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colatownkid
Jun 30, 2009, 4:01 PM
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welle wrote: Yeah, those one pitch climbs in the uberfall are pretty much all TR-d even lower graded ones. But this Sunday I saw a big party set up a TR on the first pitch of Middle Earth - very inconsiderate, methink. Note, I didn't say rules - I said etiquette, just nice things you do for which you get reciprocated with the same courtesy so everyone has a good time. And Colatownkid, you and your wife will probably be alright midweek anyway, all I wanted to say is that the foreword of the book is a pretty fascinating read especially around the camp. Oh yeah, the book tells you where to camp and where to get water ;)
Buy a Williams guide to the Trapps. Got it. 
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coolcat83
Jun 30, 2009, 4:09 PM
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I was in the Gunks yesterday and talked to a ranger byt the rockfall, he said that the chicks fledged so that's not an issue anymore, and they were trundling some loose stuff and hoping to have the rockfall section open by the evening. Perhaps someone else can confirm that it happened. The routes there however may have changed a lot or not exist from what i've seen...might want to put up a few FA's while you are there
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qtm
Jun 30, 2009, 4:28 PM
Post #28 of 44
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welle wrote: But this Sunday I saw a big party set up a TR on the first pitch of Middle Earth - very inconsiderate, methink.
If the TR group all want to take a turn on the pitch, it's not much different from several groups who want to lead/clean the route. Probably faster. But either way, they're all there before you, so you'd have to wait your turn anyway.
Did you walk up to them and ask if you could lead through? If not, how do you know that they were being inconsiderate?
If we're TRing with a large group, we're more than happy to let a party lead through. Or rap on our ropes. All anyone has to do is ask.
And on many occasions, we've walked up to unused ropes, and asked if we could lead through and were told "yes, sorry, go right ahead" as they moved their ropes to the side or pulled them altogether. Unless you ask, you don't know if they're considerate or not.
That said, yes, I usually just give the big TR parties a pass, there are plenty of other routes to do.
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bill413
Jun 30, 2009, 4:55 PM
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The multiuse area has a port-a-john. No water. During the weekends it's pretty full, but coming in midweek should be fine.
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welle
Jun 30, 2009, 5:43 PM
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there were only two of them, leader just setting the top rope at the top of the P1, when asked if they had more seconds, they said they were going to be there for a while as they had a big party (essentially saying no to lead through). so just two of them reserving the route for the rest of their party not seen anywhere close. Not a big deal, we hopped on something else - just something that I wouldn't do.
Anyway, my point was not to wag my finger and pass judgments, as most especially visiting climbers don't mean ill and do things that raise brows unintentionally. Reading DW guidebook, helps avoiding some faux pas and embarrassments or confrontations, as some regulars could be very vocal and not as mellow as qtm...
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retr2327
Jun 30, 2009, 6:11 PM
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Pretty sure I saw the same party, as we were up there on Sunday afternoon also. They had six or seven people, and only one leader at the grade, so were setting up and using several pitches at once. I don't really have a problem with that; people have to learn somehow, and their leader did a nice job of keeping everyone safe and entertained. And it's not like Middle Earth is that high on the list of "must do" climbs in the Gunks; it's pleasant enough, but no High E.
I wouldn't necessarily take the response "we have a big party" as intended to deny your (unspoken) request to lead through. If there are only two people at the climb (but several more coming soon), they might reasonably have thought you were considering waiting until they were gone, and were just trying to make clear that that wouldn't be happening that soon. If you really want to know if you can lead through, you sometimes might have to ask (you might even have to search out the one leader/knowledgeable person, since the newbies probably wouldn't be in a position to answer).
Live and let live if possible.
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sethg
Jun 30, 2009, 7:40 PM
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I think the most important thing I've learned about the classics at the Gunks is that there are a lot of them, and that you will end up wasting a lot of time waiting if you get too set on doing a particular one on a crowded day. If you walk up to a route and it is occupied, just keep walking! There will be other classics available. And don't be deterred from doing a route because Williams gives it one or two stars instead of three-- a lot of these are classics too!
At the 5.6 grade, for example, two ultraclassics at the Trapps are Shockley's Ceiling and High Exposure. You can wait a long time to get on one of them, and then find out that each one is legendary really for one move. Some people regard the one-star Moonlight to be a superior overall climb. This is just one example, and not meant to denigrate Shockley's or High E (both of which any repeat climber at the Gunks MUST do eventually!). My point is you'll likely have more fun if you just get on something rather than waiting half a day for "the" climb.
(This post was edited by sethg on Jun 30, 2009, 7:42 PM)
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coolcat83
Jun 30, 2009, 7:57 PM
Post #34 of 44
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qtm wrote: coolcat83 wrote: I was in the Gunks yesterday and talked to a ranger byt the rockfall, he said that the chicks fledged so that's not an issue anymore, and they were trundling some loose stuff and hoping to have the rockfall section open by the evening. Perhaps someone else can confirm that it happened. The routes there however may have changed a lot or not exist from what i've seen...might want to put up a few FA's while you are there Just got an email from the GCC: The Mohonk Preserve has announced the end of the Trapps cliff closure The rock fall and nesting peregrine falcon route closure that affected the section of Trapps cliff between, and including the routes Asphodel (5.5) and Bitchy Virgin (5.6) has been lifted. Two young falcons were successfully fledged from the aerie in this area. The compliance of the climbing community was instrumental in this success story. There may still be some loose rock present in this zone, so extra caution should be used when climbing or using the cliff-base climber?s trail in this area. Thank you for your assistance in spreading the word. - The Mohonk Preserve -
Thanks
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robbovius
Jun 30, 2009, 8:24 PM
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Colotownkid, there Are TWO Dick Williams Guidebooks, the Gray is for the Trapps, and the Black (or rather dark maroon, at least mine is) for the Nears and Millbrook. they are being sold thru EMS here in MA. I bought bothn recently, they are definitely worth it.
As fara as restaurants, the mountain brauhaus is nice, and its right on the way to-from New Paltz from the cliffs. in New Paltz, also try Bacchus, and the Gilded Otter.
make sure you stop into Rock and Snow, its a great store, with great people...and a sweet display case full of old timey gear.
I can't really add much to the lists you've already got. maybe, Baby, @ 5.6 has a sweet crack climb for P1.
wear longish pants. there are chiggers at the gunks and you will wind up with bites on your legs if you sit in the grass at the topouts.
have fun!
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jul 1, 2009, 2:45 PM)
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mushroom
Jun 30, 2009, 9:22 PM
Post #36 of 44
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for the weekend days:
http://mcis.western.edu/~jpeterson/me/gunksclassics.html
(uncrowded gunks classics)
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boymeetsrock
Jun 30, 2009, 9:27 PM
Post #37 of 44
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In reply to: Wrist (5.6) This route has a spectacular and somewhat frightening overhang on the second pitch. Start on Arch to get an extra crux.
One of my first leads. What an amazing 2nd pitch. Coming out of the roof corner onto the face was an experience I have not found elsewhere. And little traffic on this one in my experience.
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curt
Jun 30, 2009, 11:25 PM
Post #38 of 44
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Birdland has two very different pitches, each at 5.8.
Both are excellent, too. I bet I had done the first pitch of that thing 10 times before I bothered to have a look at the second pitch--which is great. I have no idea why I always rapped off after the first pitch before.
Curt
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coolcat83
Jul 1, 2009, 12:04 AM
Post #39 of 44
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robbovius wrote: Coolcat, there Are TWO Dick Williams Guidebooks, the Gray is for the Trapps, and the Black (or rather dark maroon, at least mine is) for the Nears and Millbrook. they are being sold thru EMS here in MA. I bought bothn recently, they are definitely worth it.
uhm, ok, maybe you meant to reply to the OP? The gunks is my primary climbing area and has been for years, I have the books, i didn't mention a book in my post just that the closed areas are open.
(This post was edited by coolcat83 on Jul 1, 2009, 12:04 AM)
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Gmburns2000
Jul 1, 2009, 12:52 AM
Post #40 of 44
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curt wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Birdland has two very different pitches, each at 5.8. Both are excellent, too. I bet I had done the first pitch of that thing 10 times before I bothered to have a look at the second pitch--which is great. I have no idea why I always rapped off after the first pitch before. Curt
I think most people do that. I was lucky enough to have a partner who knew the 2nd pitch was nice.
Gonna go back in a couple of weeks to tackle the 5.9 finish. Can't wait.
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hansundfritz
Jul 1, 2009, 1:37 PM
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Sorry to chime in twice, but I'm not sure anyone mentioned:
CCK 5.7 -- great exposure
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retr2327
Jul 1, 2009, 2:44 PM
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Better yet, do 1st pitch of E.D., then walk over 20 ft. to do CCK Direct.
Don't fall on the direct start off the ledge (a good belay may keep you out of trouble, but don't count on it). Then go straight up to the flake rather than traversing out left and back; then either exit left under the roof (harder, great moves) or take regular exit out right.
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robbovius
Jul 1, 2009, 2:46 PM
Post #43 of 44
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coolcat83 wrote: robbovius wrote: Coolcat, there Are TWO Dick Williams Guidebooks, the Gray is for the Trapps, and the Black (or rather dark maroon, at least mine is) for the Nears and Millbrook. they are being sold thru EMS here in MA. I bought bothn recently, they are definitely worth it. uhm, ok, maybe you meant to reply to the OP? The gunks is my primary climbing area and has been for years, I have the books, i didn't mention a book in my post just that the closed areas are open.
yeah, My B, meant the OP. thanks.
I was there over last weekend, the closed areas still had tapes across all the trails up from the carriage road.
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marc801
Jul 1, 2009, 3:29 PM
Post #44 of 44
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robbovius wrote: Colotownkid, there Are TWO Dick Williams Guidebooks, the Gray is for the Trapps, and the Black (or rather dark maroon, at least mine is) for the Nears and Millbrook.
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