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SpasticClimber
Jul 10, 2009, 10:47 PM
Post #26 of 29
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Registered: Jun 24, 2009
Posts: 14
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The static is good enough for an ideal situation, but what if its not an ideal situation? What if you can't see the climber? Or what if the climb has a slight traverse to it that forces you to give the climber more slack? Or what if you are like me and really tight TR belays annoy you? These are some things that make me prefer a low stretch rope. Ultimately, it comes down to what you are really looking for. The cheapest option is static. The most ideal is the "gym" or low stretch. The most versatile is the dynamic. In the end, all three choices are acceptable, but not necessarily equal.
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benmoreite
Jul 10, 2009, 10:49 PM
Post #27 of 29
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Registered: Dec 17, 2006
Posts: 64
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qtm wrote: That a fall on TR with slack is the same as a lead fall? That's true. As for the forces, that still holds true for static ropes that aren't climbing ropes and subject to certifications. Not that the OP was considering using rope from HoDe, but it shows why its a good reason not to climb on non-climbing ropes.
I'm pretty much a n00b, but I'm pretty sure this is untrue. A TR fall with slack is not the same as a lead fall. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but:
Fall factor is length of fall divided by rope out. Let's say you are leading and clip a bolt at the 40 ft. mark. You climb 6 feet past the bolt and fall. You fall 12 feet on 46 feet of rope. 12/46 = FF.26
If you were to TR the same route using the bolts as anchors, you would climb up 40 ft. Assuming you belayer is a jackass and lets you climb the last 6 feet without taking in any slack, and you lean back at the anchors, you would fall 6 ft, on 46 feet of rope. 6/46 = FF.13.
The TR fall has half the fall factor as the lead fall. And that is only if you take the TR fall at the anchor. Assuming you are lower on the route, there is even more rope out for the same 6 ft. fall, meaning the fall factor is even lower.
For what it is worth, NOLS does a lot of top roping and uses static ropes on many of their climbs. As I understand it, the main reason is durability.
-Ben
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milesenoell
Jul 10, 2009, 11:29 PM
Post #28 of 29
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Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156
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As has already been pointed out, static isn't without any stretch, and lower stretch can be desirable at times. In gyms, with so many falls happening closer to the ground, lower stretch ropes reduce the groundfall risk a bit. Thus, "gym ropes" offer a compromise. Soft enough to be safe, stiff enough to keep you off the ground.
(This post was edited by milesenoell on Jul 10, 2009, 11:30 PM)
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msweet1985
Jul 16, 2009, 5:04 AM
Post #29 of 29
(1040 views)
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Registered: Jul 1, 2009
Posts: 7
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TR on static sounds lame. I wouldn't want to join you and hop on your rope if we were cragging at a TR area. Go turn a couple tricks and get a little more money for a dynamic. Or get a half rope. Or look on ebay.
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