|
rockreaver
Jul 27, 2009, 5:21 PM
Post #1 of 64
(13358 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2009
Posts: 187
|
I'm just curious what you carry on your "last resort" biner? This week I climbed with a few guys that showed me what they carried on theirs. Simple stuff for the most part. Prussik cord, Tibloc Ascender, plastic pulley's...
When doing a multi-pitch climb what do you make sure you don't leave the ground without?
If you have a photo that would be cool. Sometimes the jargon/slang terms for things can be lost in translation. I remember reading a catfight here recently where someone acted like a klemheist was an autoblock and such...
So what's on your "biner of last resort"?
|
|
|
|
|
Skidemon27
Jul 27, 2009, 5:30 PM
Post #2 of 64
(13331 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 15, 2007
Posts: 232
|
prussic,tibloc, depending on the day a beer.
but usually never ever leave the ground without my, atc guide,prussic, tribloc, and a PAS.....even on my top rope and not trad...cause u never know when u wanna clip in and hangout (smoke,picture, or enjoy the veiw.)
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Jul 27, 2009, 5:31 PM
Post #3 of 64
(13328 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
rockreaver wrote: So what's on your "biner of last resort"?
I keep a small locker with a Tibloc on my harness all the time. I'll add a 48" sling with 2 biners when I'm climbing outdoors.
Other than that, I usually carry way more lockers than I really need.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Jul 27, 2009, 5:42 PM
Post #4 of 64
(13308 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
3 prussiks. A spare belay plate if I'm with a n00b.
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Jul 27, 2009, 5:58 PM
Post #5 of 64
(13273 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
4 prussiks, 1 pulley, knife.
|
|
|
|
|
debaser655321
Jul 27, 2009, 6:01 PM
Post #6 of 64
(13261 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 20, 2004
Posts: 60
|
prussic, tibloc, rap ring, knife/bottle opener, all on a leaver 'biner.
|
|
|
|
|
irregularpanda
Jul 27, 2009, 6:03 PM
Post #7 of 64
(13257 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364
|
My brain and a plan of attack.
|
|
|
|
|
squishy654
Jul 27, 2009, 6:22 PM
Post #8 of 64
(13231 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2008
Posts: 137
|
One pink tri-cam...
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Jul 27, 2009, 6:31 PM
Post #9 of 64
(13213 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
Depends where and what I'm on.
On my leaver biner is my nut tool, if need be it can be transferred to another biner if I got to bail. Two 5' looped pieces of webbing are girth hitched to my gear sling with a rap ring on one. I also carry two prusiks made out of 7mm cord that reside on their own superfly locker, they too can be transferred to another biner if I'm desperate for a locker. A small knife and a pair of leather "mechanix' gloves are always with me.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Jul 27, 2009, 6:34 PM
Post #11 of 64
(13205 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
acorneau wrote: I keep a small locker with a Tibloc on my harness all the time. I'll add a 48" sling with 2 biners when I'm climbing outdoors.
Have to ask, what do/would you do with Tibloc indoors?
|
|
|
|
|
time2clmb
Jul 27, 2009, 6:35 PM
Post #12 of 64
(13202 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2007
Posts: 473
|
Practice self rescue and you will realize that you don't really need a pulley or tiblocs ect. 2 lengths of cordalette will do just fine and slings will do if you don't have those. The main thing is to practice with no specialized stuff that you would normally have with you anyways.
|
|
|
|
|
rockreaver
Jul 27, 2009, 7:21 PM
Post #13 of 64
(13150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2009
Posts: 187
|
I'm thinking of just carrying a WWII style pineapple grenade. Presently I'm not able to think of a problem that won't solve.
- Need a hold? -solved-
- Hate your partner? -solved-
- Need to make sure you don't feel it tomorrow? -solved-
- Fun joke on your belay drop that from 100' up? -solved-
- Want to climb but a snake is at the start? -solved-
- The SAR team cannot find you. -solved-
- Cannot get your beer open? -solved-
- Tired of conga line at the base? -solved-
I mean frankly there are few problems that a good pineapple frag won't solve. 
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Jul 27, 2009, 7:44 PM
Post #14 of 64
(13111 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
On "last resort" bail 'biner, there's a prussik, shortish cord-o, rap ring, spare ATC, and knife.
On multi-pitch, I carry an ATC-G and a cord-o on my harness. I put a headlamp in my pocket if there is even a remote possibility that I'll need it.
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Jul 27, 2009, 7:57 PM
Post #15 of 64
(13087 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
Emergency 'biner: tibloc, rap ring, length of supertape (works for anchor replacement and/or bailing), knife. I usually have a couple extra biners, as well.
|
|
|
|
|
chadnsc
Jul 27, 2009, 8:25 PM
Post #16 of 64
(13046 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449
|
Knife
Prussic Loop
Wind Shirt
Energy Gel
Insulin
Syringes
Blood Sugar Meter (I'm diabetic)
Now this stuff isn't all on a biner mind you. With the exception of the knife and prussic everything is stored in a second gutted chalk bag with a zippered closure.
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Jul 27, 2009, 8:27 PM
Post #17 of 64
(13040 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
healyje wrote: acorneau wrote: I keep a small locker with a Tibloc on my harness all the time. I'll add a 48" sling with 2 biners when I'm climbing outdoors. Have to ask, what do/would you do with Tibloc indoors?
I use it occasionally while route-setting. If I'm high on a ladder and it's getting shaky, I'll toss it on a nearby rope (along with my Purcell prussic) and snug it up, just in case I lose my balance.
[edit for spelling]
(This post was edited by acorneau on Jul 27, 2009, 8:31 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Jul 27, 2009, 8:32 PM
Post #18 of 64
(13024 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
I don't carry an oh shit biner. I do carry a harness knife. I'll have a headlamp on me someplace, if I reckon I might need it. More stuff, goal, season and weather dependant.
Rarely bother with prusik cords (redundant) for free climbing - I carry slings, good enough in a pinch.
Don't own a tibloc and don't see the reason for one.
Plastic pulleys? For free climbing? I can't imagine ....
Is an empty oh shit biner indicative of some fundamental lacking on the climber's part?
Or does it show she has her SHIT TOGETHER, instead?
Quien sabe???
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Jul 27, 2009, 8:39 PM
Post #19 of 64
(13015 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
for those carrying a tibloc, be mindful that the tibloc works better with thick carabiners, the thinner ones can allow the device to slip and shred your line.
i carry a OP rap ring and a sterling hollow block (prusik) on a small locker on the back of my harness. i wouldnt, though, call this my 'oh shit' biner- rather, just sort of a utlility biner that carries a couple of items that are nice to have.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Jul 27, 2009, 8:44 PM
Post #20 of 64
(13010 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
rockreaver wrote: I'm thinking of just carrying a WWII style pineapple grenade. Presently I'm not able to think of a problem that won't solve. - Need a hold? -solved- - Hate your partner? -solved- - Need to make sure you don't feel it tomorrow? -solved- - Fun joke on your belay drop that from 100' up? -solved- - Want to climb but a snake is at the start? -solved- - The SAR team cannot find you. -solved- - Cannot get your beer open? -solved- - Tired of conga line at the base? -solved- I mean frankly there are few problems that a good pineapple frag won't solve.
Hmm...
Flat tire on way to crag... no.
Forgot bowl for dog's water... nope.
Core-shot rope... definitely not.
Forgot lunch... maybe.
 I like this game!
|
|
|
|
|
rgold
Jul 27, 2009, 10:12 PM
Post #21 of 64
(12963 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804
|
I have two small prussik loops and a small sharp knife in the zipper pocket of my chalk bag. I wouldn't necessarily carry that much on every climb, but having them in my chalk bag guarantees I will have them when I need them. On longer routes, I add a Petzl E-light.
If the route entails having the second carry a small pack (another discussion, I know) then there will be some extra webbing and a rap ring or two at the bottom.
I think a tibloc is a poor substitute for a prussik loop, which is more versatile. And plastic pulley wheels? These won't even work on most modern biners, and are of doubtful utility even on an oval. Personally, I think that anything that encourages a party to think that they might succeed in hauling a climber up a rock pitch may be a bad idea.
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Jul 27, 2009, 10:43 PM
Post #22 of 64
(12931 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
j_ung wrote: rockreaver wrote: I'm thinking of just carrying a WWII style pineapple grenade. Presently I'm not able to think of a problem that won't solve. - Need a hold? -solved- - Hate your partner? -solved- - Need to make sure you don't feel it tomorrow? -solved- - Fun joke on your belay drop that from 100' up? -solved- - Want to climb but a snake is at the start? -solved- - The SAR team cannot find you. -solved- - Cannot get your beer open? -solved- - Tired of conga line at the base? -solved- I mean frankly there are few problems that a good pineapple frag won't solve. Hmm... Flat tire on way to crag... no. Forgot bowl for dog's water... nope. Core-shot rope... definitely not. Forgot lunch... maybe. I like this game!
Flat tire on way to crag...Isn't there a mythbusters episode about explosively inflating a tire? 
Forgot bowl for dog's water... Excavate a depression for water at the base of the crag.
Core-shot rope... Convinces another party to share/give their rope.
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Jul 27, 2009, 11:12 PM
Post #23 of 64
(12913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
time2clmb wrote: Practice self rescue and you will realize that you don't really need a pulley or tiblocs ect. 2 lengths of cordalette will do just fine and slings will do if you don't have those. The main thing is to practice with no specialized stuff that you would normally have with you anyways.
You don't, but the added speed of a pulley makes up for its weight, since rescue takes a fuck long time anyways.
|
|
|
|
|
mtnkid85
Jul 27, 2009, 11:31 PM
Post #24 of 64
(12900 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2005
Posts: 221
|
I carry a small locker, with a small trango knife, and a tibloc on it. Used both more than once this season. No prussik- in a pinch my slings will do the job.
|
|
|
|
|
timh
Jul 27, 2009, 11:39 PM
Post #25 of 64
(12893 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2006
Posts: 24
|
In reply to: I'm thinking of just carrying a WWII style pineapple grenade. Presently I'm not able to think of a problem that won't solve.
Might to add flailing on a thin stance and grabbing the grenade as pro....problem solved
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
