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camhead
May 20, 2009, 7:08 PM
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OK, here's the deal. I have a coupon for a free pair of Evolvs. I am leaning towards the Pontas or Optimus; but may also consider something that is a better high performance all-arounder and/or thin crack specialist. However, there is no store that carries them anywhere near me, and I have no idea how they size.
SO, is there anyone here who wears street shoe 10, 5ten Anasazi 9, or Sportiva 40, and has some experience sizing Evolvs?
Post up your preferences!
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granite_grrl
May 20, 2009, 7:10 PM
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Miguel's doesn't carry those shoes? I know he carries Evolvs...or are you not heading down there any time soon?
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camhead
May 20, 2009, 7:13 PM
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Miguel's does not have a huge selection of evolvs. And every time I am down there, the pace is packed. I will stop at Waterstone next time I'm at the New, but the coupon expires the end of June and I am just trying to gather as much info as possible.
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dlintz
May 20, 2009, 7:32 PM
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My street shoe size is 10, I don't own a pair of Anasazis Velcros but if I did 9.5 would be perfect (snug but not uncomfortable). With that my size 10.5 Ponta Laceups are perfect (very snug but definitely tolerable).
d.
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escalabrasil
May 20, 2009, 7:39 PM
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Not a perfect match, but fairly close:
I wear street shoes 9.5 and LaSportiva 39. My Evolv Pontas are size 9 and they fit comfortably. I own a pair of Predators 8.5 as well and they fit really tight.
My experience has been that a 1/2 size down from street shoe size fits comfortably (Evolv says you should order your actual street shoe size, I think). However, your experience may be different given your specific foot shape and shoe fit preference.
Hope that helps some.
(This post was edited by escalabrasil on May 20, 2009, 7:41 PM)
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camhead
May 20, 2009, 7:46 PM
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wow, sounds like evolvs are sized a little larger than 5ten, definitely.
Keep the data coming!
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Carnage
May 20, 2009, 7:53 PM
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my 5.10 gallieo size twelve was a bit on the big side. my new size 11.5 pontas fit me perfectly
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crazy_fingers84
May 20, 2009, 7:53 PM
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my experience with evolv is that their sizing is not consistent. i have owned 4 different models and had 3 different shoe sizes.
my street shoe is a 10.5
talon = 10.5
defy = 10
rave = 9.5
kaos = 9.5
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angry
May 20, 2009, 8:04 PM
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For hard cracks, my old favorite was the Evolve Quest. They changed the shoe and made it the Quest AF. It's stiffer and fits better. It's a better shoe and edges very well also. The AF has two drawbacks. 1. In the desert, the stiffener inside it will cause it to wear out extremely (10 hard days usually) fast and it doesn't work great on .75's, you need something softer. You may recall that when I sent Cyborg I was wearing a pair of AF's that I'd taken out of the box that day.
If your crack climbing consisted of Yosemite, Vedauwoo, The Diamond, or anywhere but the Creek, they'd last a year.
Currently I've changed my crack game up substantially. I'm using pair of Defy's for all crack sizes but offwidth, The amazing thing with these shoes is that they are extremely versatile. I sent WTOK in them, numerous 12's and 12+ at the creek, and sport routes as hard as 12+ as well. They're nice and soft. For cracks, you need to shoe goo the upper. Also, they're dark gray, almost black. Hot+synthetic=stinky.
There is a new and awesome solution, 2 actually. The brand new Defy ES is the same shoe but it's light lime green. It's got a little more secure heel and is softer. After playing in these shoes for a week now, I'm convinced that splitters are going to fall down at my feet when they see me coming, they probably won't face climb quite as hard but I wouldn't count them out. Of course you need to shoe goo the upper too.
The other solution is the custom color option now available. You can get the Defy in white if you want it.
For hard crack climbing outside of the creek, you'll need to edge. If you think that you'll never have to put your feet into the crack, use the Pontas Lace. I've never had a shoe that edges as well. If you might be half in, half out, use the Optimus (or Optimus Prime) and excellent accurate shoe that's soft enough that you can get away with the occasional foot jam. I sent Skin Bus To Tuna Town in these, 12c thin face to 11+ crack. They were also been the shoes I onsighted Ariana in on the Diamond.
Sizing. Almost everything I wear from them is 8 with the quests in 8.5. My street shoes range between 8.5 and 9. My La Sportiva Mega's (the only sportiva's I have) are 39.5.
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petsfed
May 20, 2009, 8:09 PM
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I typically wear a 9.5 street shoe, 41 in La Sportiva Muiras and Katanas, and I usually go with a 9.5 or 10, but those are the Evolv Demortos, which also happen to be their gym rental shoes. Also, my Moccs are 9.5, and they're (fully broken in) a little bit floppy.
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brawa
May 20, 2009, 8:15 PM
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I typically wear a 9.5 (sometimes 9) street shoe.
I have a pair of Defy's in size 9. Not loose but definitely not tight. Use them for long days/multipitch.
I have had 2 pairs of Evo's in 8.5. (The first I just returned to REI b/c the toe split in 2 mos). The first pair was nice and tight, uncomfortable after about an hour. The second pair, which I've only climbed in once, I would say is "snug" but not as small as the first pair.
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seatbeltpants
May 20, 2009, 8:43 PM
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crazy_fingers84 wrote: my experience with evolv is that their sizing is not consistent.
in my very limited experience with evolv shoes (having only done a little in-store bouldering in defys and optimus primes) i completely back this statement. the sizing on these shoes seemed miles apart to me, with the ops a size or or tighter than the defys. it was truly weird. though note that this was a short session of just trying them on without any wearing in.
steve
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TJGoSurf
May 20, 2009, 8:58 PM
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I wear some evolv defy's here are the sizes for my shoes:
Street: 10.5
5.10: 10
La Sportiva 8.5(they are tighter than a virgin on prom night)
Evolv: 10.5
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cavemanNdisguise
May 20, 2009, 9:07 PM
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I wear anywhere from a size 9 to 11 street shoe. My feet measure about 275mm. The LS Mythos fit quite well and were sized at 42. I can't fit into Five Ten as they are too wide. As far as Evolv I have both the Pontas and Optimus Prime. My Pontas are size 10 and fit very tight. I consider them my high performance boulder shoe as there is absolutely no slippage on the heel when I heel hook. I like this and wouldn't go a size. As far the Optimus Prime, they are at a size 11 and fit similarly to the Pontas. I have mortons toe, so the Optimus Prime with its symmetrical toebox was a great decision and these are by far my favorite shoe. Whether or not you have mortons toe is something to consider. So, in short, the Optimus is sized smaller than other Evolv shoes, but I wear a larger size in Evolv than LS.
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azstephen
May 21, 2009, 7:14 AM
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I wear a 12.5 running shoe and have the Defy's in size 11. They fit great. Like a glove but defo not painful. Perfect fit. A friend of mine has hers sized 1 1/2 sizes down also from her running shoe.
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USnavy
May 21, 2009, 7:21 AM
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My street shoe is 10.5:
Defy: 10.5
Evo: 10.5 (a bit too tight)
Quest AF: 11
I find the 10.5 Defy fits my feet perfectly and I send my projects using the Defy. I am not one to buy an uncomfortablely small shoe. All my shoes are sized for comfort but accordingly they still perform extremely well.
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verticon
May 21, 2009, 7:21 AM
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10 - 5.10 Anasazi (not so tight, comfortable enough for all-round)
9.5 - Evolv Pontas (quite tight)
41.5 LS Miura VS (tight but bearable, no pressure points - still not broken in though)
(This post was edited by verticon on May 21, 2009, 7:24 AM)
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brownie710
May 21, 2009, 10:24 AM
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evolv is one of those companies I have found to have a "gap" in sizes. Most companies i have worn I can find a shoe that fits but evolve seems to have a gap, at least for me, where they are either too tight or usless for heel hooks.
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joshuasmall
May 21, 2009, 2:39 PM
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I wear:
9.5 street
9 Evolv Defy
The Evolv's fit tight, but are not crushing.
So, I recommend size 9.5 for you.
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camhead
May 21, 2009, 2:43 PM
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cool, thanks for all the comments! I am probably leaning toward the Quest AF's. I already have several aggressively downturned shoes that I use, but could use a good all around vertical edging and moderate rack shoe.
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myusername
May 21, 2009, 3:19 PM
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I didn't read all the replies so sorry if this is a repeat. But call or email Evolv. Tell them what you wear in whatever shoe and what shoe you want, how you like it to fit and they will hook you up. They've done if for me and it's been 100% bang-on every time. Their sizing is consistent within a line but if you switch to a different line of their shoes the sizing is different but they can tell you what you are looking for
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camhead
May 21, 2009, 3:37 PM
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angry wrote: camhead wrote: cool, thanks for all the comments! I am probably leaning toward the Quest AF's. I already have several aggressively downturned shoes that I use, but could use a good all around vertical edging and moderate rack shoe. Buy them under the promise that they're an excellent (maybe perfect) Astroman shoe, your Mocs are better for the creek.
true; I don't plan on replacing my moccs as Creek shoes anytime soon. The Quest AFs look like something similar to the Anasazi laceups, a niche that I have not yet filled in my arsenal.
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brownie710
May 22, 2009, 12:37 AM
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joshuasmall wrote: I wear: 9.5 street 9 Evolv Defy The Evolv's fit tight, but are not crushing. So, I recommend size 9.5 for you.
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acorneau
May 22, 2009, 12:48 AM
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joshuasmall wrote: I wear: 9.5 street 9 Evolv Defy
I just tried on some Defy's and Evo's the other day. Street shoe is 9 (or a wide 8.5).
Defy's felt nice and snug at 8.5's, Evo's felt exactly just as tight in a 9.
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