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agdavis
May 27, 2009, 5:58 PM
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does anyone know of a video(s) online that show zippering, either in an actual climb or simulated? doesn't seem to be any on rc.com...
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spikeddem
May 27, 2009, 6:08 PM
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It looks like a piece of dave's pro zippers in the E11 trailer, here.
It's at 0:55 and his top piece just so happens to break (the gear, not the placement  ).
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healyje
May 27, 2009, 6:10 PM
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I don't think it's a video, but rather a sequence of stills of a fall on 'Ruby's Cafe' in Indian Creek - should be around somewhere here...
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acorneau
May 27, 2009, 6:13 PM
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I have a series of 8 pictures (ganked off the net) of a guy climbing a sandstone crack, he falls, first piece pops, second pops, third starts to hold but the rope is too slack to do much. Luckily the last pic is the guy smiling and looking at one of the cams that ripped out.
Not a bottom-up zipper, but the closest thing I've got, if you're interested.
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agdavis
May 27, 2009, 6:14 PM
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acorneau wrote: I have a series of 8 pictures (ganked off the net) of a guy climbing a sandstone crack, he falls, first piece pops, second pops, third starts to hold but the rope is too slack to do much. Luckily the last pic is the guy smiling and looking at one of the cams that ripped out. Not a bottom-up zipper, but the closest thing I've got, if you're interested.
yes, i would love to see those! can you add them to the thread?
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AntinJ
May 27, 2009, 6:14 PM
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This gets the heart pumping: (4:56)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZ8yL4uSl6Y
This is not technically "zippering", but a lot of his gear pulls. I heard this was staged, but I don't want to spread rumors.
RIP DANO.
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spikeddem
May 27, 2009, 6:15 PM
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agdavis wrote: acorneau wrote: I have a series of 8 pictures (ganked off the net) of a guy climbing a sandstone crack, he falls, first piece pops, second pops, third starts to hold but the rope is too slack to do much. Luckily the last pic is the guy smiling and looking at one of the cams that ripped out. Not a bottom-up zipper, but the closest thing I've got, if you're interested. yes, i would love to see those! can you add them to the thread?
You did not ask for what you think you asked for. 
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spikeddem
May 27, 2009, 6:16 PM
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AntinJ wrote: This gets the heart pumping: (4:56) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZ8yL4uSl6Y This is not technically "zippering", but a lot of his gear pulls. I heard this was staged, but I don't want to spread rumors. RIP DANO.
Of course it was staged . . .
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fxgranite
May 27, 2009, 6:20 PM
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AntinJ wrote: This gets the heart pumping: (4:56) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZ8yL4uSl6Y This is not technically "zippering", but a lot of his gear pulls. I heard this was staged, but I don't want to spread rumors. RIP DANO.
Absolutely staged. I think one of the Masters of Stone videos (V?) shows Dano compromising the gear. I think it was the slings.
Still needed balls the size of Alaska though
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spikeddem
May 27, 2009, 6:24 PM
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spikeddem wrote: agdavis wrote: acorneau wrote: I have a series of 8 pictures (ganked off the net) of a guy climbing a sandstone crack, he falls, first piece pops, second pops, third starts to hold but the rope is too slack to do much. Luckily the last pic is the guy smiling and looking at one of the cams that ripped out. Not a bottom-up zipper, but the closest thing I've got, if you're interested. yes, i would love to see those! can you add them to the thread? You did not ask for what you think you asked for.
Also, if that is what you want, check out the Committed trailer, here.
Check out 0:37-0:45
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AntinJ
May 27, 2009, 6:26 PM
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haha - you beat me to it. Great minds think alike.
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clews
May 27, 2009, 6:34 PM
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look up some videos of dan osman on youtube. There's a clip of him somewhere that shows 6 or 7 pieces popping before one holds.
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acorneau
May 27, 2009, 6:46 PM
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agdavis wrote: yes, i would love to see those! can you add them to the thread?
They're all above the upload size limit, so I'll see what I can do to get them posted up soon.
Edit: not the most elegant, but here they are:
http://gallery.me.com/acorneau/100003
(This post was edited by acorneau on May 27, 2009, 7:04 PM)
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shoo
May 27, 2009, 7:02 PM
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Successive gear pulling is not the same thing as zippering. Zippering occurs from the bottom up. Gear pulling is the top down. They are caused by two different problems. The Dan Osman video is irrelevant.
Zippering is caused when the rope is weighted from above, the lower pieces are not multi-directional, and the resulting pull of the rope is outward due to placements and / or the belayer not being directly underneath the weighted piece or out of line with the weighted rope. This generally starts with the bottom piece popping, and moves its way up, though it can also start with with middle pieces.
Successive gear pulling is usually caused by poor gear placement. The leader falls, and the pieces pop out one at a time from the top down.
Edit: My description of zippering is difficult to read. Someone else have a better way of 'splaining it?
(This post was edited by shoo on May 27, 2009, 7:06 PM)
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rogue10186
May 27, 2009, 7:35 PM
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Shit! That cam looks destroyed... anybody know the details on that?
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gimmeslack
May 27, 2009, 7:44 PM
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rogue10186 wrote: Shit! That cam looks destroyed... anybody know the details on that?
Trango splitter?
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ShibbyShane
May 27, 2009, 9:08 PM
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Damn. The video says the climb is "The Tombstone" at Moab, but that's a formation, not a specific route. Anyone know which route she's on? Looks sick...
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spikeddem
May 28, 2009, 3:12 AM
Post #20 of 21
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shoo wrote: Successive gear pulling is not the same thing as zippering. Zippering occurs from the bottom up. Gear pulling is the top down. They are caused by two different problems. The Dan Osman video is irrelevant. Zippering is caused when the rope is weighted from above, the lower pieces are not multi-directional, and the resulting pull of the rope is outward due to placements and / or the belayer not being directly underneath the weighted piece or out of line with the weighted rope. This generally starts with the bottom piece popping, and moves its way up, though it can also start with with middle pieces. Successive gear pulling is usually caused by poor gear placement. The leader falls, and the pieces pop out one at a time from the top down. Edit: My description of zippering is difficult to read. Someone else have a better way of 'splaining it?
This is correct.
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gimmeslack
May 28, 2009, 8:33 AM
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Correct. See:
http://books.google.com/books?id=O_SNr4LPdUQC&pg=PA260&lpg=PA260&dq=climbing+zipper+effect&source=bl&ots=5SLo0AciuC&sig=i8wuxPhLX-JgK8tIxvoTenNmp7Q&hl=en&ei=LUseSurcF53Itge2itXsAw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=8#PPA264,M2
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