have to have surgery and have a pin in my wrist. At 18 I am faced with this, surgery could make it worse and I have to quite climbing all together, and give up my dream of Olympics in 2008 for archery, or deal with the pain for the rest of my life. I have dealt with it for over two years, and have not gotten used to the pain. So go to the damn doctor and the specialist.
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earsen
Nov 25, 2002, 5:38 PM
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Cut the injured tendons out and replace them with metal, like Darth Vader.
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gumbobob
Nov 25, 2002, 6:24 PM
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the damage done to your climbing by a blown out tendon depends on how bad you hurt them and how old you are. Im young and when i pulled my two left hand tendons on WInd and Rattlesnakes, it didn't take over three weeks to heal. When i tore the ligaments in my ankle from a bad bouldering fall, it only took about six weeks when the doctor said it takes other people two months or more. But don't use your hurt tendons in the meantime, and when you first start using them, tape them to the stronger fingers around them, supporting them will keep them from being pulled again, which is much more likely now that they've been pulled already.
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