So here's my question (which probably should be in the clueless-and-confused section): I want to start doing some of Colorado's 14ers and other mountaineering routes as technical climbs. Mind you, I'm just now beginning my research on this... so I feel in no way mentally or physically prepared. But I've done a few 14ers and can climb about 5.10 sport and 5.8 trad on a good day, so I'm humbly thinking of mountaineering.

For example, to start with the Inwood Arete on Quandary is an easy 5.4, then there is the Ellingwood Arete on Crestone Needle (a solid 5.7 from what I understand) and the Petit Grepon in RMNP.

So onto my question, which is multifold:

1. First and foremost, I need a good mountaineering/ alpine climbing book (mind you, Freedom of the Hills doesn't cover enough specifics, such as length and size of rope(s)).

2. Alas, rope: length, size, two or one? Twin ropes or double ropes?

3. Shoes: for winter ice/ couloir climbing, mountaineering boots obviously (and since I'm not doing anything outrageous yet, my Asolo's will do, since they take crampons) but for the summer? Do I hike in in my hiking boots and switch to rock shoes ones I start the technical part of the climb? Will approach shoes be enough for both the hike and the climb?

4. Considering we're talking about climbing at relatively high altitudes here, time is of great importance: how much time should I estimate for climbing, say, 500 feet of a 5.4.

Have I mentioned that I need a really good book? :)

Thanks to anybody who's got some experience in this and is willing to share their hard-earned knowledge.

If you're specifically interested in the CO 14'ers, I'd recommend the Gerry Roach guide.

Also, there's a plethora of websites dedicated to climbing 14'ers.

A lot of what you're asking will come down to personal preference. Shoes: I climb 5.easy in sticky tennies and 5.hard in my climbing shoes. I've been climbing mostly on twins, but sometimes that varies depending on the availability/difficulty of the descent.

And it will take you 1 hour and 37 minutes to climb 500 feet of 5.4.

I'd suggest one of two options: Find someone experienced with alpine climbing and go out with them, or pick a route that is below your level with an easy option to bail and go have fun. I looked for climbs with fixed belay stations for my first alpine climbs so I knew that rapping the route was always an option, just as a safety net.

Most of those questions are about gear choices. Not many books cover specific gear. I would recommend using a book like "Freedom," along with others, for technical skills. And the internet for gear research. Good books: "Alpine Climbing, techniques to take you higher," Extreme Alpinism, and Ice and Mixed climbing. Those have taken me pretty far, along with Freedom. There is a ridiculous amount of info on the web, but you just need to know how to sort through the crap to find the good stuff.

Thanks, this helps. I'm just surprised that there isn't one good expedition/ alpine/ mixed... whatever term you want to use for this kind of mountaineering endeavor... book out there. 'Cause, believe me, I've looked. Most of the lit on this encompasses personal accounts... and that's entertaining but not instructional enough. But I think I'm too late starting this in order to write one :( I'm sure it will turn out to be the same story as with the cool new belay glasses that Bachar swears by: I THOUGHT OF IT FIRST, DAMN IT!!!!

Here's a related question though: on what basis do you decide on doing a climb with a single, twin or double rope? Do you base your decision on what others use on a particular climb? If not, what's your method of assessment?

Remember that FOTH is not only a highly informative handbook, it is also the TEXTBOOK for The Mountaineers and their ventures in the NW and their schools. It has tons of information, but at the same time there's plenty of information that is missed as it is taught in conjunction with the book. Things that you only get from being shown from an experienced person.

First of all, the CMC is not an "experienced guide service" and the instructors are not professionals. All of the classes are taught by volunteers who are members of the club.

I'm curious - what's your experience level with regard to 3rd and 4th class routes in the mountains?

A big part of doing technical alpine routes is route finding, and that is a skill you can hone before you break out the rope and the gear.

I'm wondering if you aren't just over-thinking this. Seriously, spend time in the mountains. Go every free weekend you can. Learn the weather patterns in the mountains near you. Learn what gear the rock takes well. Learn what you need to be comfortable overnight. Learn how to navigate. Practice various rescue and self rescue techniques.

I recently picked up "The Mountaineering Handbook" by Craig Connally. It seems to go beyond Freedom of the Hills and in some cases contradicts "traditional" methods. Also more specific to alpine than FOTH.