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fitch
Nov 26, 2002, 4:00 AM
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I am heading to Redrocks this week, I was wondering what region/regions I should go to for sport climbs from 5.7 to 5.9 Is there an area that has alot of such climbs close together? I'll appreciate any opinions/suggestions. thanks, rob
[ This Message was edited by: fitch on 2002-11-25 21:20 ]
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jt512
Nov 26, 2002, 5:16 AM
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The Magic Bus and the Black Corridor.
-Jay
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fitch
Nov 26, 2002, 1:51 PM
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Thanks alot Jay, We'll hit those areas.
Another question for everybody:
The guide book i have for redrocks (the Falcon book) seems like it has a lot of info, is it pretty accurate? Is it complete enough to go climb someplace I've never been? Thank you, rob
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tradguy
Nov 26, 2002, 1:57 PM
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Yes. That was all I had when I went there for the first time a couple weeks ago, and it worked fine. Just remember that approach times may be longer than listed in the book.
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voltzwgn
Nov 26, 2002, 2:55 PM
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Supertopo also has a new guidebook for redrocks. Never been to redrocks, but if this guidebook is like the others they've put out it usually is more detail then you'll find in the falcon books. Only drawback is that they don't list all the routes just the one's they see as classics, but if you visit www.supertopo.com you should be able to see what routes they cover before you buy.
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quickclips
Nov 26, 2002, 3:16 PM
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Good topic, I'm planning on going there for spring break, anyone care to join me?
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bolder
Nov 26, 2002, 3:20 PM
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Also check out the Panty Wall at the first pull-out.
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climberchic
Nov 26, 2002, 3:58 PM
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There is a HUGE group of us going up to Red Rocks this week. If you want to meet up with us (more beta for climbs) PM climbingfoo before Wednesday. If you can't get a hold of him, PM me and and I'll let you know where, when, etc.
~Erica
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fitch
Nov 26, 2002, 6:25 PM
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Thanks alot everybody!
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vegastradguy
Nov 26, 2002, 6:32 PM
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I always feel so left out of the Red Rocks trips.
Such is life. Anyway, on Friday, I'll be @ Panty Wall, Magic Bus, & the Black Corridor for most of the day. We're planning on getting out there around 8am and staying until whenever.
Hope everyone has a great Thanksgiving and lots of fun @ Red Rocks this week!
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flamer
Nov 27, 2002, 12:17 AM
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Couple of tips for Red rocks. First of all I have found the(sport climbing) ratings to be a little soft in RR. So if you are a 5.9 leader you might want to try leading some well protected 5.10's. Also I have found that the approaches take less time than Mr. Swain states in his guide book. He has "answers" to anything that might be wrong with his book, in the front of it. Do you climb Trad? RR is pretty much a motherlode of long easy Trad routes! I could suggest some little done classic's if you would like!
Josh
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fitch
Nov 27, 2002, 3:00 PM
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Thanks for the help Josh, sound like great things to know. I'm not into trad yet, so I'll just be looking for sport climbs. appreciate the info, rob
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tradclmbr
Dec 1, 2002, 1:38 AM
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Josh,
Im headed to red rocks, hopefully in dec., and do mostly trad, I'd love some insider advice on moderates 5. 7 to .9 trad climbs that are off the beaten path.
thanks
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krillen
Dec 6, 2002, 8:16 PM
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What is there in the 5.10-5.12c range? Prefferably multi-pitch but not necessary.
What are considered ultra-classic-must-do-climbs there besides POD?
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flamer
Dec 6, 2002, 9:16 PM
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Ok! I'll try and help you both out...
My favorite 5.7 in Red Rocks is Group Therapy. It is located just up canyon from Tunnel Vision(another good one). It see's way less traffic than it's popular neighbor and I think it's better. Both are on the Angel food wall. Beulah's book is another classic, and goes at 5.9. If you climb fast you can link this with solar slab(5.6), You don't even have to be that fast. Another good one is Black magic on the Lotta balls wall. It goes at 5.8pg, and is quite good.This is a good option when Lotta balls is crowded! Hey! After you top out on Black Magic you should climb the route-"Kick in the Balls" it's above the lotta balls wall. Goes at 5.8, is a Perfect splitter, and makes the day a little more adventurous! Oh yeah did I mention I did the first ascent? I don't think It's seen a second? If you do it Let me know what you think.
Ok now for the harder classic's...
Cloud Tower is supposed to be the classic long, hard trad route in RR and goes at like 5.11+.Leavitation 29 is one to mention even though I thought it wasn't that great... If you are really dialed go do The rainbow wall free. Or try Brown Recluse on the "shoulder" of the Rainbow wall.
Hope this helps...I'll be in RR from the 12th-19th but I have a partner! I'll be back the second week in January partnerless if anyone is interested...or if you just want to drink beer...
Josh
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vegastradguy
Dec 6, 2002, 9:44 PM
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Don't forget these great routes, although they might be a little (okay, alot) chilly right now, because they are in the shade.
Crimson Chrysalis (9 pitch, 5.8+) on the Cloud Tower. Exposed, beautiful, and you get to rappel off it. Woo! This is so far my fav multipitch, although I have to do many more!!!
Epinephrine (18 pitch, 5.9) in Black Velvet Canyon. If you're beefy and really good at chimney work, I hear you can do it in a day in 12 pitches or so, plus 300 (?) feet of 4th class to the top. Bring your head lamps, though, because the descent is long.
Froglands (6 pitches, 5.8 ) in Black Velvet Canyon, another excellent climb! This was my first multipitch, and I loved it. Nicely exposed crux, with an excellent summit, with Epinephrine towering high behind you, and Vegas out in front!
I've also heard good things about Ginger Cracks (5.9), Olive Oil (5.8 ), and if youre really beefy go play on Resolution Arete (17 pitches @ 5.11+ or 5.10 A1 + 2 pitches of 5.2 at the top).
Of course any of the above routes are excellent as well. I just did Tunnelvision (there is now a bolted belay @ the top of Pitch 2) which is great, and Group Therapy is on the list, I hear its excellent.
Have fun!
J
[ This Message was edited by: vegastradguy on 2003-01-15 09:52 ]
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krillen
Dec 8, 2002, 11:45 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. Keep 'em coming.
I assume 5. is 5.8?
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flamer
Dec 9, 2002, 3:40 AM
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Hey! Couple of notes. The routes Mr. Tradguy mentioned truly are classic's! And along that line all(except Resolution arete) are very crowded! Also the word on Epinephrine is it goes in 8 pitchs with a 60M rope and a Possibly a little simul. I should be doing it next week- lots of climbs on the list though! Another one to consider is Sergant Slaughter on the rainbow wall. Goes free @ 5.12 and you probably won't be seeing to many other folks up there!
josh
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danyelle
Dec 9, 2002, 4:29 AM
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Ok, here's the deal...if you have never been there...don't believe everything you hear on this site.
Some good beta, some misleading.
I am a climber along your level who spent a week there in Oct for the first time. With the aide of the Swain book (good book), a good friend and very seasoned climber, and lastly a professional guide...I leave you the following advice. Take it or leave it but I think your first trip will be more memorable having known it.
1st (trad) Group Therapy....will leave you seeking some...don't do it...crappy route in comparison to many other better routes there. The approach is long, and the rapp is a walk down that sucks if you succeed in getting to the summit. No anchors on entire route.
2nd (trad) Tunnel Vison...not very easy route to follow for a first ascent. But duable and the same long approach as Group Therapy
3rd (trad) Dark Shadows...5.7/5.8 Mescalito Tower route 4 pitches, must do!!! Sometimes busy, can be crowded but not to be missed. Approach is great and mix shade/sun.
4th (sport) Panty Wall and Magic Bus, must do. Stay on the ramp to approach the bus, can be dangerous approach if not done correctly...tempting to just make v-line for wall...no...no...
5th The Black Corridor, good 5.9-5.11 range sport...all good
6th (trad) Cat in the Hat 5.6, classic multi-pitch, desired to do, but alas not good in the sun in Oct...should be perfect this time of year
Lastly if you desire or need further help, I highly recommend talking to Mark Limage or Bob at Jackson Hole Moutain Guides. They can provide excellent beta and have climbed all these routes countless times. There are also Climbing Rangers avail from park service that can be a good resource as well.
Have a great time, Love this place, amd Dying to go back and if anyone reads this post who can put me up for spring break or partner me, please let me know.
Danyelle
P.S. Erica I'm going to miss you!!!!
[ This Message was edited by: danyelle on 2002-12-08 20:30 ]
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danyelle
Dec 9, 2002, 4:59 AM
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Last but not least, here is an excellent site I just found with up close and personal photos of many of the routes mentioned on this post and one note I didn't know that I included @ Ginger Crack. Rusty bolt, tricky downclimb...hmmm...maybe you would want to rethink taht one.
They also post a photo and detail description of Dark Shadows, check it out.
http://www.gdargaud.net/Climbing/Nevada.html
And as a last route, we went back to the area of Crimson Chrysalis to do Ginger Crack, a true trad crack with a scary layback off a huge flake on the first pitch, plenty of gear stuck in the cracks, missing belays and just the one old rusty bolt to protect the 5.9 crux. But just another stellar route nonetheless; too bad there aren't any anchors on the top of the summit pillar (it's tricky to downclimb the friction moves).
Danyelle
[ This Message was edited by: danyelle on 2002-12-08 21:01 ]
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flamer
Dec 10, 2002, 12:16 AM
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Whoa! Hang on did she just say the approach to Group Therapy and Tunnel Vision is long??? Holy shit! that couldn't be any more off base!! On the contarary The approach is very short! MAYBE 20 minutes if you are in shape and know where you are going! The approach is considerably LESS then the one to Crimson.. Group Therapy is a STELLAR route and well rated at 5.7. True there are no fixed anchors- and there should not be! This is a TRAD route! Yes the descent involves a less then desirable gully- I did it 3 times one day! But this is TRAD climbing! Wow who was this Guide? Sounds like you need your money back!
Josh
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vegastradguy
Dec 10, 2002, 12:43 AM
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lol, krillen- yeah, that's a 5.8 i guess it didnt like my parentheses.
Group Therapy = 20 minute approach, among the SHORTEST approaches in Red Rocks for trad. LOL. Approaches suck @ Red Rocks, but you get your cardio in on the way in.
Crimson took us almost 2 hours to approach (kept losing the damn trail!) and 1 1/2 hours to leave. It's a long one with a NASTY end, especially with a heavy pack on your back.
And yeah, alot of those routes are crowded during the warm months, but if you're brave, they should be people free these days, it's chilly on many of them.
Epi in 8, eh? Wow, I assume thats 8 FULL 60m pitches...wow, let me know if that works out, and I may get that beta from you so when we head out next fall to do it, we can do it that way. That'll sure save some time.
ps- I would also recommend Dark Shadows & Cat in the Hat. You may also try Johnny Vegas over by Solar Slab.
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