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go_dyno
Jul 14, 2009, 8:42 AM
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I have been out of rock climbing for several years (former 5.10b Trad Guy) due to broken back and have stayed on ice the last 4 years, but ready to get back to rock and my feet are WEAK, so I am looking for some decent not completely noob shoes, but comfy for WEAK ASS feet. Thinking LS Nago...I have low volume feet and own all La Sportiva or Kayland footwear.
Suggestions?
Thanks
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graemesmith
Jul 14, 2009, 4:43 PM
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Probably a lot of stiffer shoes that would work fine. I have Scarpa Veloce´s can say they are pretty good. How about just going to a local store and trying stuff?
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Carnage
Jul 14, 2009, 7:50 PM
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i climb on evolve pontas. I broke my foot 4 months ago and the shoes have been plenty stiff to support my weak ass foot.
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go_dyno
Jul 14, 2009, 8:44 PM
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I have been trying them on and thought I'd just ask here to see if there were any serious pros/cons or shoes I was overlooking since there seems to be a much larger selection of torture styled shoes than comfy shoes.
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granite_grrl
Jul 15, 2009, 11:48 AM
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Why not get some softer shoes and get that foot strength back?
FWIW - When I came back after having ot take 6 months off I had to go through an adjustment period for my feet to work in climbing shoes again. I had lost all the calluses and my foot was no longer broken in. I started with my first pair of climbing shoes on the home wall and worked up from there.
I didn't really notice an issue with the foot itself not being strong enough though, and this is with wearing Anasazis and Katanas. I was sport climbing and you just don't stand around on your feet that much. I did have to get my feet back into shape when I decided to do more trad again this year, but even that didn't take too long.
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andrewG
Jul 15, 2009, 2:24 PM
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Might want to try on LS mythos and womens miura. I have a low volume foot and the womens miura fits my foot well. Not as comfy as the mythos, but they perform better as a sport shoe. If you want to build foot strength in comfort you could go with 5.10 moccasyms or evolve defy's.
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SpasticClimber
Jul 16, 2009, 12:06 AM
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I have the 5.10 Galileos. They are based off the Anasazi; however, they are designed to be a less intense, more comfortable, and more supportive model. Also, less expensive.  They are pretty stiff with great edging. I have no useful information on sportivas, but i thought i would toss that out anyway
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coolcat83
Jul 16, 2009, 12:25 AM
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I have LS nago's for my comfy trad shoes and like them, fairly supportive but not totally devoid of sensitivity.
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go_dyno
Jul 16, 2009, 2:52 AM
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Thanks All
I will try on some chica Miuras and the Galileos and probably go with the Nagos if none of those rock my world.
Granite Girl great advice, but after being bedridden for several years pre-experimental life saving surgery the atrophy is a little beyond the norm...lost 30 lbs of muscle and no its not coming back quickly, but the tendonitis and muscle tears are coming quickly. I've been on ice climbing the last few years and am trying to step up my work out to rock (sport for now and hopefully trad again someday) , but its painfully slow.
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mwelly007
Aug 18, 2009, 4:14 PM
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5.10 Anasazi!
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saltydog
Aug 18, 2009, 5:17 PM
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go_dyno wrote: Thanks All I will try on some chica Miuras and the Galileos and probably go with the Nagos if none of those rock my world. Granite Girl great advice, but after being bedridden for several years pre-experimental life saving surgery the atrophy is a little beyond the norm...lost 30 lbs of muscle and no its not coming back quickly, but the tendonitis and muscle tears are coming quickly. I've been on ice climbing the last few years and am trying to step up my work out to rock (sport for now and hopefully trad again someday) , but its painfully slow.
good on ya!!
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Neel
Aug 19, 2009, 3:41 AM
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SpasticClimber wrote: I have the 5.10 Galileos. They are based off the Anasazi; however, they are designed to be a less intense, more comfortable, and more supportive model. Also, less expensive. They are pretty stiff with great edging. I have no useful information on sportivas, but i thought i would toss that out anyway
I'll 2nd on Galileos - they're supportive, and comfortable compared to Anasazis. When i first got them i felt that they weren't sensitive enough and i was a bit disappointed, but once they broke in, i was pretty happy.
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asiaclimber
Aug 19, 2009, 4:25 AM
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He has a low volume foot. Galileo's are larger volume shoes. Oh and the Muira womens and mens are the same shoe aside from color and the femal version has a nice lining. I personally like the color of the women's Muira better then the men's.
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USnavy
Aug 20, 2009, 10:16 AM
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Evolv Defy's
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Sublimerr
Aug 20, 2009, 3:55 PM
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5.10 Moccasym. They are incredibly comfortable and last forever.
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kennoyce
Aug 20, 2009, 4:03 PM
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I'd also suggest the moc's except that they offer no foot support whatsoever. They are my favorite shoe though.
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ryanb
Aug 20, 2009, 4:20 PM
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Try the katanas too...more comfortable then the muira kind of like the gallileo is to the anasazi.
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dreday3000
Aug 20, 2009, 4:28 PM
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Seems to me most people are recommending sport shoes. And far enough as the OP subject line asks for sport shoes.
That said, If you're gonna be doing some trad I would recommend the new Sportiva TC Pro. Just picked up a pair and think they're awesome.
Great for all day multipitch but pretty precise edging. The toe box is prefect for cracks too! Plus they got just the tinest bit of a hightop to protect your ankles if you get into anything gnarly.
Check em out http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/861
(This post was edited by dreday3000 on Aug 20, 2009, 5:19 PM)
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munky
Aug 21, 2009, 4:39 PM
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Yea man! I'm climbing on them too. I sized them a bit loose for alpine slogs but they still perform great
Did you ever send Boomerang? It seems like every time i go climbing at the New I find a new "project", the list keeps growing. It's about time to dedicate a few days to some of these routes before I'm too weak to ever get back up to the anchors. I hear South Nuttal has some serious cracks. did the variation to Entertainer the last time I climbed and if you haven't done that its worth the tick. Also, been eyeing a line right as you come down the Miner's ladders to go to the Cirque (that 2 bolt arete to splitter finger crack). It's been calling my name for awhile now. Damn, too many routes to think about! Anyways, we need to get out and climb again DRe!
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