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marks
Nov 23, 2002, 5:24 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2002
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any of you that have climbed in the u.k will know of our trad grading system.it shows how serious or safe,sustained just about everything,do you think the y.d.s system should be changed more like ours to give you a better idea of the route.for example a 6c move(5.13a) could be very safe(e2 6c)or it could be very sustained or deadly (e9 6c)
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stevematthys
Nov 23, 2002, 7:58 PM
Post #2 of 19
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Registered: Sep 13, 2000
Posts: 1248
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i like the european ratings better, but the yds is just to popular here in the usa, it would be like trying to change dollars to pesos or something.
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cass
Nov 23, 2002, 8:05 PM
Post #3 of 19
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Registered: May 5, 2001
Posts: 1956
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lets the revolution begin
and it will be €uro
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beyond_gravity
Nov 23, 2002, 9:42 PM
Post #4 of 19
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Registered: Jan 2, 2002
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an e2 6c doesnt sound as impressive as 5.13
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monkeyarm
Nov 23, 2002, 9:48 PM
Post #5 of 19
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Registered: Oct 11, 2002
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The UK rating scale just confuses the s--- out of me and basically anyone i have asked to explain it to me. The french system is alright, although i don't see how it is that different than the YDS
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camhead
Nov 23, 2002, 10:58 PM
Post #6 of 19
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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More climbers in the U.S. should just get into the habit of combining YDS with V-ratings, since they are quite comfortable with both.
On describing a certain climb at maple canyon, I say it is, oh... sustained 5.11 with four moves of v4. This tells much more than its 'normal' rating of 5.12d.
Of course, even this does not mention the danger factor that marks bring up, but hell, what is R/X for???
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lox
Nov 24, 2002, 2:41 AM
Post #7 of 19
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Registered: Oct 2, 2002
Posts: 2307
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Ice Pond Scale.
v4+4lyfe.
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osho
Nov 24, 2002, 8:26 AM
Post #8 of 19
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Registered: May 16, 2002
Posts: 69
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Quote:an e2 6c doesnt sound as impressive as 5.13
does e9 6c sound more impressive??
or are you just being totally arbitrary?
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offwidthclimber
Nov 24, 2002, 8:33 AM
Post #9 of 19
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Registered: Jan 13, 2001
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we've got R/X and those designations work just fine, thank you.
some people futher break it down into PG, PG13 and then R and X...
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mrsmylie
Nov 24, 2002, 9:14 AM
Post #10 of 19
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Registered: Aug 1, 2002
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america is set with the yds system and it works for us. we could try and change it to compare with the more descriptive uk system, but it would only cause mass confusion. i say leave it as is. let everyone use there brains to convert it. peace ya'll.
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ajkclay
Nov 24, 2002, 12:33 PM
Post #11 of 19
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Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 1567
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I just love Ewbank. 1 through to ???, (currently 34) you know exactly what you're dealing with, and what to expect. Nice and simple, Mr Ewbank was a genius, (and a damn good climber too).
Still is a genius I guess... he's not dead yet.
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wv5ten
Nov 24, 2002, 2:08 PM
Post #12 of 19
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Registered: Nov 2, 2002
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I don't particularly like how it just rates the hardest move for the most part. There's a 5.11 here at Kaymoor that is all 5.6 or 5.7 except the crux is 5.11. If only it was rated "5.7 with a 5.11 crux" or something to that affect I'd love y.d.s.
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metoliusmunchkin
Nov 24, 2002, 5:38 PM
Post #13 of 19
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Registered: Apr 7, 2001
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I personally believe that an international rating system should be integrated into the climbing world. This would give climbers of different parts of the world a certain degree of knowledge toward foreign climbs.
When it comes to the YDS, I do not mind it, but I must say that it is one of the least effective rating systems. It is the one that I understand best, however I think that a simpler rating would suffice. The Australian ranking system is pretty cool - just one number and you're set to go.
I never really understood that e5 6c rating system, though I do think that it can give you the best idea of "just how tricky a route really is."
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coclimber26
Nov 24, 2002, 6:20 PM
Post #14 of 19
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
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Our system reflects routes the same...S=serious, R=runout, x=Bring some big balls...
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biff
Nov 24, 2002, 9:42 PM
Post #15 of 19
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Registered: Nov 5, 2001
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I like the australian system aswell .. what is up with using decimal system anyways. but I think that there should be a system like this
Avg gade of climb / crux grade / type of climb / protection quality
so a 22/24/ow/x would be a fairly stustained difficult ofwidth with bad protection. Sometimes you can't see everything from the bottom of a route, and the more information available at the start of a climb the better judgement you can make about your ability of climbing it.
It is like describing a person .. you usually don't just use one measurement. What do you look like? - I'm 182 cm tall. That simply doesn't give you any meaningful informaiton.
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ktwo
Nov 25, 2002, 5:21 PM
Post #16 of 19
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Registered: May 10, 2002
Posts: 443
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WE can't even change to the damn metric system, and you expect us to change our ratings? whoa, you must be nucking futz.
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bolder
Nov 25, 2002, 5:48 PM
Post #17 of 19
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Registered: Jun 28, 2002
Posts: 203
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I like the notion of getting rid of the a b c d's and just using + & - 's i.e. 5.11+ instead of 5.11c.
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stevo
Nov 25, 2002, 6:00 PM
Post #18 of 19
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 99
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The YDS has major shortcomings, and I believe it is fairly crap for trad rock compared to the British system. But I am not in favour of trying to change it. Where I am in favour of change is in the committment grade, the YDS system completely blows here. It works for short rock routes only, in the alpine it is useless. Adapting and modifying the french committment for canadian alpine is the way to go, kevin mclane has already started doing this, this is a safer and better system, letting you know what you really are getting into.
The YDS is great for sport.
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marks
Nov 25, 2002, 6:54 PM
Post #19 of 19
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Registered: Aug 3, 2002
Posts: 376
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i agree with you,its o.k for sport.we use the french grades for sport routes here.
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